how risky is a loose captive bolt
how risky is a loose captive bolt
Heya, well the dreaded captive bolt separation has happened on my DL 1800.
the furthermost lift kit captive bolt on the passenger side axle has worked its way free due to off road fun. I have read up solutions which I wont be able to do without taking into a mechanic, so for now I am now having to considering risking driving it carefully just for essential driving.
I can see it may be very dangerous to drive, for instance loss of control under emergency braking etc, anyone have any suggestions? the two other captive bolts in that lift section are fine and solid. The hole where the captive bolt is loose has cracks coming off it.
the furthermost lift kit captive bolt on the passenger side axle has worked its way free due to off road fun. I have read up solutions which I wont be able to do without taking into a mechanic, so for now I am now having to considering risking driving it carefully just for essential driving.
I can see it may be very dangerous to drive, for instance loss of control under emergency braking etc, anyone have any suggestions? the two other captive bolts in that lift section are fine and solid. The hole where the captive bolt is loose has cracks coming off it.
Youll have to get a new nut welded to peice of flat bar, then weld the flat bar to the car.
Just be careful, cos if you keep driving it, the others will eventually come out.
Alex
Just be careful, cos if you keep driving it, the others will eventually come out.
Alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.
previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.
you really want an answer to that?RogDog wrote:ok all three supports have visable wear, i am wondering what may happen if i don't get this fixed in time, anyone have something drastic happen?
you must fix it pronto.
in meanwhile be kind with your braking, i'd bet you can hear/feel the flex that is happening.
plenty of threads on this forum about fixing it.
good luck
You could also buy a registered one and make some of the difference in money back by wrecking your current one and selling parts, also by handing in your plates and getting a refund on the remaining rego. It's legal at least.
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
just an update, I have cut away a small section of the floor and have put in a piece of 6mm flat bar with a threaded hole for the new bolt with a nut at the end, no welding necessary. everything seems secure and good. The middle one will need spot welding at minimum. For now i'll feel ok about driving it once i put in another piece of flatbar in for the furthest back captive bolt.
- El_Freddo
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It would probabily be best if you could weld the nut to the flat plate and the flat plate to the chassis rail once you've got the bolt back in (so you know its in the right spot) - this way you know it won't move. I would also look at replacing the other loose nuts with the same flat bar method rather than re-welding them.RogDog wrote:I have cut away a small section of the floor and have put in a piece of 6mm flat bar with a threaded hole for the new bolt with a nut at the end, no welding necessary. everything seems secure and good.
My 2c, ultimately its your subi and piece of mind...
Cheers
Bennie
cool yep, i really want to reinforce the whole area once i get my hands on a welder and practice using it. Ideally i'll reinforce both sides of the car when i get the chance. for now, no off-roading for me till it's attended to. im so stoked its all relatively secure again, just wish i had done it sooner now, lesson learnt.