2010 Forester Diesel Dash Lights On

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Sat Apr 14, 2018 7:25 pm

Hi Patrick,

Up and running :) many thanks. There was a few things that stumped me but we were able to work through them. I've setup one of my old mobile android phones for Danielle to use and leave in the car.

I will list some of the issues I found.

1. You (anyone else wishing to install) need to make sure your android device is connected (and has the capability) to the net
2. The OBDII dongle is a good quality one (I brought one from Jaycar because the ebay one I brought stopped working)
3. I had to create the subdirectory folder for the PIDs, as there was nothing in there for the file you sent me.
4. The dash layout was over 4 pages and some were different to the ones on the display I posted.

We went for a test drive in our Outback first and was very pleased with it. Our Outback is Diesel with CVT, so I was wondering how it would go with holding the right RPM but it did with ease and was good to watch the whole process.

I'll attach the dashboard I've setup on my old phone for Danielle to leave setup in her car.
Attachments
Danielle dash.JPG
Danielle dash.JPG (30.77 KiB) Viewed 2758 times
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
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pitrack_1
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Warning Regarding Starting Whilst Torque/Torque Pro Is Already Running

Post by pitrack_1 » Sat Apr 14, 2018 10:52 pm

WARNING AGAINST INITIATING AN OBD-II CONNECTION WHILST TORQUE PRO IS ALREADY RUNNING
(Note I have posted about this elsewhere)

I forgot last night: there is a chance, under a specific situation, that Torque will initiate a miscommunication with the forester and disable most, if not all, features. THIS CAN INCLUDE DISABLING THE POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE and believe me, the car is difficult to drive without it.

The way to avoid it is to:

1) Put the OBD-II dongle in and Start the car FIRST
2) Start Torque /Torque Pro SECOND
(Order in 1 may be interchangeable but 2 must be done last)

3) Stop the car = EXIT OR STOP Torque/Torque Pro (not just 'background" Torque/ Torque Pro or switch away from it to another program)

You will know if you've initiated the problem because you will get a "Christmas tree" effect on the dashboard (including some flashing lights). and various other features will be affected. Car will also likely go into 'limp' mode (rev and boost limited).

Salient points:
  • I think this may apply to older versions of Torque/Torque Pro but I wouldn't guarantee it.
  • It occurs if Torque/Torque Pro is already running when you connect the OBD-II
  • It is caused byTorque/Torque Pro continuously scanning the different protocols whilst not connected and then connecting at 250k instead of 500k causing instant miscommunication.
  • It will log a code for a CAN Bus error (Can't remember the code)
  • You will then need to stop the car, stop Torque/Torque Pro, installing the OBD-II adaptor, turning the key to "on" or starting the car and then restart Torque/Torque Pro.
  • The code can be cleared usually by a couple of code scans/clears using Torque/Torque Pro. I think it also self-clears after a restart and a bit of driving so the car can see it's OK (run its driving self-tests I guess).
The main issue seems to be the loss of comms for Torque/Torque Pro whilst the program is still running so there are other situations where I could foresee this happening, such as removal of the Torque/Torque Pro device out of Bluetooth range whilst Torque/Torque Pro is still running (i.e. pop in to pay for petrol or get a coffee) or some other Bluetooth interruption or disconnection.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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pitrack_1
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Post by pitrack_1 » Sat Apr 14, 2018 11:42 pm

Issues
RSR 555 wrote:1. You (anyone else wishing to install) need to make sure your android device is connected (and has the capability) to the net
It may have just needed to confirm the licence first. My device only needs Bluetooth to connect to OBD-II dongle. If you have a WiFi dongle then you'll still need WiFi on

There are a few of options that may be worth deactivating (untick) to prevent WiFi/internet access otherwise it might ask (or initiate) Wifi, e.g:
  • Enable WiFi Sync with desktop app (in General Preferences)
  • Upload to Webserver (in Data Logging & Upload)
  • Log to Twitter (in Data Logging & Upload)
  • Facebook login (in Data Logging & Upload)
RSR 555 wrote:2. The OBDII dongle is a good quality one (I brought one from Jaycar because the ebay one I brought stopped working)
Sorry, I'm not sure I'd call Jaycar good quality but at least you can go and get it immediately and take it back if it doesn't work (worth a lot in itself).

