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some Qs on various EJ subarus
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 7:07 pm
by fredsub
got some questions for the forum brain trust......as I have zero experience with the EJ model subarus
- generally what sort of km does a EJ motor tend to require like head gaskets or other major service?\
- whats the service schedule for timing belts?
- is 220kkm still a good goer on averages?
- any pitfalls to say a 2gen 1998 outback?
- is $12,990 a good price ?
- or a liberty, eg 2GenMY98 GX (is that AWD ?)
what would it take to make it a decent offroad package, re suspension etc?
- Forester - the cargo area really is f**** small isn't it?
- ABS - are they all 4 channel ABS?
- whats the general pitfalls and things to look for on these vehicles?
- wheres rust most likely
- remind me, these are interference engines if the timing belt carks it, right!
- is anyone confident of taking one of these to a remote location - solo - and fix problems if they arise? EJs are not as simple as the ea82 are they?
no arguments please, just factual response thanks
lol,check this one
http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-car/SUB ... 31741.aspx
but i don't think to fancy a twin-turbo type for off-road touring....and the fuel tank wouldn't get you far i reckon.........
Thanks to all.
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 7:44 pm
by Brumby Boy
I know the service schedual for these cars backwards
timing belts are every 100,000 kms along with coolant, engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil, spark plugs, fuel filter etc etc,
1998 will be AWD
i know it will have abs, but 4 channel i dont know
220,000 isnt too bad for a sooby provided its been looked after
you can get lift kits for pritty much any soob out there they start at about $500 i think
not sure about the other stuff
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 8:05 pm
by waggaclint
water pumps can leak as can headgaskets timing belt tensioners loose there tension...cam seals normally leak oil as does the rocker covers...id say a ej with 200odd thousand kms on it would need all of the above..ive also seen oil pumps leaking and crankshaft seals...they very rarely stop or break down but hey....mainly only oil leak problems....
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 8:28 pm
by Brumby Boy
Yea if you replace the cam and crank seals and tentioners and idlers every time you do the belt you wont have a problem and will save a lot of time
the cam cover gaskets are a pice of piss to do the right hand rear cam o ring is another good one to leak if you ever have to do a clutch always do the rear main
and reseal that other cover in the bell housing
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 8:55 pm
by Suby Wan Kenobi
Turbos are more thirstier than thier NA counterparts in general driving but on a long trip they arent that bad on fuel.
12k is an ok price for a 98 outback
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 8:59 pm
by AlpineRaven
1. generally what sort of km does a EJ motor tend to require like head gaskets or other major service?
EJ25 Can blow the headgaskets - so check with the owner when buying, EJ22 is unlikely (had 2 EJ22s - one did 70,000kms un-known history before I got it due auction and this one I have hasn't been replaced yet now at 250,000kms) - Unknown/unsure about EJ20s and EJ18/16.
2. whats the service schedule for timing belts?
100,000kms
3. is 220kkm still a good goer on averages?
Check the compression and service history and check blackness in exhaust and engine oil - ask owner when oil was last changed, if its gold then its a good sign.
4. any pitfalls to say a 2gen 1998 outback?
Nothing - They're very good cars - wish got outback but got 96 liberty instead.
5. is $12,990 a good price ? I would say so yes, if you could get 11,500 then its an bargin - depending on history and condition.
6. or a liberty, eg 2GenMY98 GX (is that AWD?) - It should be, I think Subaru stopped selling FWD GXs in 1996, after 1996 was AWD, but LX models are both FWD & AWD, but check if its FWD or AWD by checking rear diff.
what would it take to make it a decent offroad package, re suspension etc?
Outback suspensions - still not solid info - Under progress of researching at the moment - looked at forester struts and outback - Forester struts are taller.
7. Forester - the cargo area really is f**** small isn't it?
Agreed. But don't like the drivers side & interior in Foresters.
8. ABS - are they all 4 channel ABS?
Yes.
9. whats the general pitfalls and things to look for on these vehicles?
