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Hey y'all

Just a quick ask ...were be the best place for parts in Perth (north of the river), ie gaskets and bits. I've just bought a '83 sportswagon that needs a bit of a service and attention but my local supercheap and repco seem to be lacking in specific parts, rocker cover gaskets to be specific . Any help would be apprheciated.

Thanks in advance
Kaffine

Subaru !.... genuine prices aint to bad.
Hi-Tech in Osb park
Conventries.

OS

Oversteer wrote:Conventries.

LOL! That's spelt Coventrys.

Subaru generally aren't too bad on their pricing, but I've had some pretty bad quotes in the past. For simple parts like rocker cover gaskets I'd imagine they'd be OK.

Oh - and a tip would be when asking for parts for your car, unless its something wagon specific like tailgate struts I'd say I have a same year Brumby. Parts interpreters get confused when you ask about stuff for Subaru wagons, but all the books are straight forward when it comes to Brumby. Nothing mechanical is different on the Brumby either.

tim_81coupe wrote:I'd say I have a same year Brumby.

Great tip, I discovered this too, first time I asked for spark plug leads at repco the computer said "1983 Leone/DL Wagon EA81" and I was handed L series leads, I've ask for brumby leads every since and got the right ones every time.

Jordan.

Try Odins auto spare parts..Balcatta rd
They have good knowlege of subies and can find most things

Odins.... hmm I live just up the road and have had dealing with odins for many many years..... if your desparate on a Sunday for subi parts they may be worth a shot(but generally they no nothing about subi`s). They get all thier parts from coventrys( ) anyway soooo.....

I`d go to Kinsellas Auto1 up the road before Odins, Odins just arn`t the same since 2 of the owners no longer work the counter.

OS

east coast and freight 8O

Note that i am anly blowing off as I was chasing a list last week (u no the list for my rebuild) tried Conventries ( ) - sorry Tim the 1 up here near me - and it was just not worth the trouble as they had some bits and not others and they were unsure if they would actually fit (having ea82T prob not help either).

Yeah your right Jaffa, the average guy behind the counter at Coventrys is not a shadow on Tims ability.......... they do have what you want, but it takes more than the average don`t give a sh*t dude to find it !

East coast and frieght, yep your onto somthing there....but even better is USA, JP, Sing, HK and frieght !!

One easy fix Jaffa......get a ^%#& decent engine EJ EJ EJ EJ EJ EJ EJ EJ20T

OS

[quote="Oversteer"]One easy fix Jaffa......get a ^%#& decent engine ]

I would love 1, however the theme 4 this morning... easier said then done, Oh and a lil more $$$

Several low k EJ20G`s have sold recently for ~$5-800.... you just gotta have the money there at the right time.

OS

Yer but also require ecu/loom/dash stuff mods mods mods and time, at least my ea82t is a straight forward plug n play - i hope.

The motor that sold for $500 recently included ECU and loom !.... stripped down ready for install(just like Tims, Andrews etc) with labled connections(about 7 wires) it fairly easy to fit.

You don`t need dash stuff....and you could go with the adapter plate to you existing box, I`m sure Dave could help you out with that.

And you already have a big enuff exhaust

Just think of the power...... ~60-70Kw atw to ~140kw(std EJ20G@14psi) atw.

You know you want it !

OS

I know i want it to however its not going to happen

There is 1 VERY low km Jap Import EA82T sitting on my gargae floor.

Oh and just to make things even more interesting we pick up the engine with a trailer and the car ran like 1 legged horse, however thismorning it was on fire - with the exception of the idleing problem.

Look like we we will see how good RAC mech are on Monday (we have free inspection)

Oversteer wrote:Yeah your right Jaffa, the average guy behind the counter at Coventrys is not a shadow on Tims ability.......... they do have what you want, but it takes more than the average don`t give a sh*t dude to find it !

Only just noticed this. Thanks

Tim i could not agree more. You would be ashamed on the service, actually feel free to inform your management that after getting your knuckles wrapped that they just $300 in 1 buyer alone in the last week... they might change their minds.

Thanks for the offer of help as well.

I will contine to update = import is now on my garage floor - i have not unwrapped it yet however its look the goods... well except for the timming cover they broke in freighting it here

Will now more about transplant options/timetablenext week

WOW thanks all I have the list written up and put on the garage wall..Got the gaskets from Coventrys in O/Park the last two mind you and they were recommended from Regents as having some..I'm already getting used to the "GEE thats an old model"..

Side story ..after only getting the car last weekend and going thru the usuals checks I realised one of the front inner CV boots was torn so I popped around to Alans CV repairs "seem like a nice guy" $100 for both boots installed (hope I didn't get ripped) but he rang me back saying the last time the C/V parts were replace they put them in backward thus needing a gas axe to get them out. He said keep care of them and consatntly check the boots and you should get a fair few k's out of them yet.

Thanks again
Kaffine

Gas-axing CV joint's out? WTH? Of all the CV joints I've replaced (approx 129 billion ) I've never needed a gas-axe. I've had them the wrong way around internally too. I did cut an axle once to just use the outer, but that was before I had a good bench vice and I couldn't remove the joint from the axle.

$100 sounds fairly good for the boot swap, remember to do the swap both inner CV's have to be removed entirely, easiest way would be on the hoist and do it on the vehicle. It is a greasy, messy job but once you've done it a few times its quite simple.

Another thing too, when you hear them start to click, you can actually swap the complete axles left to right, it shifts the wear pattern and gives you a few more thousand k's of life.

My wagon goes through front CV's roughly every 4500km's and rear CV's every now and then. My coupe goes through a rear CV every second 7000rpm launch and my new sedan needs new front CV's, which I'll do some time next week. So you could say I'm getting good at doing CV joints.

I agree with all the suggestions. Kaffine... hurry up and get your car sorted so u can come break it with us.

U may have seen my hatch up your way.... im in Karrinyup rather often.

Dave

Don't worry I'm on the case. The missus is getting used to seeing my legs extruding out of the bottom of my car, the use of her OMO washing powder as hand cleaner and I've heard the term 'grease monkey' being used more and more often. I'm slowly getting my 5 year old boy to understand that what I'm doing Isn't WORK its FUN..

I'll post this in a more relevent area but I'm finding the more I fix annoying sounds eg. Exhaust gaskets and flanges the more I'm hearing other annoying sounds eg, rear speaker chatters on metal support in back gate also lifter chatter (EA81). I've had the rocker covers off and checked the gap and it seams fine even when I rotate the main shaft slightly so the rockers are at there most loosest point ..any help or sugestions??

p.s I have a workshop manual (gregorys) so I have a general idea what to do but........

Thanks heaps

Just a little hint about the Gregorys, they're a bit wrong sometimes.


For instance if you go to the section on engine removal it talks you through removing the engine mounts from the engine. That's a greasy, slow, knuckle jarring way of doing it, I just remove the engine mounts from the crossmember. Simple, clean and quick.


I could go through a few other examples, but a general tip is to take everything the book says with a pinch of salt.