Unfortunately you're right and the Ebay/other cheap clones have 'gone to pot' in the past few years. I was privileged enough to get a good 'un several years ago that has served faultlessly. I have now 'upgraded' to an OBDLink MX because it gives me faster polls and also extended/proprietary Ford/Mazda access.
RSR 555 wrote:3. I had to create the subdirectory folder for the PIDs, as there was nothing in there for the file you sent me.
Sorry, I didn't realise. Maybe I did the same thing all those years ago. At least I gave you the name of the subdirectory to create :-)
RSR 555 wrote:4. The dash layout was over 4 pages and some were different to the ones on the display I posted.
Apologies again, I was afraid that may happen, especially the locations, due to the (almost certain) differing screen sizes between your device and mine. What I did was load up my device with the same screen (judged by post date from my original post) as the image you posted and then confirm the items were the same. I then exported it and that was the file I uploaded. That one on mine only has 3 screens with the main one being as you showed (just loaded and confirmed it now...can post a photo if necessary). I am sorry, it was 3am or so (I think), I was tired, I was doing it from memory and could only guess at your Android skill level and/or access to help thereof.
RSR 555 wrote:We went for a test drive in our Outback first and was very pleased with it. Our Outback is Diesel with CVT, so I was wondering how it would go with holding the right RPM but it did with ease and was good to watch the whole process.
Glad it works! Don't forget you can log the data too and plot it up e.g. in Excel afterwards. I did that to prove to the Subaru dealer I knew what i was talking about and the distance between regens.

You can set up a voice warning for the regen coming on...if it's already there I apologise, I originally set one up then for some reason it wouldn't remove. If it isn't I wouldn't recommend adding one as it can squawk at you more or less constantly.
RSR 555 wrote:I'll attach the dashboard I've setup on my old phone for Danielle to leave setup in her car.
Nicely done, nice and simple.

Can I also make a suggestion that you 'benchmark' the Forester now that it's all clean (internally) like new? That way you can watch if/when the performance degrades and take appropriate action. Torque Pro will record 0-100 (or perhaps 0-60mph) times (never done it myself).

Good luck with it all!
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:16 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:WARNING AGAINST INITIATING AN OBD-II CONNECTION WHILST TORQUE PRO IS ALREADY RUNNING
(Note I have posted about this elsewhere)

I forgot last night: there is a chance, under a specific situation, that Torque will initiate a miscommunication with the forester and disable most, if not all, features. THIS CAN INCLUDE DISABLING THE POWER STEERING ASSISTANCE and believe me, the car is difficult to drive without it.
OK ALL COPIED !!

Pretty sure any power assisted car would be difficult to drive when power steering assistance is lossed but I'm getting your point.
pitrack_1 wrote:The way to avoid it is to:

1) Put the OBD-II dongle in and Start the car FIRST
2) Start Torque /Torque Pro SECOND
(Order in 1 may be interchangeable but 2 must be done last)

