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so i managed to pull my codes all it was repeating was 35 (may have been 36).
35 is the Canister Purge Control Solenoid its not connected and should not be making the car stugle to run??? so i was told by a higher source.

what else can cause this erratic idle/trying to stall? some times its from start up other times it starts shortly after driving for a couple min.

what would code 36 be then ?

conversions always seem to have some underlying issue to sort out aswell.

i first off never had my VSS hooked up to anything as i was informed it was only optional. never had a problem then, although now it is hooked onto my dash only because it was actually showing me the Engine Light and wanted it gone.

If anything is wrong with the idle on cars first thing i do is clean out the Butterfly and Throttlebody and a can of Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner is not a bad idea.

make sure there is no vacuum leaks/ splits in hoses especially the one going to the IACV (also wont hurt to clean that out if you havent)

how hard is it to get to the iacv? were abouts can i pick up the subaru upper engine cleaner? or is there an alternate i can use.

shuffbag wrote:how hard is it to get to the iacv? were abouts can i pick up the subaru upper engine cleaner? or is there an alternate i can use.

the IACV isnt 'that' easy to get to but is managable i reckon.

UEC - from subaru i guess altho ive never had to buy any yet.

Aftermarket ones are nowhere near as good imo.

but jsut use Carby Cleaner or thelikes to clean out the Throttle body.

double check all your manifold hoses. my liberty seems to search for idle/stall because one hose is disconnected

sorry to whore this thread but matatak YAAI (You Are An Idiot) spot using ghey hieroglyphics and abbreviations

]alex

its not that hard to get and is a common problem.Its on the right hand side back of manifold has a couple of hoses going to it.Yes do the iavc and purge solnoid they are very close to each other.I had a similar problem when i did my ej conversion and had cleaned it, uec it and stilled kept happening in the end it was a faulty ignition relay[brown one] which powered that circuit.

ok ran some stuff through my top end did little to nothing, it is running really rich when trying to find idle even after doing the battery dance with the computer.

does this still point towards the iacv?? if so does the throttle body need to be removed to get to it?

oh and the computer is still only spitting out error code 35 because its not connected.

ok i checked all hoses and there are no leaks

unplugged the o2 sensor whilst running made no diff, should it make a noticable diff in a ej? if so i'll be getting one first thing in the morning

all four cylinders have spark

i put cleanner straight through the iacv pipe but nothing more than a little white smoke along with the black.

does the green slide within sit at half open? it seems to move easy just returns to the half open position. pic below


once i get more stuff to clean the iacv(off the car this time), once its back in its place i will be pulling the plug one by one on the injectors. but is there anything else i should be looking at... once again its idle is all over the place, runs rich and stalls when slowing down(under driving conditions)

Looks like your slowly covering all the usually problem spots. Just to add a few things i have come across in my time... The O2 sensor can go bad but not spit a code. Mine has stuffed up so badly that i could barely drive the car. Changed the O2 sensor for an older one i had and it fixed it.

Also to me it sorta is soundling like a vacume leake. If your purge gear is not hooked up have you sealed up and blocked the hoses? I don't know if you have tried this... but with the vehicle running spray some flamable spray around the hoses and manifold gasekets in your engine bay. Something like WD40. If your idle changes when u spray a specific spot then you have found a leake.

Dave

wteva u do DO NOT block off the hoses to your Charcoal canister...

or u will pressurise ur fuel tank

well i have a basic fuel set up 1 fuel line/ 1 return so nothing else should affect my tank. it was running this way with no problems, befor my problems.

o2 sensor- swapped over to another no diff.

main relay- changed to another no diff.

iacv- clean moves freely it doesn't seem to be the problem

all hoses have no leaks/ cracks i even plugged the little uncapped leaks, no diff

crank sprocket- was told it may have had the keyway flogged out affecting timing, inspected and it cheacked out fine. i also reset the timing.
whilst removing plastic covers found out that previous owner made the rear right cover from about 8 peices and silicon and over thightened the bolts:mad: now i need new covers.

i think its sensor related and the only other i think it may be is the coolant temp senor in the block? only reason i think sensor (electrical) is because even tho my work is only about 10 min drive it ran like a dream to work, and like a pig on the way home 10hrs later.

it was looked over on sat by someone much wiser than myself, and he said the afm and tps didn't seem to be the problem.

wheres ur Evap line?

if you are refuring to one of the three main lines off the right of the motor, its still there just not connected to anything or blocked.

ha!!!! thats an interresting way to hook up the evap line :P


dave

well its been working, i'm still in the dialing in stage of this conversion and this problem has kind of stalled all progress

well my cars running great now and all tho i didn't think of the solution i'm glad its all fixed.

K&N (new pre-oiled) + afm = one screwed up afm

and befor all the rain had past (adelaide), got to love 4 wheel sliding in the mud:-D

thats why I run standard paper filters. lots of people have trouble ith oiled panels and AFMs

yeah i've done a liberty air box chop, functions great looks great;) i'm pretty happy with this system