I just signed up to AUSubaru for this very question. My husband has a Brumby and I am in the market for a Liberty Wagon BUT in the mean-time....
PROBLEM:
I'm driving my Mum's car (Ford Laser 1994). It appears the immobiliser isn't working. It's a category 2 immobiliser - the 'insert fob into dash-mounted slot and red light switches off' type.
POSSIBLE CAUSE:
I think I accidentally used the wrong immobiliser fob - I have two sets of keys on my key-ring at the moment. I can't be certain though.
STEPS TRIED TO REMEDY
I've unplugged the battery, tested the battery, checked the fuses...but the annoying little red light continues to blink.
When I insert the CORRECT fob it the red light switches off but when I try to start her up the dash-lights don't even light up. All that happens is a motorised-clicking sound that begins when I turn the key into the 'start-engine' mode, stops when key is back in second and first ignition positions and begins again, lasting for about 10 seconds, when I turn the ignition off all together and remove the key.
Has this ever happened to any one else? And does anyone know how to reset the immobiliser? Any help would be so gratefully welcomed!!!
Immobiliser trouble
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Pinkle Wiffle
- Junior Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:57 pm
- Location: Western Australia
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Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
Sounds like a flat battery or a bad connection between the battery and the started motor
Its the starter solenoid that is clicking, it clicks on when you turn the key, but because there isnt enough voltage from the battery to keep it on, it clicks back off again.
Check the connections of the big heavy cables that go from the battery to the starter motor as well as the cable from the battery negative terminal to the body.
Try charging the battery or jump starting the car.
Its the starter solenoid that is clicking, it clicks on when you turn the key, but because there isnt enough voltage from the battery to keep it on, it clicks back off again.
Check the connections of the big heavy cables that go from the battery to the starter motor as well as the cable from the battery negative terminal to the body.
Try charging the battery or jump starting the car.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Pinkle Wiffle
- Junior Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:57 pm
- Location: Western Australia
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Pinkle Wiffle
- Junior Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:57 pm
- Location: Western Australia
Success!!!!!
It worked! Phew! Even though we tried to jump start it with no luck it turns out it was the negative terminal on the battery after all. It had a lot of blue corrosion powder around it which must have just reached the point where it was blocking the connection. I'm glad it wasn't the immobiliser! Thanks for your help Suparoo!
:D:D:D:D:D:D
It worked! Phew! Even though we tried to jump start it with no luck it turns out it was the negative terminal on the battery after all. It had a lot of blue corrosion powder around it which must have just reached the point where it was blocking the connection. I'm glad it wasn't the immobiliser! Thanks for your help Suparoo!
:D:D:D:D:D:D