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Considering buying a Brumby?

Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:20 am
by black05mcs
Hi

I am considering getting a Brumby as a project?

Is there any standard things to check:
- where are the 'usual' rust spots
- what are the 'look out for' items
- I see lots of bent crossmember comments - is that a weak spot?
- what's a good price for a starter

I'm sure there's heaps of other Qs, but that's the start.

Thanks in advance
Chris

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:18 am
by Brumby Boy
Usual rust seems to be under the windscreen moulds, and alond the back of the cab/tray join and i have seen a few with the doors with plenty of rust in them. havnt heard of bent cross members myself but maybe,
for a good condition and low km brumby expect to pay up to 7 or 8 grand.
Kms arnt realy an issue on better my's and they will go and go and go even with plenty of abuse.
i payed 5300 for my 1990 brumby with 250,00km's and all she needs is a bit of tlc but she is in generaly good condition

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 6:18 pm
by dfoyl
Rust around the front windscreen is right, definitely the worst spot for them. Oddly enough, the tailgate seems to be one area that rarely rusts - which is lucky because they're darn hard to find.

CV's are always an issue, especially if it's a country vehicle or has been off-road a fair bit. The engine will last practically forever, but get used to oil leaks :rolleyes:

Parts readily interchange from the wagons, with the exception of doors (common to the coupe) & glass (only found on the Brumby). I think all post-85 had hydraulic lifters, otherwise there's not much between an 82 and a 93.

Dean.

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:05 pm
by subgiraffe
where'd all the other posts go?

I was going to say that you should keep an eye out for bargain brumbys - I picked up mine with 140k, a couple of minor dents in bonnet, tailgate and wing; blown manifold gaskets ($20 for genuine replacments) for 1k :D Realistically though, I would expect to pay around the 3-5k mark.

As for rust spots, I think they are similar to MY's - check door sills; windscreen surround, behind the rear wheels etc..
- CV's are common issue for any MY (not hard to fix)
- bent crossmember - never heard of it at the front, do you mean the rear "moustache" bar?? -- if so, this is pretty easy to take care of.
- it's an ea81- it should be dribbling a bit of oil, smoking a little, sounding rough and good for another 200,000kms

Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:13 pm
by subgiraffe
PS. afaik: All brumby's were made with EA81, so all are push-rod, no hydraulic lifters

Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:08 pm
by steptoe
One of my EA81 s had hydraulic tappets and pushrods. Old Falcons had pushrods and hydraulics too, so push rods and hydraulics do go together.

If only we all went to Subaru at the same time and asked for a price on hydraulic lifters for 90 model EA81 - as far as they are concerned EA81s were all solid !!