The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

G'day to all fellow Subaru gearheads. I am looking to forward to learning and hopefully contributing something useful to this great online community.
cheers

hello and welcome back at ya

Maybe the 17 year old can reduce the size of your photo to something a little less ..... make him earn his keep!

What are your plans for this - use and upgrades ?

Thanks Steptoe, had to consult him on how to fix it. He's only 9 so more interested in iPhones and iPads than doing up cars for the moment.
I just want to get the brumby as clean and straight as possible until I collect all the parts (and money) for an ej turbo running gear conversion. Then I might just use it to get the newspapers on a Sunday or turn it into a hill climb beast.

G'day mate!

What part of Western Victoria? That's the large end of the cheese slice

Cheers

Bennie

G'day Bennie,
Great Western is where I'm at without any cheese producers that I know of, only wine! It is a small town so I don't want the inter web world to easily find out what is hiding in my shed, so I omitted the Great.
Your write ups and info are great. I have learnt a lot reading your posts.
Cheers,
Justin

Ah yes I know where you are. Big vineyard and winery in the middle of town

Nice location!

Cheers

Bennie

Justin, I saw your post on USMB for a set of XT6 hubs/etc. Have you thought about sourcing a ********* kit locally ?

Alternatively, there is a way of converting MY rear drums to hubs - a Qld board member made me aware of it, but I haven't really looked in to it. My main concern is whether the thickness of the drum is thinner than the XT6 hubs...

G'day dfoyl, I thought a crossbreed kit was rarer than the xt6 hubs and are they street legal? I am very keen to learn about any alternatives to xt6 or this kit. I have thought about looking at melding hubs from an H6 outback to MY? Thanks for your reply. I would rather source a kit or xt6 hubs if possible though.


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Lots of good wine here Bennie! Will swap some for car parts!!


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Cr0ss**** kit is more common than XT6 hubs down under, but the hub design is identical. Here's a pic of an original I cleaned up:

Note that the wheel bolts are unique to the XT6 (a smidgen smaller than anything else, the closest being Nissan R32 from memory), but Dorman still make them (I bought from eBay USA), so if your bolts are chewed up you'll need to source new ones from the US.
Legally, the Cr0ss**** is probably the closest as it was engineered. I found it very difficult getting definitive information on the front - the back was very easy in the end. There is a thread somewhere on here of some of my assembly issues at the back.
Combining an Outback axle with an MY I really don't know about from a feasibility perspective.
I guess the ultimate question is, what are you trying to achieve - better wheel selection or better brakes ? If it's just wheels, there are hub adaptors available to get you to 5x100 but they aren't legal. My problem became I went from 4x140 to 5x100 but still had offset issues, so ended up using wheel spacers. I have just resolved this yesterday with sourcing some very uncommon Gen1 Audi TT wheels as that was the only OEM vehicle with a suitable offset.

BTW, user hyperlite2 on USMB has posted a bump on his XT6 hubs (just the hubs). He wanted from memory either $250 or $300 US, which I thought was too high, but he's looking for offers now...

That's a pretty piece of metal! My mission, if the handbrake lets me accept it is,
Whole EJ20 turbo front end, with WRX brakes etc, I believe I need to source L series control arms to get some negative camber and ream the holes for Wrx ball joints and use early WRX front axles for correct length.
Then join front part of Wrx drive shaft with back of L series shaft to get right length to join to a R160 or similar diff. Change the cups in the diff for MY rear axles and get Xt6 or Cr0ss... Hubs for better brakes and better wheels. Is this your plan?
I also thought it might be worth investigating to re drill front MY hubs and put them on the rear? Probably too difficult though. I want to be all kosher so no spacers for me.

Thanks dfoyl, I just made him an offer

>Whole EJ20 turbo front end, with WRX brakes etc, I believe I need to source L series control arms to get some negative camber and ream the holes for Wrx ball joints and use early WRX front axles for correct length.

