brumby brakes staying on / dragging

kona480 · Post by **kona480** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:55 am

Hi
it seems that when i am driving in traffic for a while and using the brakes the pedal really gets firm and the car doesn't roll easily as if the brakes are sticking. Could they need new brake fluid? I filled up with fuel and had used about a third of a tank at the end of the next day so there really is a problem. Has anyone had this happen?

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Feb 25, 2010 1:57 pm

sounds like the brake proportioning valve in the master cylinder is playing up either that or your rear or front brakes are locking on causing massive drag

TOONGA

kona480 · Post by **kona480** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:34 pm

TOONGA wrote:sounds like the brake proportioning valve in the master cylinder is playing up either that or your rear or front brakes are locking on causing massive drag

TOONGA

they seem to be locking on and dragging, even driving down the highway not using them at all, It seems when the car heats up they start doing it, as a result my tyres are worn and it guzzles fuel. Does anyone know how to fix it?
thanks

scoobymine · Post by **scoobymine** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:03 pm

Must be something to do with the brake pistons not retracting. Is your handbrake releasing when you take it off? If not the pistons will lock onto the caliper and you'll really know it.

wrxer · Post by **wrxer** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:14 pm

first you need to find out weather its front or rear wheels and all or some. after driving feel which rims are hottest. maybe sliders on front brakes are scored or dry/rusty. maybe rears are full of muck. maybe flexi hoses are flaking on the inside. you need to do more research. after driving jack each wheel up and turn it to see if sticking

kona480 · Post by **kona480** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:05 pm

It is the front wheels, I adjusted the handbrake and it helped a bit. When putting the foot brake on you can feel them not retracting properly so yeah it could be something to do with the pistons.

scoobymine · Post by **scoobymine** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:24 am

They can stick and almost seize in the bores. Usually that means an ovehaul is on the cards. You can do it yourself, but the handbrake attachment on the caliper is tricky and needs a lot patience. You could try bleeding them to flush out the old fluid, if it has'nt been changrd in yonks, they'll rust.

tex · Post by **tex** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 3:41 pm

Yeah id be checking that the hand brake is retracting properly myself, I had issues with mine because of rust and dust after it was sitting for a while!

wrxer · Post by **wrxer** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:44 pm

the pisons have square profiled seals and they deform when the brakes are pressed, when brakes are released the seals attempt to return to a square profile and this assists in the retraction of pistons, also the disc runout pushes the pistons back in their bores. things that inhibit this process are broken dust covers allowing dirt/rust to build up between piston and bore on atmosphere side of seals (this is why willwood calipers arent recomended for street use, as they dont have dust covers.) Build up of gunkbehind seals, mostly rubber debris. and most common is rusty/worn caliper slides, they need cleaning out and very light greasing, as a service item. get them moving with big screwdriver while they on the car still. sounds like they could use fluid change too as this should be done every year. if you have backed handbrake off this has eliminated this area. good luck

kona480 · Post by **kona480** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:11 pm

Last night I was driving in the city when i noticed the brake pedal felt wierd. It kept going in further and further until it was touching the firewall and I had no brakes. The pedal moved until about 1 cm from the end of the stroke where it grabbed just enough to hold me still in traffic. Luckily as i got driving the brakes came back. So i'm guessing they really need bleeding. How much would it cost to get them overhauled at a brake place and how long would it take?
thanks