1. wheres rust most likely - Windscreen - just pull the rubber around it a bit and see if you see any bumpiness and rear tail gate door at bottom of the window. (ive seen a couple of Liberty have them) Apart from that they're way improved since L series.
Check and make sure the gearbox changes gears smoothly, on manual trans check any crunchiness (NB - change gears fast!)
10. remind me, these are interference engines if the timing belt carks it, right!
I forget! heh
11. is anyone confident of taking one of these to a remote location - solo - and fix problems if they arise? EJs are not as simple as the ea82 are they?
I find EJ22s easy to work on since i am used to EFI engines, not carby. I find my way around EJ22s easily, if you read the computer error codes then you'll find way around to it..
Good Luck
Cheers
AP
Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:59 am
by fredsub
Thanks, some great answers.
Sounds like need to be more proactive with servicing the EJs (rather than reactive,lol! with the ea82t...)
So, if i'm uncertain with service history, just get timing belts replaced, water pump, (i've seen mine after 185kkm+whatever the import motor had - worn to useless)
Another question, tools...I got the 36mm socket for castle nut, and 22mm for crank pulley,19mm for wheel nuts for the Lseries, what do I need for Outbacks or Liberty ?
Any other special tooling you can think of?
Thanks
Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 8:57 am
by AlpineRaven
fredsub wrote:Thanks, some great answers.
Sounds like need to be more proactive with servicing the EJs (rather than reactive,lol! with the ea82t...)
So, if i'm uncertain with service history, just get timing belts replaced, water pump, (i've seen mine after 185kkm+whatever the import motor had - worn to useless)
Another question, tools...I got the 36mm socket for castle nut, and 22mm for crank pulley,19mm for wheel nuts for the Lseries, what do I need for Outbacks or Liberty ?
Any other special tooling you can think of?
Thanks
I forget what socket you need for the castle nut & crank (will have to go outside to check).... But yes the wheel nuts are the same as L series - 19mm....
If the 2.5 Litre is DOHC you need timing sproket thing to keep the timing aligned together - its ideal to have but not recommended. Um.... I cant think from top of my head of what else you need... I've removed diff, gearbox and engines from EJ22s but I dont think there is "special" tools needed.
Cheers
AP
Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:01 am
by AlpineRaven
fredsub wrote:Thanks, some great answers.
Another question, tools...I got the 36mm socket for castle nut,
Thanks
Now it came in my head.. its 32mm for the castle nuts.. yes I also have 36mm for L series thought would be handy but it wasnt...
Cheers
AP
Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:16 pm
by fredsub
Well I did get an Outback '98. Looked very looked after.
only prob is a bit of a clunk on the LHS going over hole, or driveway kerb.
i'm not exactly over the moon about it...I guess miss the Lseries.
Power steering and air-con is ok i guess.

theres a bit more room in it too. Its not as much fun to drive tho! A bit too nice to go ripping in to the furniture to add uhf cb,flouro lights,switches etc,etc.
Anyway had a close look at the undersides today....laying under it, got a bit discouraged about ever lifting it actually, raised springs is all i'm going to do I reckon.
Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:33 pm
by AlpineRaven
fredsub wrote:Well I did get an Outback '98. Looked very looked after.
only prob is a bit of a clunk on the LHS going over hole, or driveway kerb.
i'm not exactly over the moon about it...I guess miss the Lseries.
Power steering and air-con is ok i guess.

theres a bit more room in it too. Its not as much fun to drive tho! A bit too nice to go ripping in to the furniture to add uhf cb,flouro lights,switches etc,etc.
Anyway had a close look at the undersides today....laying under it, got a bit discouraged about ever lifting it actually, raised springs is all i'm going to do I reckon.
Congratulations! Sounds like you got a good buy.. the clunk - check the LHS suspension (unlikely) but its possible the muffler - had clunk noises from the muffler when I got my 96 Liberty.
Cheers
AP
Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 11:37 pm
by brumbyrunner
fredsub wrote:Anyway had a close look at the undersides today....laying under it, got a bit discouraged about ever lifting it actually, raised springs is all i'm going to do I reckon.
Why???????
Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:39 pm
by Smokey
That's great Congrats Fred!!!!