That's pretty much what I've heard done. I borrowed a reamer from another member here but left the mix-and-matching to a Subaru mechanic as he had access to all the odd bits. One trick I did learn was that 1993-94 Liberty wagons used a rear tapered spring that leaves plenty of clearance, while other models don't. I've not heard of the latter being a problem for other 5-stud conversions, but putting the info out there.

>Then join front part of Wrx drive shaft with back of L series shaft to get right length to join to a R160 or similar diff. Change the cups in the diff for MY rear axles and get Xt6 or Cr0ss... Hubs for better brakes and better wheels. Is this your plan?

I have a MPFI 5 speed, so my output count is different from most. If you're going a WRX engine, I'd suggest either grabbing that AWD box that was/is for sale (in the FS section!) so the power is more evenly spread. I'm only going SOHC EJ20 NA, so I didn't see a need for it. Bennie will tell you to go the EA-into-EJ box option so you don't need an adaptor plate

My rear was much simpler. Just Forester backing plates redrilled from 4 holes to 3 (2 of the 3 original holes mate, the 3rd one needs to be drilled in the backing plate, fit the XT6 hub as per usual MY process (tighten it to infinity), bolt up disc, bolt up caliper. Route the handbrake up the suspension arm into the cab. The ********* kit is the same except it adds an adaptor plate to convert the 4 holes on the Forester/Impreza/etc vehicle to suit the 3 holes on the MY.

Good tip on the 93-94 lib springs. I heard the MY wagons have rear coilovers. My local wreckers has a couple of MYs so I must go check them out. I want to a whole WRX with average body/ good running gear and transplant as much as possible. I reckon it would be cheaper that way.
Yep old mate on USMB wants 300, which is a bit dear or a bit bear should I say with current AUD rate. I saw your post about TT wheels, any pics? They sound cool

MY's wagons definitely have the same torsion bar suspension as Brumby's - I pulled one apart just recently and it is exactly the same. I have heard of people putting later model suspension into them, but it's a huge job.

Plenty of WRX donors around that have met with accidents - they are pretty much the ideal car for someone just off their P's, and have a high writeoff rate based on market value. Maybe a Pickles auction would be the best way to pick one up cheap.

$300 US is about $100 US more than XT6 are worth, based on the (occasional) sales price I have seen (I paid $200 US for mine (plus shipping), but bought them when the dollar was at 80c, not 70c). Add another $100 AUS for shipping, another $30 for new studs if required, and you're already around $630 AUS. Makes the Cr0ss**** kit look like pretty good value.

No TT wheels yet, currently in transit from Sydney. Hopeful for early next week...

I think you're right. Just where to find a cr0ss***** kit? I hope the wheels work out. How did you work out the offset for your wheels

The Cr0ssbr3d kits come up FS now and then on eBay Australia and similar, if you put up a wanted post on this site you might be lucky too.

Offset was trial and error more than anything else. I worked out what I had with the existing wheels, and measured the distance from the wheel-well edge to the outer lip for what I needed to add - which I knew was around +25mm based on what the old Peugeot 504 wheels I had on the 4x100 PCD factory hubs (the stock Brumby wheels are +35 from memory, but they are well inside the fender). Then added half the difference in width (6" to 7" wheel, so 25.4mm divide by 2 is 12.7mm), subtract the difference between +25 and +31 is 6mm, and 12.7mm comes down to 6.7mm. So the TT wheels will be 6.7mm wider than I had with the Pugs on the outer face, but 17.7mm wider on the inside face. Checked for any clearance issues, the closest being the bracket from the body back to the rear wheel hub and there's still plenty of space there.

:pI like the maths. It makes sense, I think it is worthy of putting that formula in the tech manual..also posted a thread in wanted section, fingers cr0ss****! :-

Do you think these wheels would fit, http://www.jncwheels.com/5x100?product_id=358


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