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Hi all , was back at Pick and Payless today for a spare set of L DR 5MT shift rod and stay brace/rod .

Only one car had them (box gone) and the console was out so an easy snaffle .

I removed the shift rod from the gearstick itself to check over the bushes and was amazed at how much clearance there is between the steel bush and the bolt itself .
I know people here say that replacing the bushes makes a huge difference and it would want to judging by the play in this one joint .
The gearbox end of the shift rod has two of these joints set at 90 degrees to each other and I've noticed that Subaru set the inner one so it can't be removed without drifting out the roll pin that retains the "cup" end on the selectors striker rod . I suppose this is so that the bolt can't fall out if the nut goes postal but a dab of nut lock would ensure that anyway .

Does anyone have the part numbers for the nylon and rubber bushings and is it usual to replace the inner steel bush too ?

BTW the reason I want the rods themselves is because my stay rod may have been shortened a bit too much for the L AWD transmission conversion . It's gearbox end mounting bracket has been spaced back which helped but I think the answer may be another stay rod narrowed and shortened a little less and a slightly shortened shift rod to pull the stick a little further forward .
Regardless it has too much play in the joints so may as well do it all in one go .

Cheers A .

i just replaced them with an appropiatly sized bit of hose lying around home... takes all the play out of it... part numberss... sorry cant help there

OMG WOW spam!!

part time 4wd or full time
and year model?????
FAST GIVES ME ABOUT 15 DIFFERENT PART NUMBERS IS WHY I ASK

FROG wrote:part time 4wd or full time
and year model?????
FAST GIVES ME ABOUT 15 DIFFERENT PART NUMBERS IS WHY I ASK

Full time, but is modding a part time shifter to try and get the rod lenght correct.

Cheers

Bennie

Slight Hijack of post -: Frog, does it show which parts are different in the linkage between the Full Time 4WD and the Part Time box? I'd love to get the factory FT linkage parts. My shift has never been quite right since doing the "modification". Thanks

Fang I think our idea of getting the stay bar length right is half the fight .

If I had my time over again I'd have stood both an AWD and a PT box on their noses (on wooden blocks so they don't stand on the input shaft) and measured the difference in length where the stay rod mount faces are . If you had an unbent exhaust hanger bracket you could measure its offset because it mounts to the exhaust pipe itself in the same location . Once the difference is known the PT type stay rod could be shortened by the same amount and locate the shift mechanism where it would be in a factory AWD car .
The reason why its length is important is because it literally is the bottom plate and the base mount for the gear stick itself .

There are two ways to go about getting the distance between the gearstick and the gearboxes linkage right . You can remove the shift rod itself and lengthen/shorten or remove the gearstick and "move" the hole where the shift rod attaches to it .

Anyway if we can get Ellies two rods working well I'll post the lengths so that others have a base line to work from .

Cheers A .

Just a quick note… I have been off the board for over a week and not following all the threads (due to time and interest) however if I can get an idea of exactly what your after I may be able to measure my AWD box as its still out, albeit under the car and the zort bracket it not bent and selectors working fine. In addition to this I also have a spare d/r selector set up so could compare bits/take some pictures for you.

If the rod that selects the gears is out its total length in mm would be good .

As for the stay bar/flat plate affair , if we can have the measurement from the forward end of the plate to the tubular section that has the rubber bushes at the gearbox end that would be handy .

Cheers A .