'91 Brumby Driveshaft

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:03 pm

Heya,
My '91 Brumby makes a click at the rate of once/revolution of the front left wheel. I'm thinking it's either the wheel bearing or the driveshaft, and i'm leaning towards driveshaft. So i am planning on getting a whole new driveshaft to replace it and DIY'ing it, which i've never done. If i was to buy a new shaft, what brand is reliable? I see a few on ebay but i'd be happy to go down the path of an auto parts store and get something quality that will last.

Is there anything I can do to confirm its the driveshaft? I've turned hard left and hard right but it doesn't seem to make any difference. It's done 330,000kms by the way... Cheers, Ron.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Oct 05, 2011 2:01 pm

This may sound stupid, but make sure there isn't a rock or a nail stuck in your tyre.

Rotate your tyres and see if the clicking is still there. While you've got it jacked up, spin the tyre on the side that's making the noise, you probably won't hear the clicking but what you're listening for is a rumbling kind of sound, this will indicate that the bearings are on their way out or need to be re-packed. They should be quiet. Also check for bearing play by trying to twist the axis of the wheel mounted on the hub, if there's play their either dying, worn out or the castle nut needs to be tightened.

DIY isn't a hard job, just make sure you use jack stands and take your time with everything. The haynes manual says to take to a machine shop - just get a BFH and a block of wood etc to do the job

Cheers

Bennie

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 10:45 pm

Ok, now they are pretty much toast. Who has the best replacements. I think i've read the ones on eBay are crappy?

Is it economical to get genuine ones in from the USA? Or is there an after-market option just as good? Cheers, Ron.

alang · Post by **alang** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:48 am

I know Repco sell them and shocks for the brumbys

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Tue Aug 07, 2012 8:10 pm

Repco
Bursons
All the auto stores will be able to get them for you.

Venom · Post by **Venom** » Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:44 am

I bought about half a dozen driveshafts for various subaru's from cv_joints on Ebay. Not the cheapest, but close to it. All of them still going without issue.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Sat Sep 08, 2012 4:23 pm

Ok, what's the trick to getting the shaft pulled through the steering knuckle and wheel bearings? The gregories mentions a knuckle shaft installing tool. I have packed it out with washers and tried to pull it through with the hub nut but now the drive shaft just spins. The old one pulled out easy... the new one is quite stubborn. Any ideas?

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:36 pm

I would say put it in gear and put the hand brake on but Im guessing you can't put the car in gear as the shaft is out

Put the wheel back on, lower the car down enough so that the wheel stops the hub from turning then tighten the nut up. (Im hoping you got sent the right shaft) This will pull the shaft through.

TOONGA

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:19 pm

Ok, i did what you said and with a breaker bar I am struggling to move the nut. I have a spare steering knuckle and it will slide on and off the old drive shaft without any problem. It gets stuck on the new drive shaft though just like the one on the car. The splines match up to the gearbox and the hub and the measurement on the new drive shaft is only 0.03mm bigger in diameter where it is getting stuck.

I bought two CV's off ebay and they both appear not to fit. Seems like there is only a fraction of a beesdick in it or i am doing something wrong...

Anyway, i bought them off this mob http://sydneycvjoints.com.au/ if anyone has had any success with them let me know...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:58 pm

I think I (I know) I bought my ball joints off them and had similar beesdick problems and my digital calipers compared other brands to confirm the prescence of the boy bees apendage. A slight grind fixed my problems and etched that name in memory bank.

My trick has been to have the hub out and separated from everything so then when I have new CV shaft out, place shaft through hub and tap the new shaft on the solid ground and hub evenly works its way further onto the new shaft.

Needed to do this many times. Don't despair

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sat Sep 08, 2012 8:57 pm

No matter what you do if you end up having to hit the drive shaft or bearing housing to make things go together make sure you do so with a piece of solid copper round bar, not mild steel. You must NOT damage the thread on the drive shaft or you life will be hell.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:30 pm

Ok, what is the trick to getting the front brake piston to go back into it's bore - in laymans terms. This is really shitting me off now. Think i might just buy a BRZ;)

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:36 pm

You need a tool that has a couple of tangs that stick out on it and then use that to turn the piston until it moves back into its bore

this is the specially made tool but grinding a 20 mm socket to suit will do the same job

TOONGA

MTB92 · Post by **MTB92** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:48 pm

or a pair of long nose pliars to turn and a block of wood to hold the calliper still. just to reiterate what toonga said, you have to screw the piston in, not push it.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:02 pm

Problem fixed. Thanks Toonga, you are a ****ing legend... I owe you!

Post by **TOONGA** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:09 pm

555Ron wrote:Problem fixed. Thanks Toonga, you are a ****ing legend... I owe you!

Not a problem I hate having to wind those damn pistons in.

TOONGA