U will love her in time... My wife drives the 95 Liberty Sedan and though i love my L i love to drive the liberty too. Strong engine and great response from under 2K RPM, I can't imagine what a turbo must feel like or a blower. And mine is only the 2.2, i guess you have the SOHC EJ25? It handles great and even only in FWD handles some pretty tuff stuff so long as I really pick the track and don't mind a few scrapes underneath. With just over 200K now I need new springs and shocks but that's about it so far. The outback would have stronger springs so should be good for life or least would do most people. I'm sure you will find a lift that is suitable maybe not yet but in a few years when you get used to the car and feel ready to start bashing and customising to your liking.
Smokey
Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 11:16 pm
by Jack
We've got a 99 Outback (SOHC EJ25) which we bought new in April 99. Done 135,000km, mostly around town with the long distance holiday trips thrown in for good measure. Don't do any hard off-roading in it - just some dirt roads every now and again.
Have had it serviced every 12,500km as per the book. 100,000km service was pretty expensive and it payed to shop around (quotes ranged from $700 to $1,200).
negative comments:
- headlights are woeful. Upgraded with +50 xenon low beam, and 100w halogen high beam. Also fitted auxillary driving lights.
- OEM suspension was too soft for our liking. Replaced with KYB struts and 20% heavier king springs.
- stock height was too low for off-roading - kept hitting the woeboys on dirt roads. Fitted 2" body lift and 1" suspension lift.
- approach and departure angle are worse than L series / Forester. Fitted a subaxtreme front bar to help the front. Should've also fitted one on the back but too late now as they're no longer available.
- OEM cargo barrier rattles now and again. Tie the esky to it with an okky strap takes away the rattle.
- difficult to find an all terrain tyre in 16" rim size. I think 98 models (? gen 1 outbacks) had 15' rims so this might not be a problem for you.
- can't fit a larger than OEM size tyre in the spare wheel well.
- OEM battery was damn small. We replaced it with a larger one (had to fit a new tray, and it's snug, but has more available power than the OEM battery)
- had a head gasket fail around the 80,000km mark
- low range is bugger-all. Expensive to replace with aftermarket reduction gears
Positive comments:
- comfortable
- engine is generally trouble free
- quiet
- stock we got 8.5 litres per 100km on the highway, 10 litres per 100km around town. Now with the extra wind reststance fromt the lift and bullbar, we get 10 litres per 100km town and highway.
- body / doors / dash is still rattle free after 8 years use (only the cargo barrier rattles now and again)
Jack
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:30 am
by fredsub
Thanks for the comments Jack,
funny that the OEM shocks are made by KYB, i'm getting the raised king springs, as the shocks are still ok, i'll see how it goes. If i'm not satisfied,yeah new KYBs - I do like a firmer ride.
Approach/departure angles - yes not good, and to me it looks like a replacement bar won't hugely fix it.
Turn circle isn't as tight as an Lseries, so manoeuvring on tight trails would be pita,
its a GEN2 with 16" rims.I had thought there were a fairly decent tyre selection, but maybe not.
Maybe larger spare if deflated? and just carry a small compressor.
As for a lift, I am thinking its a waste of effort, as it will still never be as capable as the Lseries, and if on the front suspension, the trailing part of the control arm is just a block, i'm not too happy about the extended moment force around the bolt - the car is heavier too. And then down the track, back into the regime of fixing things with da welder!!
OEM batteries are always small! but theres room for a bigger one.
As for getting attached to this one (like i was to the Lseries one,lol!) Nah, don't think so, I'll try an look after this one 1yr+ maybe and research/look at what proper 4wd i want.....
Re: Timing Belts
Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 9:49 pm
by SUBYDAZZ
2. 100,000km or 4 years whichever comes first - rubber does perish over time
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:09 pm
by AlpineRaven
SUBYDAZZ wrote:2. 100,000km or 4 years whichever comes first - rubber does perish over time
Also on the top of that.. leaky oil downgrades the age of timing belt...
Had an Camira once and did leak oil on the belt.. hence it snaps..
Cheers
AP