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I think it is not written in any manuals I have got on how to set number one on TDC on a rebuild or after cambox or heads have been off. Other than get on comp sroke etc...hoping this helps myself and others in the future

It is fine to use the cam timing marks [as opposed to ignition timing marks] to set the belts right and to stuff around sticking a finger in the plug hole and feel the comp coming up but...using correctly tensioned belt.....

I found that to have the timing belt cover off the RHS/drivers side in RH Drive lands/ turbo side - on the EA82 & T and line up one of the four holes of same size in cam belt sprocket line up centrally with the timing cut in the plastic back plate. With the fly or flex plate on TDC I found it is the hole that has the single tiny hole [used for cam belt line up] to its left when looking at it from the front.

Setting up the belts this way allows the dizzy to be checked and/or adjusted to help prevent having dizzy out by 180 degrees or whatever, in theory anyway. Number 1 is in the cap one closest to firewall in my case.



note to self: I used the first option for forums to get it to show here like this on imageshack.us

Steptoe - the easiest way to remember which hole to line up is to use the dowl (spelling?) on the cam gear near the bolts, the hole you need to use is above this...

Don't forget to rotate the CRANKSHAFT one full rotation before setting up the cam belt on the other side. It took me 3 months of playing around to work this one out, I thought the engine was stuffed, but it still ran!

Cheers

Bennie

Never forget this one as it was this step and the description in the Gregories that won me over on the subie engineering when doing the belts many years ago for my brother. I think one manual says only one cam sprocket should have the hole for dowel pin, both sides have one on mine. maybe it s the cam that has the dowel pin difference ?

You mighta missed my point ( or I stuffed up getting msg across) this is for getting TDC on number one for checking dizzy once belts have been done, so the bugger fires first time , I hope.

Provided the cam belts are right the sure fire way is to remove the cam box cover so you can see the rockers on no 1 cylinder .
If you can move the rockers (as in they are unloaded) zero on the flywheel pointer means No 1 TDC .
If you are 360 degrees out on the flywheel/crankshaft the rockers will be loaded up and you won't be able to move them by hand .

It sounds weird but the thing to remember is that the camshafts turn at half crank revs which is why the cam pulleys are larger than the crank ones .

The four stroke cycle is two complete revolutions of the crankshaft or 720 crankshaft degrees (360 x 2) . So for 720 crank degrees the cams (and distributor) turn 360 .

Hatefully Ellie spat a cam belt this morning and people tell me that the tappety noise in 82's is usually mayhem with lose belt tensioners . Fine if you know .

Cheers A .