Bearing tool
- subybrumby
- Junior Member
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
Bearing tool
Hi guys, I am in the process of exchanging rear half axles in the back of my brumby. The large notched screw that holds the rear bearing needs a special tool. Like this ...its a half inch drive socket
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Now this has probably been discussed before, but I've got a bloke gonna try and make something up for me out of pipe. What have others done to get this off...I used a punch on the nut on the donor hubs and found this nut to be very soft and easily damaged.
Any tricks or ideas other than what I'm doing?
Thanx (Trevor)
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Now this has probably been discussed before, but I've got a bloke gonna try and make something up for me out of pipe. What have others done to get this off...I used a punch on the nut on the donor hubs and found this nut to be very soft and easily damaged.
Any tricks or ideas other than what I'm doing?
Thanx (Trevor)
- subybrumby
- Junior Member
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
Yea. I did that on the donor hubs in the vice to get the axles I want out. I just found that the punch was stuffing up the slots on the nut so want to go easier on the ones on my car. Also would prefer to do them on the car so I don't upset the brake lines (Gettin lazy) I might have to wait to see what me mate makes up for me, I think he will come good. he had a little MY wagon but sold it and is pretty handy with this sort of thing. I reckon a suitable sized slotted pipe would do the trick with a hole on the other end to slip a bar through.
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Yeah its not hard to make out from a pipe and weld the old socket on it... or use a punch & soft hammer. I've done that before.
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
- brumbyrunner
- General Member
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:00 am
- Location: SEQ
We got sick of banging away with a drift and hammer so steve made up the remover and also the castle nut spanner.They work well.
rtcb65
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
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Redneck Rick.
1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products
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- subybrumby
- Junior Member
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
Thanks for all the input. I had bought a 36ml impact socket for my rattle gun for removing the wheel castle nuts sooo...
Today, I quickly made up a small tool from a piece of pipe (Same pipe that holds road signs from small piece of scrap from work) that is the same dimension as the slotted nut. I cut the nutches out with an angle grinder and then welded a flat washer over the end (from the radius rod of an XD falcon) and then welded a spare castle nut from the donor hub. It came of pretty quickly while the hub was still attached to the car. Yippee (Ignore the welds or I'll get depressed) Just a quick fixit. I might make something more permanent along this line later on. Anyway it worked and achieved what I wanted to do. Its rough as guts but its only a prototype to see if it would work. Thanks to those that replied, they are all good ideas.
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Today, I quickly made up a small tool from a piece of pipe (Same pipe that holds road signs from small piece of scrap from work) that is the same dimension as the slotted nut. I cut the nutches out with an angle grinder and then welded a flat washer over the end (from the radius rod of an XD falcon) and then welded a spare castle nut from the donor hub. It came of pretty quickly while the hub was still attached to the car. Yippee (Ignore the welds or I'll get depressed) Just a quick fixit. I might make something more permanent along this line later on. Anyway it worked and achieved what I wanted to do. Its rough as guts but its only a prototype to see if it would work. Thanks to those that replied, they are all good ideas.
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[ATTACH]1211[/ATTACH]
- subybrumby
- Junior Member
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
- subybrumby
- Junior Member
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
- subybrumby
- Junior Member
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
and this :-
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Depth of tool needs to be about 100ml to clear rear of axle (like a plug spanner)
Teeth width 5ml
space between teeth 10ml
Depth of teeth 5ml.
Took these measurements best I can. An oil seal sits inside the ring.
I've got a bloke here in toowoomba who will take one also so send me two if you get it up and running thanks. He'll pay. (someone may want to check those measurements or test on a locking ring if you can get your hands on one.)
T
[ATTACH]1238[/ATTACH]
Depth of tool needs to be about 100ml to clear rear of axle (like a plug spanner)
Teeth width 5ml
space between teeth 10ml
Depth of teeth 5ml.
Took these measurements best I can. An oil seal sits inside the ring.
I've got a bloke here in toowoomba who will take one also so send me two if you get it up and running thanks. He'll pay. (someone may want to check those measurements or test on a locking ring if you can get your hands on one.)
T
- dirty skirt
- Junior Member
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:00 am
- Location: nundle nsw
Well the design I have at the moment has a 1/2 inch socket drive in it but Tech teacher says that will be too hard to make so it's gonna have a handle, but now you bring this up I spose we could weld a nut on the end so you can use a torque wrench.dirty skirt wrote:hey guys would it be better to have on the end with out the lugs a flat piece of plate with a nut on it so you could use a torque wrench to do the nut up or are they done up F T
cheers steve
Will consider it.
,Dom.
- subybrumby
- Junior Member
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- Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:03 pm
- Location: Toowoomba
Dom, I posted that lock nut to you today. Dirty Skirts post has some merrit.
If you want to unscrew this thing on the vehicle without taking the trailing arm off, it could be a bit restricted getting access to the area to get some grunt on it. Maybe two holes through the end at 90 degrees to each other to slide a pinch bar through or something like that. Or the 'weld a nut idea". I would go for the 36ml castle nut because most have a socket for it and rattle gun and torque wrench etc.
My first pathetic design was based on that idea so I could grab it in a number of ways...it worked until my cheap sh....tty pipe I built it from disintegrated.
When you get the locking ring, you'll see that it can be easily damaged. We need to get a good firm grab of it without slippage. Also the factory tool has a lip on each tooth (See previous photos) so it recessess into the ring and locks on..
Cheers T
If you want to unscrew this thing on the vehicle without taking the trailing arm off, it could be a bit restricted getting access to the area to get some grunt on it. Maybe two holes through the end at 90 degrees to each other to slide a pinch bar through or something like that. Or the 'weld a nut idea". I would go for the 36ml castle nut because most have a socket for it and rattle gun and torque wrench etc.
My first pathetic design was based on that idea so I could grab it in a number of ways...it worked until my cheap sh....tty pipe I built it from disintegrated.
When you get the locking ring, you'll see that it can be easily damaged. We need to get a good firm grab of it without slippage. Also the factory tool has a lip on each tooth (See previous photos) so it recessess into the ring and locks on..
Cheers T
Yep got it today, Did up some drawings, I didn't bother putting the nut on the end of the drawing as we'll just weld it on.subybrumby wrote:Dom, I posted that lock nut to you today. Dirty Skirts post has some merrit.
If you want to unscrew this thing on the vehicle without taking the trailing arm off, it could be a bit restricted getting access to the area to get some grunt on it. Maybe two holes through the end at 90 degrees to each other to slide a pinch bar through or something like that. Or the 'weld a nut idea". I would go for the 36ml castle nut because most have a socket for it and rattle gun and torque wrench etc.
My first pathetic design was based on that idea so I could grab it in a number of ways...it worked until my cheap sh....tty pipe I built it from disintegrated.
When you get the locking ring, you'll see that it can be easily damaged. We need to get a good firm grab of it without slippage. Also the factory tool has a lip on each tooth (See previous photos) so it recessess into the ring and locks on..
Cheers T
I'll try and get something happening with the tech teacher, I let ya know.
,Dom.
- subybrumby
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