3) Stop the car = EXIT OR STOP Torque/Torque Pro (not just 'background" Torque/ Torque Pro or switch away from it to another program)
What if the dongle and app is left in the vehicle all the time and the app is not turned off? I was not aware of this process and went from one car to another without turning off the app. I just changed the vehicle profile and off we went but if this isn't right, I'll shut it down. Could this also be due to the reliability of the dongle and it's ability to communicate constantly?
pitrack_1 wrote:You will know if you've initiated the problem because you will get a "Christmas tree" effect on the dashboard (including some flashing lights). and various other features will be affected. Car will also likely go into 'limp' mode (rev and boost limited).
Sounds exactly like what happened to the Foz when the DPF was choked up
pitrack_1 wrote:The main issue seems to be the loss of comms for Torque/Torque Pro whilst the program is still running so there are other situations where I could foresee this happening, such as removal of the Torque/Torque Pro device out of Bluetooth range whilst Torque/Torque Pro is still running (i.e. pop in to pay for petrol or get a coffee) or some other Bluetooth interruption or disconnection.
Yeah, I can understand loss of bluetooth comms could cause an issue but it our case, we are leaving the dongle and android device in the car all the time and never removed (hence using an old phone that never gets used anymore).
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Sun Apr 15, 2018 9:46 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:It may have just needed to confirm the licence first. My device only needs Bluetooth to connect to OBD-II dongle. If you have a WiFi dongle then you'll still need WiFi on
Sorry might not have made myself clear with my typing. I meant for other new people wanting to install this setup in their car.

I understand that the bluetooth dongle only requires bluetooth connection but this is after someone has setup the app. I was thinking of making a set by step instructions for someone like my friend who isn't tech savy.. not that I'm any better

pitrack_1 wrote:Sorry, I'm not sure I'd call Jaycar good quality but at least you can go and get it immediately and take it back if it doesn't work (worth a lot in itself).
I think that's a personal opinion but definitely worth the warranty side of things. I'll let you know how long it lasts.
pitrack_1 wrote:Unfortunately you're right and the Ebay/other cheap clones have 'gone to pot' in the past few years. I was privileged enough to get a good 'un several years ago that has served faultlessly. I have now 'upgraded' to an OBDLink MX because it gives me faster polls and also extended/proprietary Ford/Mazda access.
Unfortunately??? hahaha.. nah I've learnt my lesson buying rubbish of ebay. You get what you pay for in my books. I've spent thousands on workshop equipment and have given up buying cheap chinese crap. Funny thing is my dad used to say the same thing about japanese stuff but look how far they have come.
pitrack_1 wrote:Sorry, I didn't realise. Maybe I did the same thing all those years ago. At least I gave you the name of the subdirectory to create :-)
No need to apologise mate, all good. Again, just trying to make it easier for my mate to install it.
pitrack_1 wrote:Apologies again, I was afraid that may happen, especially the locations, due to the (almost certain) differing screen sizes between your device and mine. What I did was load up my device with the same screen (judged by post date from my original post) as the image you posted and then confirm the items were the same. I then exported it and that was the file I uploaded. That one on mine only has 3 screens with the main one being as you showed (just loaded and confirmed it now...can post a photo if necessary). I am sorry, it was 3am or so (I think), I was tired, I was doing it from memory and could only guess at your Android skill level and/or access to help thereof.
No apologise need again bud, it's all good. Was just letting you know what I found when I got my display up and running. My android skill level out of 10 (being the highest) would be be around 2.5 and falling but I'll give anything a go until it's broken :p You only have to look at my avatar to see my computer skills.
pitrack_1 wrote:Glad it works! Don't forget you can log the data too and plot it up e.g. in Excel afterwards. I did that to prove to the Subaru dealer I knew what i was talking about and the distance between regens.
Definitely going to data log all the info. I remember asking you in the app did this many moons ago, in another thread.
pitrack_1 wrote:You can set up a voice warning for the regen coming on...if it's already there I apologise, I originally set one up then for some reason it wouldn't remove. If it isn't I wouldn't recommend adding one as it can squawk at you more or less constantly.
Didn't come on for us in either the Outback or the Forester, so all good
pitrack_1 wrote:Nicely done, nice and simple.
Yeah, just on the front screen for Danielle, the other pages have all the other stuff.
pitrack_1 wrote:Can I also make a suggestion that you 'benchmark' the Forester now that it's all clean (internally) like new? That way you can watch if/when the performance degrades and take appropriate action. Torque Pro will record 0-100 (or perhaps 0-60mph) times (never done it myself).
Is the 'benchmark' a function of the app or do we do this just on the excel speedsheet?
pitrack_1 wrote:Good luck with it all!
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
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Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

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Post by pitrack_1 » Mon Apr 16, 2018 12:26 am

RSR 555 wrote:Sorry might not have made myself clear with my typing. I meant for other new people wanting to install this setup in their car.

