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I have no further adjustment left on my Brumby's clutch cable, and she's hard to get into 2nd and 3rd. I guess that means new clutch and new cable. Also is it a HARD job replacing clutch. I know drive shafts have to come off and tail shaft and disconnect gear leavers etc. After that is it really tricky or just like normal car.

Clutch change is pretty simple, takes around an hour or two to remove gear box. Give it a couple of hours to remove old clutch and re-assemble new one, then a couple of hours to re-assemble providing the clutch has been aligned properly.

IF you do change your clutch, make sure you change the spigot bearing as well in the flywheel. You will have to remove the flywheel to do this. Its a small bearing, costs a few dollars but most clutch kits don't include it. Also check flywheel surface incase it needs to to be re-surfaced.

Is you clutch slipping at all? You could try packing a few washers on the clutch arm first to see if it helps with the gear engagement. If it sorts it out, just replace the cable.

When removing front cv's, only need to remove the inner hubs from the gearbox splines. Undo the lower ball joint bolts, spit the ball joints, remove the retaining pin on each inner cv hub then you can pull the inner cv hub of the spline.

Before removing rear tail shaft, don't forget to drain gearbox oil first! OR else you'll end up with a awesome mess on the garage floor!

Good luck when removing the front exhaust section especially if the exhaust flange nuts haven't been undone for years and years! The the studs will probably come out of the heads. Take your time with this, use heaps of WD40 first as you don't want to snap the stud like I've done in the past!
This is the perfect time to replace the studs and bolts when re-assembling.

check the clutch fork isn't cracked or bent

Thanks for that. I'll buy a new cable first to see if it improves things, then no doubt a Clutch will be needed if that doesn't improve a bit.

Then there are those that suggest engine out is easier for some people, leave the gearbox and all its crap sit in peace. Then, recently a guru, namely RSR Paul has suggested, no , long time ago, I recently dredged up his words to effect that an L Series cable is a better mod for its mounting method on the side of the pedal box, but requires pedal box out - easy, to cut off offending MY cable brace method, reinforce box while there so it no collapse on you later, use 1.6mm plate and rivets, 10mm block spacer, get correct alignment of cable

Personally I think it's easier to take the engine out, but that's only because I've taken an EA81 out and put it back so many times; disconnect a few hoses, 4 nuts and 3 bolts and she's out re-aligning the new plate and getting the input shaft back in the hole is a PITA though when putting the engine back.

Jonno the L series cable/pedal box mod is better because the L pedal has a longer distance from pivot point to cable mounting, so more leverage/cable travel.

Yeah, don't remind me the six times the EA82M had to come out because of a pedal issue. Imagine the colourful language if I had to refit the box half a dozen times !! And then find the answer was in the pedal inside!! It can depend on what resources you have - not got overhead lifting, but strong back, guts, neck and arms - go under and rip the box out ....

I've got one of those transmission adapter things on one of my large trolley jacks. no lifting here, just gotta make sure the box is positioned in the right spot on the trolley, and roll and lift, roll and lift.......

or you could get a hoist, makes life real easy..... and we can borrow it ......

If I didn't have a hoist, I would also suggest pulling the engine out.

Once you have the bits apart, I'd check the pivot bolt and fork for wear. I found if there is too much wear, then just put a thin washer behind the pivot bolt.