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Can someone tell me what is the correct tension for the front driveshaft retaining nut? i know its bloody tight, but the Gregorys I have doesnt want to tell me how much, just do it up to specs without giving the specs and ive looked in the Tech manual on here and cant seem to find it either. On an L series please

Only quoting from memory but it is about 180 ftlbs, but doubt your torque wrench goes that far. I use 80kg on 500mm. That is 80kg jumping on 500mm to 600mm 3/4" breaker bar to undo them so just do same to do up I have a piece of water pipe that slides over my 3/4" breaker bar for variable extension

as tight as u can get it haha, then sum more!

Your right about my tension wrench Steptoe,only goes to 150 ft-lbs. but no matter, I was only curious as to what the torque should be.Like your tecnical method and if I need to use it myself hope you dont mind.

This has been covered before. They need to be supertight. I'm about 6'1" and 130kg. I really push them with a breaker bar and extension pipe and pull them up to the next split pin hole that I think I can get them without bustin the whole show. If you don't get them tight, they will make a noise and probably stuff up your cone washer etc.

yes and dont get tempted to undo the nut even slightly to fit a split pin in a hole..its bloody dangerous.

So i used the method of 130kgs over 150cm pipe on a 3/4 inch breaker bar and got it tight enough to stop the funny noise it was making, thanks for the advice, I was a bit worried about breaking something. I have broken things before without trying this hard. Anyone ever broken something doing these up?

Busdriver wrote:Anyone ever broken something doing these up?

Gee told me he went through 3 new breaker bars til get got hold of a larger unit - thanks to his wife

I remember reading that Andrew T striped the thread off the shaft - please corrent me if I'm wrong AT.

Cheers

Bennie

Whoa there gutzits , 180 ft/lbs ?

My 87 L factory WSM quotes 145 ft/lbs or 196 Nm or 20 kg-meters .
I cant remember what my 1/2 " drive torque wrench goes up to and I don't use it anyway . Thats what the 1/2" drive breaker bar is for .
I do mine up until it feels right then line up the slots in the castelated nut with the drilling in the CV joint . Always line up tightening , the WSM says 145 and can go another 30 deg rotation to line things up .

The bearings in these hubs are deep groove annular contact type so its not like you are pre loading tapered roller bearings .

If you use the correct sized split pin I doubt very much the nut will shear it through both sides .
Also under the jesus nut (hellicopter talk) is a thick slightly conical spring washer . Even done half right there's no excuses for getting it wrong .

I've had the shafts in and out of my RX three times for joints/boots and never had a problem yet , still running the bearings and seals it came with so they've something more than 51K on them .

A .

El_Freddo wrote: I remember reading that Andrew T striped the thread off the shaft - please corrent me if I'm wrong AT.

Yes correct, I did do that. I always went by the old "as tight as you can get it" maxim...but I must be stronger than others...or at least heavier as I was standing on the breaker bar when it happened! Now I just go by "as tight as I think the average pussy can get it" - well I pretty much do it by feel now I know what the breaking point is.

Idealy people should go by the factory torque settings and then add abit to account for shitty flogged out washers etc.

I find that 70kg on a 14" shifter always worked for me.

so thats

Moment Nm = Force (weight x g) x length of moment (m)
= 70x9.8x0.4
= 274Nm

I thinks thats heaps, and might explain why AndrewT managed to strip one

and yes never back it off to fit the split pin, just keep tightening it.

My bloke at the CV shop in Toowoomba said they gotta be super tight. So that what I do. Prior to this, I always had trouble with funny noises coming from the wheel. I replaced both cone washers too for new ones fom Subaru. There not that dear.