I understand that the bluetooth dongle only requires bluetooth connection but this is after someone has setup the app. I was thinking of making a set by step instructions for someone like my friend who isn't tech savy.. not that I'm any better
I think you're a very good candidate because:
1) You've just done it so it's fresh in your mind
2) You're not (at least claim to be!) 'tech-savvy' so you'll write it in a manner other 'less tech-savvy' people will understand.

For example: I'd totally forgotten I must've created the PID subdirectory myself. Or perhaps adding them manually in the program (which you can do, it's in the preferences) created it...although now I come to think of it that may be the case because I think that's where I got the csv file structure from too to manually type up the PIDs and put them in the directory.

RSR 555 wrote: I think that's a personal opinion but definitely worth the warranty side of things. I'll let you know how long it lasts.
Yes it's my opinion but it's based both on experience and evidence. I've found plenty of Jaycar's items on Ebay/other Chinese sites for cheaper. However I do consider Jaycar bring it to Oz, hopefully have some semblance of QC over the items but they must meet Australian Consumer Law (and other besides) and can be held accountable to ACL due to their physical presence. For example, although their electrical products may be functionally identical to O/S ones they will come with Australian plugs (and hopefully certification/testing to Aust standards). I also compare the Jaycar stuff to more 'professional' items but do take into account the 'consumer/hobbyist' nature of Jaycar's retail environment.
RSR 555 wrote: Unfortunately??? hahaha.. nah I've learnt my lesson buying rubbish of ebay. You get what you pay for in my books. I've spent thousands on workshop equipment and have given up buying cheap chinese crap. Funny thing is my dad used to say the same thing about japanese stuff but look how far they have come.
Hmmm, is this your personal opinion on rubbish off ebay? Perhaps, but it will be based on experience? Of course...so similar to mine! :-)

And whilst Chinese 'crap' may seem to dominate I've seen stuff come out of China the equal of anywhere else. It's just a matter of finding the right products/suppliers amongst all the dross.

As you point out, yes the Japanese started out as cheap products producers in the 60's. In the 70's it moved to Singapore, then Hong Kong, then Korea. All outgrew this and I'll bet China will do the same, with perhaps India to follow.

Ahem, enough digression...

RSR 555 wrote:My android skill level out of 10 (being the highest) would be be around 2.5 and falling but I'll give anything a go until it's broken :p You only have to look at my avatar to see my computer skills.
I think you're underestimating your skills. 'Computer skills' need not necessarily be the actual work on the computer but the ability to collate information and source resources (e.g. other people) to solve your issue. I note your OBD-II dongle, phone and Torque setups are not broken!
RSR 555 wrote:Is the 'benchmark' a function of the app or do we do this just on the excel speedsheet?
I think I've been a bit loose with my terminology again. What I meant to say is use the 0-100kph display value. You can do this by:
  1. In the Torque Pro realtime display, press and hold a part of the display background . a menu should pop up.
  2. Select "Add display"
  3. Select your display type (I suggest "Digital display")
  4. Select your "sensor:" 0-100kph Time (if you select 0-100mph...I don't wanna know!)
  5. Select display size (perhaps "Medium")
  6. Position your display by dragging it to where you want it on the screen.
  7. Do a 0-100kph run (use your GPS speed, not the speedo!) . I think it should put up a time. Maybe I'll go out and give it a go tonight :-)
  8. If you're time is crummy and you believe you can do better, you should be able to reset it by:
    1. pressing and holding on the 0-100 kph display until a menu pops up.
    2. Selecting "Reset Recorded Min/Max/Times"
  9. Downhills and tailwinds are cheating. Stop it. (The Fun Police have spoken! :mrgreen: )
Patrick
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Post by pitrack_1 » Mon Apr 16, 2018 1:45 am

Firstly let me say if you're not having any problems then don't change anything- just keep in mind what's below.

