EA81 into trike VW automatic

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 3:57 pm

do I need one of those white resisters on the coil???? fuses were good. power is at both sides of the coil, both wires in dizzy have power. still no spark?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 6:41 pm

Was the dizzy working when removed from the previous engine or its it not a known quantity? And is it electronic or mechanical (points)?

I'm not sure about the resistor side of things - if you run a resistor you might need to change the coil to one that is used in conjunction with a resistor...

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 8:10 pm

Stop press!!!!!

Neighbour arrived. he owns 12 cars....corvette, Plymouths etc. bit handy he is. He worked out that the issue was in the high tension wires. We fiddled for 10 minutes. We must have dome something because we tested the plug for spark and got it. We presume one of the ends of the HT wires wasnt home enough in its hole. (but I did check that?)

Anyway got a kick and it ran for 3 seconds then died. Then flat battery. The panther is wired that the headlights come on at all times the ignition is on. plus tailights etc.

So I'm happy. will video the next crack in the morning. I'll wire the electric fuel pump in properly to the ignition before I hit the starter.

3 seconds of joy!

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 10:46 pm

Well done.

What are the plans cosmetic wise for the motor?

The VW motor that was there looked rool purdy...can we expect the same detail to the EA81 once it is running & all sorted?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:12 am

Sounds good mate! Charge that battery and have another crack at it!

And I'm sure we all want a video of this beast running with that "sawn off" exhaust

Flames are what we want to see

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:37 am

Thanks guys. am about to go out there and give it a crack.

The silver and black colours look good to me. I will eventually look at chrome bits, coil cover, etc. even rocker covers. just a little here and there. There are green LED lights under that top box that shine on the engine so will be interesting when it all comes together. will get a pic of that too soon.

now...gotta hook up the fuel pump to the ignition and go!

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 11:26 am

This morning no spark again. to me there are three suspects....the coil, the electronic ignition in the dizzy of connections.

Connections. moved the coil to 6 inches from the dizzy and placed another HT lead from that to the D/cap. Tested that lead first copper inner and all ok. I only have the two leads form the dizzy to the coil, black on +ve yellow -ve. and one lead form +ve to battery.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:49 pm

Tweety wrote:This morning no spark again. to me there are three suspects....the coil, the electronic ignition in the dizzy of connections.

I've got a problem to sort out with Sunnie the Brumby when I get home - I'm pretty sure it's this little sucker in the dizzy as I've replaced the coil, checked the plugs and they look good. After the new coil she fired up, didn't really hold a steady idle for the first couple of seconds, idled really well for about 3 minutes then died. No spark again. So I'm going to ask FROG to order me one of these (should get on to that!):

Part number I hope:

If this is all my problem is and it's a relatively cheap fix I'll be stoked! It might be worth checking it out on yours but I've not read up on how to test this unit...

Cheers

Bennie

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:27 pm

Bennie I think you are on the money.

in desperation yesterday I hooked up a standard coil eg "not for electronic ignition" and that could have fried the module in the dizzy- exactly the same as your photo.

I've had a test light on each side of the coil and the light is the same strength. same as on those two wires in the dizzy- all strong glow say 13-14 volts my guess.

Checked spark wires and replaced a couple. Made sure HT lead coil to dizzy is home inside the hole.

Frog double checked the coil type (and Frog the correct number BIC-290 was on the box) and that is correct. And you cant fry them either. Got the feeling if I had points and only one wire it would start. gotta be that module. Suppose I have to extract the dizzy to get it out? mmmm drat

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:41 pm

Tweety wrote:Suppose I have to extract the dizzy to get it out? mmmm drat

I'm hoping not. You should be able to access all the required screws etc from the top of the dizzy with it on the engine... That's what I was planning to do.

I guess I better hit up FROG for a part and price

Hopefully not expensive as I've heard a replacement reconditioned electronic dizzy can go for $660!! Not what I want to be paying.

I have heard that the EA82 electronic dizzy can fit after some mods, might look into that

Cheers

Bennie

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 6:19 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Part number I hope:

not Subaru part number but it will help to narrow the search significantly (Andy likes vin numbers AND photos

)

Tweety wrote:And you cant fry them either.

Tony I've spoken to a few people today about this and they seem to think you can

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:02 pm

Well my dizzy is brand new form the US of A. So need likely jus tthe module. Buying a multimeter tomorrow to test that coil then will know more. process of elimination....like speed dating

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:15 pm

module testing procedure

http://www.ehow.com/how_4422228_check-i ... odule.html

interesting and seems easy.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:49 pm

another method- courtesy Ultimate Subaru forum

You don't have to check the module directly - verify power to the coil, and coil resisitance. If you get no pulse from the negative side of the coil with a test light while cranking - you have a bad module. Pretty much as simple as that.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:01 pm

update.

Can you guys beleive this???

It looks highly likely that the kill switch on my handlebars was "off". meaning I could turn over the engine but not start it.

damn!. Andy (Frog) and I are still investigating the coil because it has no difference on each side of it regarding resistance.

anyway it starts up. The timing was out and had to retard it then whoooo!!!

took a video and am busy trying to download programs to share it with you....stay tuned.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:43 pm

finally!

http://s804.photobucket.com/albums/yy33 ... yMovie.mp4

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:19 pm

One happy chappy!

BTW, why the moon boot? Trimalleolar fracture?

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:21 pm

Nice!!! sounds good as well.

Looked to be a lot of fuel still from the colour of the exhaust smoke.

Any ideas on what size main jets the weber has ?

TOONGA

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:23 pm

broke fibula above the ankle 4 weeks ago. Yeh the whole conversion was done from that wheelchair! Easy motor to get in when you dont have fenders and grills. just place it on a box and move it up to the tranny.

Tweety · Post by **Tweety** » Tue Aug 30, 2011 10:28 pm

Yeh Toonga... the timing was out somewhat- too advanced. so excess fuel was gunned in there trying to start it. as you can see it started easily this time comparded to earlier. it was really the 3rd time it was started and that was the longest time period it ran.

And the supplier of the weber told me it was jetted for the motor. take your point but too early days to conclude. mixture hasnt been touched from 2 turns out either. and timing is a real guess.. will wait now for the custom radiator and hook up. then will do all that stuff and see how she tunes.

I'm taking a real deep breath. for me it was quite an achievement. and thanks to you blokes too. and Andy (Frog)...you are all helpful and a pleasure.