no "idle up" when engine is cold

LTurbo · Post by **LTurbo** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:27 am

The car (EA82T) no longer idles up at 2000rpm when the car is started on cold mornings like it used to.

It’s happened right after I have installed an intercooler on the car, were I disconnected the throttle cable and some breather lines to get some more space. Breather lines and cable are now connected up like they originally were. So I am guessing it has to do with disconnecting the throttle cable? But I am stumped on how? Does anyone know how the idle up is controlled? By the computer and a servo or something?

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:51 am

Check the wiring to that 3 plug device on top of the thermostat housing as thats the cold start extra air supply valve .

Cheers A .

LTurbo · Post by **LTurbo** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:07 pm

discopotato03 wrote:Check the wiring to that 3 plug device on top of the thermostat housing as thats the cold start extra air supply valve .

Cheers A .

Thanks mate, I think I know what I have done now. I had to modify the tube that goes from the thermostat housing to the throttle body. I didn't have anything suitable and the tube I used is to stiff and has a big kink in it now. So the extra air that comes from the valve when it opens is not getting through into the throttle body.

So this valve supplies more air to the engine making in rev higher when its cold, correct? were the hell does the air come from when the valve opens?

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 12:36 pm

Usually they get metred clean air from somewhere downstream of the airflow metre . I think I ended up removing the cast aluminium crossover duct as this from memory is where it gets air from initially . I cleaned up and lightly greesed the fittings and used screw clamps to ensure they sealed on their barbs . I think I had a couple of phillips head screwdrives down through the thermostat housings bolt holes to line everything up ie that bloody gasket . I only ever use new gaskets here and lightly greese them so that in an emergency I can get the housing off and not destroy the gasket . God help anyone who uses Permatex hardening sealer here .

BTW the Nissan two bolt 200B thermostat gasket fits (mine did) better than the Subaru one offered to me . In fact the 54mm thermostat itself is usable and the only difference is that the valve is slightly offset in its plate . I got the 77 deg Subi one but I would have used the 200B one if the Subi had only been availabe in 82 deg . I only pulled my thermostat out because the car ran cold all the time - turned out the one it had was jamed open . It now warms up quickly and no probs .

Cheers A .

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 3:48 pm

ah interesting. my car doesnt like to start all by itself in the mornings now. have to give him a little rev, so i may check out this extra air valve thingy. or it may have something to do with my crappy ecu tune.

Gremlins · Post by **Gremlins** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:01 am

were the hell does the air come from when the valve opens?

On the bottom of the aluminium air duct from the Turbo to the throttle body (the one with Subaru Turbo 4WD printed on it) there is an attachment for a reasonably large hose (around 12mm from memory). This hose runs to the cold idle up air valve and is the source of the air. I imagine with the intercooler you would have removed the standard aluminium air duct, so if this hose is disconnected dirty air will be drawn in from under the bonnet when the cold idle up air valve is open. You will probably also get a lean condition that may cause the motor to stall as un-metered air will be drawn into the motor (essentially a big vacuum leak).

LTurbo · Post by **LTurbo** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:53 am

Gremlins wrote:On the bottom of the aluminium air duct from the Turbo to the throttle body (the one with Subaru Turbo 4WD printed on it) there is an attachment for a reasonably large hose (around 12mm from memory). This hose runs to the cold idle up air valve and is the source of the air. I imagine with the intercooler you would have removed the standard aluminium air duct, so if this hose is disconnected dirty air will be drawn in from under the bonnet when the cold idle up air valve is open. You will probably also get a lean condition that may cause the motor to stall as un-metered air will be drawn into the motor (essentially a big vacuum leak).

Yeah that is the tube I was talking about in my previous post, I replaced with a tube that is to stiff and hence one of the bends it has to make is a big kink. Which is my problem as there is probably no air flow going past that kink.

I was just more wondering what the air does when the cold idle up air valve is open. Goes to the engine some how? to a diaphragm to control the throttle a bit? I just have not had a chance to have a look and fiddle yet to work it out.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:11 am

Thomas, I think gremlins is trying to say you may have left a hose off this unit because you only talk about one hose. Air enters at the rear of the unit from the underside of the cast alloy TURBO bit you have removed via a hose, then when valve allows, air then goes to under the throttle body at the plenum of manifold through hose #2.

I am about to fit 12.7mm (1/2 inch heater hose and use 13mm irrigation elbows for the corners to avoid kinking. There is also the Uni coil that is available (if you order/push your parts guy) in half inch. it is a spring shaped coil of wire with a back bone so you can shape straight hose into bends without the kinks. Unicoil was not the best bought thing here in Oz but the rest of the world has taken to it and Gates now own it and marketing it better. I saw 16mm kits with alength of hose sell for a coupla bucks just to get rid of them, (were priced at $30 with a lenght of hose and two coils) now gates sell the coils in a box.

CBC in Kembla St sell Gates stuff

LTurbo · Post by **LTurbo** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:52 am

jono wrote:Thomas, I think gremlins is trying to say you may have left a hose off this unit because you only talk about one hose. Air enters at the rear of the unit from the underside of the cast alloy TURBO bit you have removed via a hose, then when valve allows, air then goes to under the throttle body at the plenum of manifold through hose #2.

Ahh sorry, I have replaced the cast alloy pipe with a plastic one from a NA mpfi which has the same fitment on the base of it for hose #1, I have not touched hose #2 that goes to the plenum.

haha I was just thinking myself I could probably use irrigation joiners and some more heater hose to sort everything out (some of the breathers in that area I have just dodgyed up for the moment as well). I was just wondering whether the irrigation stuff will handle the heat, I reckon it probably will, only one way to find out. The unicoil stuff sounds neat though, as you could make the bends to suit and flow better then 90 bends all the time.

Does CBC sell just hose stuff? I am trying to find some 1" rubber (or similar material, maybe silicone?) hose and have had very little luck. I still have yet to try Tractor Replacements and Enzed.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 12:18 pm

Over ten years ago I noticed an old guy using a wingfield irrigation 1/2" tap as a heater tap under the bonnet and thought it was dodgy, yet it held up. I have had same as a heater tap in me other car for same period without problems (stupidly risky I know) and it had hot water running thru, these hoses will have hot air only ! There is a hose place opposite Batalion Motors in Gladstone St where i got my turbo oil drain hose $24 per metre and he was willing to sell me just 100mm! There is also Pirtek in Maryborough St near supreme smash.