In case you get the Christmas Lights;
- Pull over safely (if somehow whilst driving).
- Power off vehicle.
- Exit Torque.
- Vehicle ignition on (no need to start).
- Start Torque.
- Select fault codes from main Torque menu.
- Tap to scan for faults.
- Confirm only fault is CANBus error (otherwise there are other issues).
- Select Clear Faults from ECU from top-right menu, you may need to do this a couple of times.
- Exit torque.
- Power off vehicle.
- Start vehicle and confirm Christmas lights (and any others not normally on) are gone.
RSR 555 wrote:What if the dongle and app is left in the vehicle all the time and the app is not turned off? I was not aware of this process and went from one car to another without turning off the app. I just changed the vehicle profile and off we went but if this isn't right, I'll shut it down. Could this also be due to the reliability of the dongle and it's ability to communicate constantly?
I'm not exactly sure if it is the dongle or Torque Pro. But if you're not having problems, you can possibly continue.

Note leaving the dongle in the vehicle has been known to drain the battery as the OBD port remains powered. Also someone else could conceivably come along and perhaps connect to or hack into it...

There are some Torque Pro settings you can configure that may help:
  • Leaving your OBD-II device connected will drain your battery. Some people online have reported rather quick drains. The OBDLink MX tool I have has an option in the preferences to allow it to go to sleep after 600secs of certain conditions whilst still connected.
  • Start Torque on reboot- it will start automatically each time you power on your device- should be good for the surplus phone.
  • Allow device to turn off- sleeps the screen and allows the device (OBD-II dongle I assume) to turn off when external power is disconnected- so if you power the surplus phone via a USB power cable from the car, when you turn the ignition off things should stop. I'm guessing it will resume using the same protocol.
  • Use Airplane Mode- should disable comms i.e. bluetooth when external (USB) power is disabled so should again disconnect when the ignition is turned off.
RSR 555 wrote:Yeah, I can understand loss of bluetooth comms could cause an issue but it our case, we are leaving the dongle and android device in the car all the time and never removed (hence using an old phone that never gets used anymore).
If you're not having any problems, I wouldn't change anything.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Mon Apr 30, 2018 12:00 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:For example: I'd totally forgotten I must've created the PID subdirectory myself. Or perhaps adding them manually in the program (which you can do, it's in the preferences) created it...although now I come to think of it that may be the case because I think that's where I got the csv file structure from too to manually type up the PIDs and put them in the directory.
Thinking the same here too...

I did buy a new (4 inch screen) phone from BigW the other day and removed all the unwanted installs and rubbish stuff on the phone, then installed Torque Pro and Ghost Commander. I then went in to Torque Pro and openned up settings and clicked on manage PIDs, which was empty at this stage. I then clicked add predefined set and saw other other manufacture's cars but of course the Forester ones weren't there YET. I then closed out of everything and went ahead with the transfer of files via Ghost Commander.. and guess what.. there was the folder for PIDs :) So I'm thinking it might be easier to put this in the install process than what I did (creating folders) on my tablet.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
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Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Mon Apr 30, 2018 12:29 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:In case you get the Christmas Lights;
- Pull over safely (if somehow whilst driving).
- Power off vehicle.
- Exit Torque.
- Vehicle ignition on (no need to start).
- Start Torque.
- Select fault codes from main Torque menu.
- Tap to scan for faults.
- Confirm only fault is CANBus error (otherwise there are other issues).
- Select Clear Faults from ECU from top-right menu, you may need to do this a couple of times.
- Exit torque.
- Power off vehicle.
- Start vehicle and confirm Christmas lights (and any others not normally on) are gone.
Well it happened.. not the full christmas tree lights I was expecting but 5 or 6 warning lights appeared. Shut the engine down and checked for codes. U0073 (communication error) was the only code, so cleared with scantool and restarted engine, all good. Made it clear to Danielle that she needs to exit out of Torque Pro not just swipe it, which she assumed it would shut it down but obviously some things were still running in the background.
pitrack_1 wrote:Note leaving the dongle in the vehicle has been known to drain the battery as the OBD port remains powered. Also someone else could conceivably come along and perhaps connect to or hack into it...
We have left our Jaycar OBDII dongle in and had no experience of battery drainage but I would think that any draw these units would be able to pull out of the OBD port would be very minamal due to the size of wiring (in the car) and the construction of the electronics inside the dongle. I feel anyone having troubles with power loss, are having issues elsewhere and the dongle is highlighting it.

