Lift kit bolts/ steering nightmare

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BRUMBERTY
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Lift kit bolts/ steering nightmare

Post by BRUMBERTY » Sat May 17, 2008 6:45 pm

Cooee all,
After buying the WonderBrumby Mark 2 and transplanting the goodies into her I have had awful trouble keeping alignment on the front tyres.

Fair enough that I have jumped it and raced it and hauled tray loads of brickies sand up hellish gravel hills...
and its a 280 horsepower drivertrain...but these tyres were rooted in months.
At $160 a pop I was getting shat, quickly.

I found the problem..

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Front crossmember lift bolts (or not really in this case).

2 out of 3 and those 2 are mild steel threaded rod!
Snapped top plate and very stripped threads where it counted.

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Bugger.

Firstly assemble a trustworthy team...

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Then some bits... In this case I used some EJ22 head bolts; about 20mm long but who cares, at least they are High tensile!! 6mm plate will be supporting it.

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There is a huge difference between 3mm and 6mm when it comes to your life hey..
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1989 Subaru WonderBrumby II
EJ22 Dual range AWD lifted, widened and much happier now thanks very much.

1991 L Series wagon, white and perfectly normal apart from the ticking, no I think that is normal.

Jet boat..webbered EA81 with a hybrid tin dish welded and glued to it.

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brumbyrunner
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Post by brumbyrunner » Sat May 17, 2008 6:55 pm

Holy smokes I can't believe that! Where in the world did you buy those? Everybody knows you can't drink red from a tumbler!















Seriously though, where did that lift kit come from? I hope you didn't build it :)
Settlement Creek Racing

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BRUMBERTY
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Post by BRUMBERTY » Sat May 17, 2008 7:10 pm

Commercial grade stemless red wine glass Stuart...almost impossible for even me to spill.

Yes they do even stay on the bullbar for a short spin around Cranbrook.

Tested.

Lift was in there when I purchased her. Origin unknown.

Brown trousers when I found it though.
1989 Subaru WonderBrumby II
EJ22 Dual range AWD lifted, widened and much happier now thanks very much.

1991 L Series wagon, white and perfectly normal apart from the ticking, no I think that is normal.

Jet boat..webbered EA81 with a hybrid tin dish welded and glued to it.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sat May 17, 2008 10:51 pm

brumbyrunner wrote:Everybody knows you can't drink red from a tumbler!
If its a quality drop of goon it deserves to be drunk from a tubler, old jam jar or even a plastic cup... I've read that Brumberty enjoys a fine drop and would most likely know better anyway ;)
BRUMBERTY wrote:Lift was in there when I purchased her. Origin unknown.

Brown trousers when I found it though.
I'd reckon! That's crazy dodgy... I don't think the wacky shop would even go that far!!!

Glad you found it before you encountered other problems with the front end - like it falling out completely!

Good team you have there too, where are the trusty chooks?

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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AndrewT
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Post by AndrewT » Sun May 18, 2008 2:33 pm

yer we've always just used the bolts that come with the lift kit. I don't know many people who've made their own lift kits from scratch but yeh, you'd definitely use propper bolts.
Most of the pre-packaged lift kits I've encounted only come with the bolts for the engine crossmember not the little upper plate...normally you have to bash the standard bolts out (they are tack welded in) and use the standard upper plate.
Naturally a dirty thick bit of flat bar is better, that's what I'm going to be using on the monsterwagon.

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90brumby
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Post by 90brumby » Sun May 18, 2008 10:28 pm

for best results u would use shorter bolts at the top n then short bolts at the bottom giving it much more stength


but the head bolts should hold up if it happens again i would deffently b puttin short bolts top n bottom
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A 00 outback for doner car
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subybrumby
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Post by subybrumby » Mon May 19, 2008 4:42 pm

A shed full of suby bits, dog nearby, glass of red...place is like a crab pot...wouldn't be able to get me out of it.

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BRUMBERTY
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Post by BRUMBERTY » Mon May 19, 2008 7:34 pm

subybrumby wrote:A shed full of suby bits, dog nearby, glass of red...place is like a crab pot...wouldn't be able to get me out of it.
Which is the exact reason I have been to the big smoke (Hobart) only two or three times this year. Big Big smoke (smellbourne) just once.

Homebody mate.

Loving it too.
1989 Subaru WonderBrumby II
EJ22 Dual range AWD lifted, widened and much happier now thanks very much.

1991 L Series wagon, white and perfectly normal apart from the ticking, no I think that is normal.

Jet boat..webbered EA81 with a hybrid tin dish welded and glued to it.

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BRUMBERTY
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Location: Cranbrook, Tasmania

Post by BRUMBERTY » Mon May 19, 2008 7:37 pm

90brumby wrote:for best results u would use shorter bolts at the top n then short bolts at the bottom giving it much more stength


but the head bolts should hold up if it happens again i would deffently b puttin short bolts top n bottom
Where are you putting the short bolts dude?

They are all the same length and going through the crosmember..lift blocks and then frame rails....I fail to see where you could shove ashort bolt.
1989 Subaru WonderBrumby II
EJ22 Dual range AWD lifted, widened and much happier now thanks very much.

1991 L Series wagon, white and perfectly normal apart from the ticking, no I think that is normal.

Jet boat..webbered EA81 with a hybrid tin dish welded and glued to it.

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vincentvega
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Post by vincentvega » Mon May 19, 2008 9:21 pm

this is coming from the guy with a liberty rear end bolted to the tray of his brumby!

you cant use shorter bolts in a proper lift kit with crush tubes. You can with C section but thats a whole other kettle of fish.

your head studs will do fine! good thing you spotted the problem mate
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brumbyrunner wrote:And just to clarify the real 4WD thing, Subarus are an unreal 4WD.

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Matatak
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Post by Matatak » Mon May 19, 2008 9:32 pm

i think Tristan was talking more about the 4 Inch Lift Kits as they seem to have 2 sets of bolts for the cross member lift brackets.

top set bolting the bracket up to the Chassis and bottom set bolting to the Cross member.

they are also quite a different design to the crush tubes.
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Wagon is no longer....:(

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plucky
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Post by plucky » Mon May 19, 2008 10:26 pm

Regarding tyre scrubbing: I have had this problem, its usually caused by the alignment people. They just align the front end with toe in, as if it's a falcodore or something. Factory specs are 2 - 3 mm toe out. If set with toe in, front wheel drive in normal street use = equals tyres scrubbed on the outside. Feels a bit skittish in 2wd in loose surfaces too. Think about the engineering and forces when driving and it all becomes obvious.

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