ea82t coil

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:47 am

brought a rx (3 plug 1987) which im fixing up, problem is coil was disconnected at some point and i dont know which wires go where?
could some one take a snap of there coil or direct me by colours?

i want spark really badly

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:38 am

This is gonna teach me for not keeping electronic notes on file...

these were near my final notes and should help. Search would have helped as I am sure I posted this detail..

EA82T 3 plug ECU Ignition Coil Wiring

EFI + A/C + Tacho

[+] POS terminal of coil

Three terminals connected

1. Black wire with red insulator on eye - goes to noise supressor mounted on strut tower

2. Black/white trace, black insulator on eye - it is the 12V POS ignition supply (this wire goes to loom below fuse link box that enters into inside the LHS guard)

3. Black/white trace, black insulator on eye - goes to the loom that goes off to dizzy and knock sensor in block

[-] NEG terminal of coil

Four wires connected

1. Yellow wire, black insulator, (is paired with black/white trace wire that goes to POS terminal, wire #2 above, further down wires). Goes to loom into LHS guard
MY NOTES SHOUT AT ME THAT THIS IS TACHO WIRE

2.Yellow wire withe yellow insulator on terminal eye (is paired with Black/white that goes to POS terminal wire number 3 above)

3. Black insulator has two wires on this one. First is thin BY or BW (dirty), second is thicker wire that is then shielded in grey. Just a concidence but enter loom below fusible links from coil. If disconnected my car runs YOURS may not - my fuel is LPG! and tacho works.

4. Yellow, with yellow? insulator went to white round connector then to aftermarket or dealer fitted A/C loom LHS, this is A/C amplifier signal box fitted up under behind the glovebox

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:43 am

I shoulda looked first

before typing it out

here it is...
showthread.php?t=13001

BRUMBI · Post by **BRUMBI** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:01 am

hey Shane i had them mark what goes were did the tape fall off

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:56 pm

POS [+]

3. Black/white trace, black insulator on eye - goes to dizzy side of connector of knock sensor (or its module)?

does this wire go to a connection straight after the coil? if so i have wired up as your directions say and still no spark

is there something little i could be over looking.

fuel pump works so its not the fuse within the car.

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 4:56 pm

new coil, new plugs still no spark. i have followed the instructions above all but one wire POS no#3 can someone tell me if there is a connection after the coil.

i have a single b/w wire coming of the engine side of the loom with a connection. but i have nothing to plug into it from the coil, maybe i just need this piece to get spark?

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 7:15 pm

when key is in on position

NEG [-] side of things i think is a ok

POS [+]

all have no power?

i unpluged my wire frome dissy to coil, and placed it straight on POS from the battery.... turned her over and almost fainted at the sign of spark.

so should all three of the posotive wires have current running threw them or just one? i know once connected together they will but which wire should be bring the power to the coil.

just re looked at the 2nd post, i guess i'll be tracing the 2nd wire finding out why its not delivering power.

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:25 pm

i love starting a post then talking to myself to the point i get it fixed.
the power supply to the positive side isn't carrying any current through to the coil, it is how ever powering the fuel pump... weird one.

i will just put a new wire in via a relay of the "on" position and all should be well.

got it running but it doesn't seem to want to rev, allmost as if there is a stupid amount of turbo lag. i guess i'll look tomorrow for vac leaks and what not.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 2:44 am

Time of post is 2:41 AM NSW

There is one wire in the loom between dizzy and coil that has a single B/W ? with a rectangular connector that is a diagnostic end point, so remains disconnected.

Answer to other questions needs more ZZZZZZ.... and then some notes perusal

IGN fuse ? looking at box is middle row, third one in from the LHS - from memory

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 3:35 am

post time now 3:30 am and not gone back to bed yet, waiting to try mug the easter Bunny

Ah maybe I shouldn't, it is prolly all that choccy keeping me awake !

I have corrected my numbering above

POS terminal, wire #2 is the one from ignition so should have 12 V + power supply when you turn ign ON with intention of starting engine, and nothing if key is in OFF, ACC, and dunno what it drops to in V when cranking - 8 Volts ?. I have in the past hot wired a coil in my Brumby to bypass the corroded out fusible link that caused heaps of problems.

DO CHECK your fusible links fisically.

To hot wire (the wire is still connected in my brumby coil with aligator clip insulated for future needs) my Brumby coil I supplied battery POS to pos terminal on coil instantly giving all ignition lights on dash CRANK CRANK no - I had to push to start with this circuit in place. A hot wire from battery to starter would have saved a push

SO, wire #2 at POS needs to have 12V positive power to power up coil then ignitor in dizzy has to do switching for coil to build up and dump spark don't it?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 3:42 am

you unplugged wire dizzy to coil and hit up to pos at battery. Which wire ?

fuel pressure an issue for not wanna rev up

timing an issue for not wanna rev up ?

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:28 am

ok i,ve had it running (hot wired) so maybe i just haven't found that 12v supply to the coil (meaning i only have 2 wires on to + side) and yes i was talking about the diagnostic end point (so i guess i can remove the wire i conected to the coil from here)

there was a relay near the coil that had been spliced into a wire under the dash, then had a wire coming off with a eye about coil size (i was unsure on what this was for maybe to supply power to the coil). maybe there was a problem in the past and this has been added. i guess i'll do this again.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:02 pm

anti theft device maybe?

Sometimes relays are added in start circuits for starter motor to reduce load on ignition switch. I once shoved an electronic ignition 1.5 litre Toyota Lite Ace motor and 5 speed Celica box in a Suzuki Sierra that was 1.0 litr 4 speed and had to add an extra ignition power supply to the coil just for cold starts using a momentary ON switch. Should not be the case with your project though. Test the wires going to the relay terminal 86 - if wired correctly, if this has IGN ON 12V it is likely your power source needed. I'd try bypass the relay. terminal 30 may go to battery, 85 earth and 87 or 87a intended to hook up to coil POS?

You've got it running you say.

You said that before.

So , is it running better or properly now being hot wired?

I have added to post #2 on pos 2 & 3.

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:48 pm

it runs just builds the revs up stuipidly slow, may be battery related as i turned the lights on and the car turned off.

batterys on charge well try tomorrow.