Thinking about this issue of someone coming along and 'hack into it' has me worried but what I'd found so far with bluetooth devices, is once one device is connected (and stays within range) then no other bluetooth device can... or is this wrong?
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

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pitrack_1
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Post by pitrack_1 » Tue May 01, 2018 3:47 am

RSR 555 wrote:Well it happened.. not the full christmas tree lights I was expecting but 5 or 6 warning lights appeared. Shut the engine down and checked for codes. U0073 (communication error) was the only code, so cleared with scantool and restarted engine, all good. Made it clear to Danielle that she needs to exit out of Torque Pro not just swipe it, which she assumed it would shut it down but obviously some things were still running in the background.
Sorry to hear that happened to you. Yes torque keeps running if it is just minimised/home-buttoned. Sometimes it keeps communicating (OK) or sometimes it suspends comms (not OK as might try to relatch at the wrong speed)...I think. It might have to do with logging, only keeping communicating if logging whilst not on screen. I thought there's an option to change this somewhere but can't find it.

Could I suggest you report this to Torque? I didn't report mine at the time, if I did so now tey'd argue newer versions are out, etc. Yours is a recent version with a recent device installed recently.
RSR 555 wrote:We have left our Jaycar OBDII dongle in and had no experience of battery drainage but I would think that any draw these units would be able to pull out of the OBD port would be very minamal due to the size of wiring (in the car) and the construction of the electronics inside the dongle. I feel anyone having troubles with power loss, are having issues elsewhere and the dongle is highlighting it.
Yes, me too. What I suspect happens with others is either the bluetooth part continuously draws current, or the OBD-II dongle keeps the car's computers from shutting down and they drain the battery.
RSR 555 wrote:Thinking about this issue of someone coming along and 'hack into it' has me worried but what I'd found so far with bluetooth devices, is once one device is connected (and stays within range) then no other bluetooth device can... or is this wrong?
With the cheap 'copycat' devices the password is usually "0000" or "1234" (if enforced at all) and the BT ID no is often a generic one. I'm not au fait with Bluetooth hacking or connection, but it is perhaps possible someone could connect/read out your device if left plugged in. It's not impossible...in fact I would say quite possible that if 'they' could connect to your device first and have the appropriate software they could do all sorts of mischief...like reprogram out your keys. See "CAR AUTOMATION with your Android Phone: OBDLink LX" on the Tube-of-U.

Note there is no security required here: no password, no confirmation, no encryption, nothing. As long as a device connects and communicates appropriately, it can not only getr readouts but issue commands.

You don't actually even need that, cars with wifi repeaters/hotspots installed have been found to be vulnerable to hacking through that- you could interfere with the car's software/programming. Think of how many cars you know of have firewalls, malware detectors, virus scanners installed and how often they are updated!
See for example "Hackers Remotely Kill a Jeep on the Highway—With Me in It" again on the Tube-of-U. Note the brakes are disabled remotely at one point and the car rolls into a ditch...with the helpless driver inside. Plenty of other links too.

