EA82 L series, replacing oil pump seals
EA82 L series, replacing oil pump seals
hey i am looking to fix or at least quieten down the engine's usual *tick* *tick* noise on my 94/95 L serie's. ive read that it could be issues with the oil pump seals and/or the 'lash adjusters'? i was wondering if anyone could help with instructions on how to get to and replace the oil pump seals, and how exactly to get to the 'lash adjusters' to check them with out having to take the engine out and if possible with out taking the belts off.
i know its a pretty normal expectation to have the lifter ticking in the EA82 but it would be nice to dampen it a bit
any help would be muchly appreciated
i know its a pretty normal expectation to have the lifter ticking in the EA82 but it would be nice to dampen it a bit
any help would be muchly appreciated
Hmmm... You're out of luck I'm afraid! The cam belts must be removed to get to both of the cam carriers and the oil pump.
You can do this while the engine is in the car but I cannot help think it is far easier to remove it first. Removing the cam carriers is not difficult, just a big job! If you had to do this leaning over the guards it would be annoying to say the least! You may be able to remove/loosen one belt to get the oil pump off...
Your best bet would be to buy a Gregory's manual (or something similar - OEM Subaru manuals are great) so you can understand what is involved.
You can do this while the engine is in the car but I cannot help think it is far easier to remove it first. Removing the cam carriers is not difficult, just a big job! If you had to do this leaning over the guards it would be annoying to say the least! You may be able to remove/loosen one belt to get the oil pump off...
Your best bet would be to buy a Gregory's manual (or something similar - OEM Subaru manuals are great) so you can understand what is involved.
Old Boxer Tricks
1980 Brumby
1978 4WD Station Wagon
1974 DL Sedan
1974 GSR Coupe
1980 Brumby
1978 4WD Station Wagon
1974 DL Sedan
1974 GSR Coupe
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12511
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
Too right! Working on the oil pump without removing the cam belts really is asking the impossible!sublime wrote:Hmmm... You're out of luck I'm afraid! The cam belts must be removed to get to both of the cam carriers and the oil pump.
It's not hard to do it with the engine still in the car - if you know what you're doing! Learning as you go it'd be easier to do on a bench but you could do it still in the car for a real challenge. It would ultimately save you some time and cracking the cooling system open unless you're going to do the water pump at the same time.sublime wrote:You can do this while the engine is in the car but I cannot help think it is far easier to remove it first. Removing the cam carriers is not difficult, just a big job! If you had to do this leaning over the guards it would be annoying to say the least! You may be able to remove/loosen one belt to get the oil pump off...
As for checking the lash adjusters there's really nothing you can do by checking them once they're ticking. What you can do though is add a small spacer (2 or 3mm) to the oil pressure relief valve spring to keep the pressure where you want it. This has worked a treat for me recently, it's the first time I've used it but the engine is one of the quietest EA82s I've had. The manual will tell you where you need to do this.
Also make sure you replace the shaft seal, this is often missed and is the cause of sucking air into the oil system.
Cheers
Bennie
tried it and failed.........
the only way weve found to keep the ticking low is
keep the oil at max
theres a certain product that i cant remember, lifter somthing? that is added to the oil
turn the radio up
the only way weve found to keep the ticking low is
keep the oil at max
theres a certain product that i cant remember, lifter somthing? that is added to the oil
turn the radio up
if im needed for anything spike.pickstock.racing@hotmail.com and ill try and get back to you.
pickstock racing fabrication
pickstock racing photography
GETDIRTYCLOTHING
track day classics and customs
pickstock racing fabrication
pickstock racing photography
GETDIRTYCLOTHING
track day classics and customs
The additive is Nulon Lifter free and tune up.
I bought it from my local Auto 1 store.
Just tip the bottle into the engine along with the existing oil and off you go.
It may take a couple of hundred ks to get going but in my experiece it certainly works on the EA82 engine. That and keeping the oil at its max level helps too.
I bought it from my local Auto 1 store.
Just tip the bottle into the engine along with the existing oil and off you go.
It may take a couple of hundred ks to get going but in my experiece it certainly works on the EA82 engine. That and keeping the oil at its max level helps too.
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12511
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
Not really, it's more a PITA to put it all back together again then find that they're still making noise!KaFoomaN wrote:as for getting to the Lash adjusters, is that a hard or not, sorry about the questions im still a novice when it comes to cars :P
To do it you'll need to remove the cam sprockets, then the rear sections of the cam belt covers, from here remove the cam covers on the sides of the engine, 4 bolts Driver's side, 5 passenger's side.
Then remove the cam box - 8 bolts both sides. Make sure you've disconnected the distributor as it will come out in the cam box "assembly". Now the rocker arms should have all fallen to the ground, if not you're lucky. They'll all be there at some stage - if not when pulling it apart, then it'll be when you're trying to put it back together.
For someone doing this for the first time, I'd recommend pulling the engine so you're not doing your back in leaning over the engine bay all day trying to work it out
Cheers
Bennie