Growly RX T rear wheel bearing issue .
- discopotato03
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Growly RX T rear wheel bearing issue .
Hi all , have I think a growly rear nearside wheel bearing so have ordered two kits through CBC Bankstown for $52.46 ea retail . I hope these are the right ones which people say are a double tapered roller bearing cartridge .
Its high time the trailing arms are removed to have their urethane bushes fitted and the anti roll bar mounts changed to suit std two bolt brackets/hoops so will do both sides .
Will post the process after its done , cheers A .
Its high time the trailing arms are removed to have their urethane bushes fitted and the anti roll bar mounts changed to suit std two bolt brackets/hoops so will do both sides .
Will post the process after its done , cheers A .
- discopotato03
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- twilightprotege
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make sure they are the sealed type also from cbc. and work them on the price, i got both front sets for 40buks total 

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- twilightprotege
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- discopotato03
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- twilightprotege
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whats the diffrence from 2wd to 4wd? hubs are the same
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- El_Freddo
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If your asking about the rears - the 2wd rears have an axle stub that the bearings spin around.BrennyV wrote:whats the diffrence from 2wd to 4wd? hubs are the same
The 4wd (as you'd know) have the CV shaft coming through the swing arm, the bearings are in the swing arm... make sense or clear as mud?
Front hubs i've heard there are differences, but I really don't think there are any - front hubs are the same spline diametre as the 4wd counterparts, havn't looked any further into this.
Cheers
Bennie
nah i ment front. i neva have noticed any diffrence.
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- discopotato03
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Ah actually the rear semi trailing arms have a stub axle in them suspended in the twin opposed tapered roller bearing cartridge .
The outer rear drive shaft joints go over this axle's inner end spline and are retained by roll pins - same deal as the fronts at the inner or gearbox end . The rear is the same system at both inner and outer joints on L series and probably MY's .
Cheers A .
The outer rear drive shaft joints go over this axle's inner end spline and are retained by roll pins - same deal as the fronts at the inner or gearbox end . The rear is the same system at both inner and outer joints on L series and probably MY's .
Cheers A .
- discopotato03
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Nearside rear wheel bearing changed - and all for zip because it was fine .
The growling from the back was found to be my cheap nasty temporary 13" tyres because I didn't want to spend money on 13's with the 16's in the wings .
It wasn't the diff either because its currently sitting in the boot rather than under it .
We will change the other side tomorrow afternoon weather permitting so that both sides are new . I was contemplating getting the diff opened up though I don't think I'll bother because it doesn't leak and feels ok .
The job itself seems easy enough though my mechanic friend does have all sorts of nifty drifting tools and tubular tools designed for this purpose .
I gather Subaru intend you to separate the inner and outer arm though we managed with it in one piece .
The staked retaining nut put up a bit of a fight but with patience it came undone . The bearings that came out did not have a one piece outer race like the CBC NTN kit , they were NTN brand but the outer races were separate with a spacer in between .
The hydraulic brake line was easy , my friend used a nifty compact Stahl Willie rubber brake line clamp and let it gravity bleed when it was put back together .
The bonnet lock cable decided to lose its ferrule at the catch end and a temporary clamp was fitted to keep it workable .
Next time you think you have a dying rear wheel bearing swap a couple of wheels around and see if the noise goes away - you may just save a bit of time and money ...
The growling from the back was found to be my cheap nasty temporary 13" tyres because I didn't want to spend money on 13's with the 16's in the wings .
It wasn't the diff either because its currently sitting in the boot rather than under it .
We will change the other side tomorrow afternoon weather permitting so that both sides are new . I was contemplating getting the diff opened up though I don't think I'll bother because it doesn't leak and feels ok .
The job itself seems easy enough though my mechanic friend does have all sorts of nifty drifting tools and tubular tools designed for this purpose .
I gather Subaru intend you to separate the inner and outer arm though we managed with it in one piece .
The staked retaining nut put up a bit of a fight but with patience it came undone . The bearings that came out did not have a one piece outer race like the CBC NTN kit , they were NTN brand but the outer races were separate with a spacer in between .
The hydraulic brake line was easy , my friend used a nifty compact Stahl Willie rubber brake line clamp and let it gravity bleed when it was put back together .
The bonnet lock cable decided to lose its ferrule at the catch end and a temporary clamp was fitted to keep it workable .
Next time you think you have a dying rear wheel bearing swap a couple of wheels around and see if the noise goes away - you may just save a bit of time and money ...
- discopotato03
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Offside rear bearing now changed , this one was a touch gritty but not really shot . Now all that's left is to refit the rear diff and drive shafts .
Just on this , with the car up on stands is it possible to fit the shafts to the stub axles and then sit the diff on a trolley jack and get the inner joints on its halfshafts ?
If so then a simple lift to hang the thing by its single front and twin rear mounts would be easy enough .
Cheers A .
Just on this , with the car up on stands is it possible to fit the shafts to the stub axles and then sit the diff on a trolley jack and get the inner joints on its halfshafts ?
If so then a simple lift to hang the thing by its single front and twin rear mounts would be easy enough .
Cheers A .