Makes me want to go back to the 70's... at least if (sorry, when) your Leyland broke down, IT broke
down, not someone broke it down by breaking into it electronically...:mrgreen:
Patrick
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Wed May 02, 2018 11:19 am

pitrack_1 wrote:Sorry to hear that happened to you. Yes torque keeps running if it is just minimised/home-buttoned. Sometimes it keeps communicating (OK) or sometimes it suspends comms (not OK as might try to relatch at the wrong speed)...I think. It might have to do with logging, only keeping communicating if logging whilst not on screen. I thought there's an option to change this somewhere but can't find it.
Yeah, hers was not only "minimised" but also swiped to close/shut it down but clearly this wasn't enough.. lesson learnt I'm guessing.
pitrack_1 wrote:Could I suggest you report this to Torque? I didn't report mine at the time, if I did so now tey'd argue newer versions are out, etc. Yours is a recent version with a recent device installed recently.
Can do. According to app info, I'm running 1.8.199 I'm guessing that is the latest?
pitrack_1 wrote:Yes, me too. What I suspect happens with others is either the bluetooth part continuously draws current, or the OBD-II dongle keeps the car's computers from shutting down and they drain the battery.
No expert on ECUs but I'm going to assume the OBD port only allows access to the ECU's ROM chip and shouldn't have any commands over powering the ECU, only the ignition key turned to the 'ON' position will keep the ECU powered.
pitrack_1 wrote:With the cheap 'copycat' devices the password is usually "0000" or "1234" (if enforced at all) and the BT ID no is often a generic one. I'm not au fait with Bluetooth hacking or connection, but it is perhaps possible someone could connect/read out your device if left plugged in. It's not impossible...in fact I would say quite possible that if 'they' could connect to your device first and have the appropriate software they could do all sorts of mischief...like reprogram out your keys. See "CAR AUTOMATION with your Android Phone: OBDLink LX" on the Tube-of-U.

Note there is no security required here: no password, no confirmation, no encryption, nothing. As long as a device connects and communicates appropriately, it can not only getr readouts but issue commands.
Yeah I'm not au fait with them either but from what I have experienced, if my bluetooth device (tablet or phone) is connected (and never disconnected) to the bluetooth OBDII device, then no other bluetooth device can connect to my bluetooth dongle.
pitrack_1 wrote:You don't actually even need that, cars with wifi repeaters/hotspots installed have been found to be vulnerable to hacking through that- you could interfere with the car's software/programming. Think of how many cars you know of have firewalls, malware detectors, virus scanners installed and how often they are updated!
See for example "Hackers Remotely Kill a Jeep on the Highway—With Me in It" again on the Tube-of-U. Note the brakes are disabled remotely at one point and the car rolls into a ditch...with the helpless driver inside. Plenty of other links too.
Thank god I don't use icrap products. I cannot see this happening with bluetooth connected devices.
pitrack_1 wrote:Makes me want to go back to the 70's... at least if (sorry, when) your Leyland broke down, IT broke
down, not someone broke it down by breaking into it electronically...:mrgreen:
Classic old P76 or Mini which are now collectables. Pretty much fixable with a test light and a few tools.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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Post by pitrack_1 » Thu May 03, 2018 1:39 am

RSR 555 wrote:Yeah, hers was not only "minimised" but also swiped to close/shut it down but clearly this wasn't enough.. lesson learnt I'm guessing.
Good thing I warned you, eh!
RSR 555 wrote:Can do. According to app info, I'm running 1.8.199 I'm guessing that is the latest?
Yes as far as I can see. Here is the Torque changelog page. Note the next release (beta 1.8.202) will log the 'events' (fault codes) in a separate file- should be useful.

RSR 555 wrote:No expert on ECUs but I'm going to assume the OBD port only allows access to the ECU's ROM chip and shouldn't have any commands over powering the ECU, only the ignition key turned to the 'ON' position will keep the ECU powered.
Actually generally it shouldn't be accessing the "ROM" (Read Only Memory) ços that's where the programming is stored. The OBD-II should be accessing the various parameter variables stored in RAM that constantly change. And yes, these should be "readback-only" although you may be able to program (write) them through proprietary protocols.

However as the OBD-II port is mandated and set up in every car since ~2004 in Oz (and earlier O/S) and OBD-II only specifies a certain number of the pins for its use across several protocols, naturally the manufacturers used the already supplied port using the other pins for their own proprietary comms. Alternatively they can use different protocols/speeds on the same pins so long as it doesn't interfere with the OBD-II data.

