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I have to remive the sump on mt Brumby to replace the gasket. Bolts on front and sides seem a piece of cake, but the back bolts look like a night mare to remove and replace. Any ideas out there.

I haven't done the sump gasket on my Subaru yet but I have done it on a Daihatsu CB23 and a Nissan L20B without removing the subframe. The Subaru looks a bit easier. I would use a ring spanner, 1/4" drive socket, ratchet, a few different extensions (with wobble joints if you have them) and a lot of patience.

I have to do mine before easter in the MY, leaking about 100mm of oil a day out of the gasket...

the little plate on the bottom of the crossmember where the sump guardd bolts onto, this has to be removed. Drill out the 4 spot welds, replace with nut and bolts. With the plate removed you can get to the rear bolts. There are holes in the crossmember to get a 10mm deep socket through for the back bolts.

where have you sourced the gaskets from?

I replaced mine on my Brumby a couple of years back and it was fiddly but not impossible. Can't remember removing the plate that taza mentioned - maybe a previous owner did it?
I think I used a small socket extension for the tricky bolts.

David D

I obtained my sump gasket from Rockauto USA (Subaru Brat 1987) for $2.45 plus postage etc = $30.02. Couldn't get one here on ebay. Its a cork adhesive gasket by PAYEN the number on it is JJ134.

Can we please start using the sub forum topic pages for these threads?

If you've not subscribed I'd recommend you do to allow access to post new threads in these sections of the forum.

Personally I'd pull the engine and do the rear main and other little bits of maintenance while everything is easily accessible.

Taza, I'll be checking these little holes out to see what you're talking about

Cheers

Bennie

I think it can help by undoing engine mounts at xmem end and lifting engine a bit to get better access but, you want th gasket to come off cleanly on the sump itself, not bust up and leeve bits on the block, bits on the sump pan and the old cork is hard as and stuck like baby poo to a blanket . Some good scraping chisels wil be on your list. Or like above, pull engine and do some seals as well, new OP switch also helps with leaks

I'll be doing mine with the engine out. While there the rear main will be replaced as it's leaking

I'd do the oil pump re seal and crank seal as well, but they'll be done in the vehicle as they can't wait any longer, I need to stop losing oil!

Cheers

Bennie

All done. Didn't use a gaskets. Just ultra blue and slapped it back on. Lettinh set for 24hours. Did it I n an hour solo last night on the ground.
had to jack the engine a little to get better access to the rear bolts. Can be undone with a good phillips screw driver.

I'll be keen to see how the silicone stuff goes. I don't see why it wouldn't work on the EA's as it works for the EJ's and is done from the factory this way. I'm very temped just to suck it and go with the silicone around the sump.

Cheers

Bennie