What did you do to improve your soobie today

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:03 pm

NachaLuva wrote:Great job purp...you guys do an amazing job

+1M

Thank you

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:44 am

Finally had enough of this 40 degree summer weather in NSW so had the A/C checked and regassed in the L series.
I am told it is now 5 degrees at the vents.
2 hour trip to Newcastle each way yesterday much more comfortable.
Also, picked up another 2 x L series clocks from the wreckers.
One from a 90 model and one from a 94 model.
My clock is somehow loosing the always on 12v when the ignition is turned off. Not straight away but over night. Will plug the 94 model clock in and see how this goes.

jims · Post by **jims** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:04 pm

I've had the same problem cliff! I have a spare sitting in the shed to try out but haven't gotten around to it yet. Let me know how you go.

James

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:15 pm

Good luck ! I went through five before I found a good one and even that went like yours the constant supply drifted off. Houses a useful voltmeter now

Was hard to throw the old clocks too for some , just gotta figure Subaru cant make everything to their standard - outsourcing

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jan 16, 2013 3:56 pm

Cliff R wrote:My clock is somehow loosing the always on 12v when the ignition is turned off. Not straight away but over night. Will plug the 94 model clock in and see how this goes.

Have you done the soldering trick yet? That might sort it out for you.

Cheers

Bennie

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:02 am

Well thats interesting.
For about 3 months my clock has been drifing when I turn the ignition off.
I go to the wreckers and buy my 8th L series clock (I have a box full of them) ready for another dry joint soldering job on one of the 2 problematic resistors they have and my clock starts working perfectly even in this 40 degree heat ?
Spooky.....
I will leave the 94 model clock sitting on the front passenger seat in anticipation of a failure and to show my clock I mean business !
Re reading this message it appears I am trying to threaten my clock if it doesnt stay fixed.
Think I need to get a life.....

GunFactory · Post by **GunFactory** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:12 am

Cliff R wrote:Well thats interesting.
For about 3 months my clock has been drifing when I turn the ignition off.
I go to the wreckers and buy my 8th L series clock (I have a box full of them) ready for another dry joint soldering job on one of the 2 problematic resistors they have and my clock starts working perfectly even in this 40 degree heat ?
Spooky.....
I will leave the 94 model clock sitting on the front passenger seat in anticipation of a failure and to show my clock I mean business !
Re reading this message it appears I am trying to threaten my clock if it doesnt stay fixed.
Think I need to get a life.....

The car knows. Cheeky beast.

Kalbarri_baru · Post by **Kalbarri_baru** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:30 am

New Front CV's and Front Brakes, $700 all up at RAC Kalbarri, gotta get the Subi down to Perth for other work to be done way toooooooooo expensive for repairs up here in Kalbarri.

Next job to be done is a new Steering rack for 93 model EA82 Carby Sportswagon Manual, needs urgent attention, if anyone knows where I can get a recond or reasonable 2nd handy rack then send me a message, photos of my Subis can be viewed on my profile page.

Any recommendations for good Mechanics in Perth would also be appreciated.

Cheers

Wayne..............................

fantapants · Post by **fantapants** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:45 pm

this weekend i will be respraying my brumby, been spending all week preparing it:p

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:08 pm

fantapants wrote:this weekend i will be respraying my brumby, been spending all week preparing it:p

PIIIIIIIIIIICS!!!
Welcome to the forum!
Please create a thread of your own and share lots and lots of pics of your brumby and what you have been doing to it.
And perhaps in there tell is a bit about yourself.

Cheers Cam

fantapants · Post by **fantapants** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:30 pm

after the respray [img]http://[IMG]http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m53 ... 781e80.jpg[/img][/IMG]

fantapants · Post by **fantapants** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:31 pm

stupid thing didnt work again

here is the link
http://s1130.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 7530080333

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:45 pm

Basic treatments looks pretty cool. Maybe remove an inner headlight for induction - give it more of a racer look

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:43 pm

Well, I didn't really do anything to Ruby Scoo today other than limp her back up to Shepparton to prepare for Oz weekend. Before the cruise I was experiencing a vibration in the rear end very similar to having shot drive shafts - a vibration that would come and go but it was very minor.

Anyway, she stayed at the pero's joint for two weeks - two tanks of fuel was too hard to do so we took my wife's car back home. Then today we picked her up and this vibration was so much worse, at 100km/h it felt like the rear end was going to shake off! I removed the rear shafts on the side of the road to eliminate them from the equation. Not them.

So back roads it was at low speeds to keep things happy. Once off the dirt and back on the main roads the best speed was smack on 87km/h, almost no vibration. On a quiet road we swapped vehicles so I could see what was going on. The rear left tyre is shot - it's got a bubble or a bulge that you can't see without spinning the wheel. It really feels like a bent rim or hub but I've already checked that out.

So now to sort out a new rear tyre... Lucky Venom picked up a spare for me, well, it was going to be a spare but it never made it to the rim to be the carried spare

This could be goodbye to the Wild Conquerers

Been a short time but a great time!

Cheers

Bennie

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:59 pm

if your ej25 is '99 or older and is mysteriously leaking oil like a bastard,
the fix could be as follows.

so much oil..................................

tell tale sign from the crankshaft seal also.

and the fix

hope this surely fixes it

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:28 am

fredsub wrote:if your ej25 is '99 or older and is mysteriously leaking oil like a bastard,
the fix could be as follows.

and the fix

Actually this starts earlier back than the '99 EJs - the Gen2 libertys have a plastic plate as well. I stupidly siliconed up one on a mate's liberty, I'm 99% sure it's leaking again now. I have a plate from an early EJ20.

The fix to say it in black and white is a new tin cover plate over the oil separator thing at the back of the engine. You can purchase them through FROG or at your local dealership. Worth the effort when you do your clutch!

Cheers

Bennie

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 9:21 pm

thanks El,fred
read your tire troubles, you should buy mine;), i'd be very envious seeing them on your L.

the cover kit was $48 and you get new screws with it. You get one screw
which is different! figure the one arrow on the cover plate must indicate
the spot for it!

subaru stuffed up with that, at least an easy fix. Not as big a stuff up as with later eg25s with dual mass flywheel

like what was so much of a problem with the well proven single flywheel. If its not broke, whats to fix?
My outback runs smoothly enough, you get used to it, not as smooth as a v6
but so what?

jayrod · Post by **jayrod** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:52 pm

Bought a Ej20T for my 92 liberty wagon

Should give me the power i want offroad :P

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:21 pm

changed the engine oil and filter today in the forester. used some new valvoline oil http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 0102#Cross

it was cheap and thought i would give it a go. smells a bit weird though...

also did the rear diff oil. filled it back up using a make shift filler bottle i made

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 1:07 pm

I wanted to add a hard-wired accessories point in the front while keeping the cig lighter ignition-switched & at the same time making the rear accessories point always on. So I did the (easy) relay bypass mod but added an extra power wire (in blue) routed behind the dash. A couple of pop rivets to hold the accessories point in place on the side of the centre console & an earth up behind the dash & I was done

Installed twin accessories point (always on):

Relay bypass plus extra power wire:

The only prob I had was when I put the wire in the connector the free end of the bypass loop momentarily touched the metal frame, blowing the fuse. Solution...put in the free end first, then the power end.