Because the manufacturer can access the car, your appropriate software and hardware (your Snap-On scantool for example) will access these proprietary protocols so far as it is able. These give access to all the modules in the car and usually allow reprogramming, modification, ROM flashing/upgrades, etc. It is quite possible to 'brick' your car electronically if you do the wrong thing! See for example for Subaru Scoobyrom and romraider, both of which I never got into.
RSR 555 wrote:Yeah I'm not au fait with them either but from what I have experienced, if my bluetooth device (tablet or phone) is connected (and never disconnected) to the bluetooth OBDII device, then no other bluetooth device can connect to my bluetooth dongle.

I agree it is unlikely that the bluetooth OBDII dongle will allow more than one connection (not sure though) but other Bluetooth devices can and do...including car ones. I have had both my phone and tablet connected to my Jabra standalone unit in my older Mazda 3(phone for, well, phone and tablet for music relay through FM to the stereo) and I think I've had the tablet/phone combo again connected to my newer Mazda 3's head unit.
RSR 555 wrote:Thank god I don't use icrap products. I cannot see this happening with bluetooth connected devices.
If by icrap you mean Apple devices, then I don't like them either :grin: BUT firstly they do run Bluetooth and secondly the generally are more tightly controlled than Android devices. Bluetooth is merely a data communications protocol/method between devices just like wifi. What is transmitted across it depends entirely on the devices/applications using it. The main issue with wireless protocols is they enable you to access something without physical access. So if there is a security flaw in a system then someone could access the vehicle without actually gaining physical access to the vehicle. Also they can execulte the wireless equivalent of identity fraud- listen to your communications and 'spoof' (imitate) them, hijacking your communications. Not that I think this is likely unless the KGB/FBI/worse is after you!

Also remember that cars do have to be 'on' all the time now to a certain extent- for example they must 'listen' for the remote fob transmissions to unlock the car. They must monitor other functions. For example, our Mazda 2 runs various motors after stopping & locking dependent on what's hot- one is the cooling fans, the other is (I think) a transmission cooler pump after I've caned the car around the local hilly area.
RSR 555 wrote: Classic old P76 or Mini which are now collectables. Pretty much fixable with a test light and a few tools.
I'd like a Dolomite Sprint myself. Noticed a couple on gumtree in WA recently too.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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Post by RSR 555 » Fri May 25, 2018 8:41 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:If by icrap you mean Apple devices, then I don't like them either :grin:
Hi again Patrick :) well I knew this would happen. My friend has an issue with his 2017 Diesel Outback and guess what his phone is :( So, is there any difference in the setup? Or can I follow the same as what we did for my setup?
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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Re: 2010 Forester Diesel Dash Lights On

Post by rodmcdonald » Wed Mar 17, 2021 7:10 pm

Having similar issues with my 2010 Outback Diesel. What tool will allow me to perform the forced regeneration at home?

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Re: 2010 Forester Diesel Dash Lights On

Post by TOONGA » Thu Mar 18, 2021 9:48 am

rodmcdonald wrote:
Wed Mar 17, 2021 7:10 pm
Having similar issues with my 2010 Outback Diesel. What tool will allow me to perform the forced regeneration at home?
A good quality code reader with a regen function most cost over 2k second hand.

or something like this

https://store.autel.com.au/autel-maxich ... l_p39.html

what ever you get has to be canbus and Subaru compatible, the example linked is not.

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Re: 2010 Forester Diesel Dash Lights On

Post by TOONGA » Fri Mar 19, 2021 9:50 am

rodmcdonald wrote:
Wed Mar 17, 2021 7:10 pm
Having similar issues with my 2010 Outback Diesel. What tool will allow me to perform the forced regeneration at home?
apparently this scanner works with Subarus

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OBD2-Scanne ... 3891795296 , just under $75

good luck

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