92 L series heater fan failed.

RubysueEA82 · Post by **RubysueEA82** » Fri Feb 10, 2017 7:08 pm

I'm going to go postal I think...

I've hunted the internet to find a PDF of the factory manual...

Downloaded 300+ pages...

Section 6-2, the wiring diagrams for the rest of the car, hasn't been included, ffs.

Has anyone got a wiring diagram?

Please

before I burn the car in a fit of non air conditioned rage :P

Cheers

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Feb 11, 2017 8:30 am

I don't think I've got a copy sorry.

But does the fan test ok?

Checked your fuses (not blown/continuously blows)?

Any fuses at the battery/in the battery area for AC etc?

Any recent wiring mods - stez installs etc?

I hope it's something simple!

What year and GL or DL model? What type of AC system is fitted?

Cheers

Bennie

RubysueEA82 · Post by **RubysueEA82** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:40 pm

I learn't a bit more about it yesterday. It's blown the two parallel heater fuses before and indeed that'd happened again. New fuses held until I went to 4th fan speed and then popped promptly. (lower speeds didn't work anyway)

Rooted about a bit with the heater fan wiring, the 2 pin plugs at the fan motor itself and the overlaid A/C wiring have been a bit toasty but that's not highly unusual for a car of this age.

Without a load lamp to diagnose with I resorted to overrating the fuses. Factory 2 x 15a is a 30a total... so I put a 25 + 30 and then went looking. Short bursts of turning the fan switch on allowed me to check voltages at the fan & the fan speed resistor. The telling clue was the burning smell coming from the vents even with a only a second or two of fan.

Pulled the heater fan resistor out, lo and behold it was full of leaves and bugs and shit. More interestingly, it has a thermal cutout built into it, most novel. Seems when things get a bit hectic, the solder melts off this component and it then springs free of the resistor circuit... and short circuits to the frame... ffs!

Stuck it back together with a bit of solder, reassemble, replace correct fuses and away she went.

However I still don't fully understand how the circuit works. Seems to have an accessory supply to the fan and then speeds are switched to ground?

Anyhoo... we'll carry on for now. Think I'll rip the heater fan and resistor out of the wreck before it goes to the wrecker.

Cheers

Anthony

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 2:45 pm

RubysueEA82 wrote:
However I still don't fully understand how the circuit works. Seems to have an accessory supply to the fan and then speeds are switched to ground?

Anyhoo... we'll carry on for now. Think I'll rip the heater fan and resistor out of the wreck before it goes to the wrecker.

Cheers

Anthony

I've never seen a circuit diagram for the L series fan, but the MY/Brumby interior fan is switched this way. ACC power goes through the fan motor to the 4 position switch, which routes it through the 4 speed/resistor to ground. Also the A/C control wire is attached to the switch so the clutch etc only come on when the fan is running.

Congrats on finding the problem!

tony90 · Post by **tony90** » Fri Mar 03, 2017 8:04 pm

Here's fan circuit/ fault diagnosing.
Note not shown is the bundle of wires attached to the fan switch.
I assume the extra wiring is for the AC harness.

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tony90 · Post by **tony90** » Fri Mar 03, 2017 8:13 pm

I'm fitting a hybrid ea81/82 AC to a turbo Ea82 Brumby.
I left out that that the ea82 fan switch has about 8 or 9 wires coming out, into 2 sockets.
Obviously one to the resistor and other to AC harness, + earth
Brumby has 4 out of switch.
The 2 switches are physically different sizes and haven't progressed further.