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Just wondering if anyone has a lead on reasonably priced MC units for 86 L series wagon. Had one delivered but they want $350 biucks, seems a bit xpensive!

Regards pete

not knowing nething bout them...

id definetely say that is overpriced aswell.

either that or its one of the more expensive ones out there....whihc. if it is lookinto a Liberty Mastercylinder.

You might want to look into getting it honed and resealed (reconditioned). Most brake places can do this for you, should be a fair bit cheaper than buying a new one and pretty much as good. Alot of places keep reconned ones on the shelf and offer a change-over service. Just give them your old one and get a good one for a good price.

Have been reading older posts and see that the liberty 1 inch x 3 outlet fits straight in, so might see if supplier will swap, as that seems a better deal and worth the cash!

actually. ull have to be careful bout doing that. it culd screw ya brakes up.

Drum brakes need a 'Propertioning Valve' to work. where as discs all round wont need it.

if that valve is in the L series Mastercylinder then u cant change to one without or ull have very bad braking.

it is used to keep fluid in the Wheel cylinders at all times.

ull be okay if it is in the lines tho.

Drum brakes need a 'Propertioning Valve' to work. where as discs all round wont need it.

The thing you are refering to is actually called a Residual Line Pressure valve, and yes it is in the Master cyl, and you are correct in what you say it does, and they are easily removed as usually they are just a little flapper valve on the outlet port to the rear drum brakes and can be popped out.

The proportioning valve is always in the line somewhere, usually under the car and cuts off pressure to the rear brakes under extremely hard braking so as not to lock the wheels, and wont affect disc brakes, but the residual line pressure valve will most definitely affect disc brakes.

Busdriver wrote:Drum brakes need a 'Propertioning Valve' to work. where as discs all round wont need it.

The thing you are refering to is actually called a Residual Line Pressure valve, and yes it is in the Master cyl, and you are correct in what you say it does, and they are easily removed as usually they are just a little flapper valve on the outlet port to the rear drum brakes and can be popped out.

The proportioning valve is always in the line somewhere, usually under the car and cuts off pressure to the rear brakes under extremely hard braking so as not to lock the wheels, and wont affect disc brakes, but the residual line pressure valve will most definitely affect disc brakes.

Haha thanks....had it mixed up.

but still it means he cant change to a Liberty master cylinder with drum rears.

That's true,unless he wants his rear brakes to drag a little bit??????...........

Busdriver wrote:That's true,unless he wants his rear brakes to drag a little bit??????...........

Drag???

my understanding was that they would drag if u had discs and still had the Residual Pressure Valve.
and that with drums if you didnt have it wuld give a longer pedal travel as the wheel cylinder wont be 'as full'.

How hard can it be?
If you have drum brakes, leave the proportioning valve in. Simple.

I'm pretty sure the L series has this external to the master cylinder so it won't matter when you swap to a Lib master cyl anyway.

AndrewT wrote:How hard can it be?
If you have drum brakes, leave the proportioning valve in. Simple.

I'm pretty sure the L series has this external to the master cylinder so it won't matter when you swap to a Lib master cyl anyway.

you havent read to well have you

Had a look under the beast this morning, there is some sort of brake valve device at the rear near the rear axle, not sure if it is just a splitter or the valve you are referring to.

not sure mate.. culd be the proportioning valve aswell.

can i ask why u need a new master cylinder?

Proportioning valve is near the rear passenger side wheel, with 4 lines going to it.

I have fitted a disc/drum L master to my disc/disc L baby and the brakes are great according to the feel and have given no grief in 5000 kms.

Incidentally I got a better brake meter reading with the leaking MC that the replacement?? Former did not have the front brake bite I feel was needed

if you have too much front bias the car will nose dive alot more and feel like it's braking hard, but will be less stable and won't stop as quick. I did a big brake conversion on the front of my old car and while it felt like it would stop harder it was too easy to lock the front wheels and the original setup was better. I had plans to even it out with bigger brakes on the rear, but the rust bug got to it before i did. too much playing in the salt pans...

Hi Matatak, reason for new MC was that when sitting at lights with foot on brake, pedal slowly goes to floor! Not a nice feeling and mechanics at work tell me that tis the master cylinder bypassing or something!!

scrumpy wrote:Hi Matatak, reason for new MC was that when sitting at lights with foot on brake, pedal slowly goes to floor! Not a nice feeling and mechanics at work tell me that tis the master cylinder bypassing or something!!

yer will be the MC if there is no external leaks.

but like AndrewT said earlier on. should only need a reseal and hone which can be done by urself. but is easier to take into a shop.

generally cost round 150 when i get them done.
altho some more complicated ones have cost up to 300.

at a guess it wuld be cheaper than that $350 one LOL

? i've read perfectly fine?
If it's an L series he can whack a Liberty master cylinder in without any problems at all. Drum brakes or disc.

AndrewT wrote:? i've read perfectly fine?
If it's an L series he can whack a Liberty master cylinder in without any problems at all. Drum brakes or disc.

u said leave the proportioning valve in.

when it was the Residual Line Pressure Valve whihc needs to be worried about lol.

and no1 has confirmed wether that is in the MC or in the Lines. which is the important part in all this. weve got some conflicting opinions on it tho lol