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I have done so much so far on the ute and feeling good about my capabilities and then little things remind me how little I know in the scheme of things haha


Can someone give me a quick right up / tip on how to remove the cv joints from the gearbox.


Cheers again for your help

To pull CV shaft search may be your friend.

36mm socket 3/4" drive,
3/4" drive breaker bar 600mm long, and water pipe that slides over it to get undone, do up the wheel axle nut while handbrake is on, in gear and if necessary someone stomping on the brakes.

Undo 14mm? bolts holding caliper in place, hang it from spring above and out of the way, remove disc

I go overboard (just less crap in the way - takes 20 mins apart, 25 back together) and undo the 17mm nuts of the lower control arm/castor bar 19mm on top of the bolt. Undo tie rod, handbrake to lower control arm securing bracket with 10mm, pull the castor bar after undoing its 17mm nut, then the 14mm ball joint bolt and two other 14mm bolts in that area. Think I even remove lower control arm too to make life easier.

pages 148 -149 of the manual transaxle section

http://rapidshare.com/files/369418990/1 ... nsaxle.pdf

and Steptoes description is way less complicated than the Gregorys one

as for getting the shaft off the gearbox stub, you need to knock out the roll pins that hold the inner CV in place. be careful when you put them back in as if the shaft is one spline out on the box the roll pin won't go in properly and will get stuck 2/3s of the way in and are a real bugger to get out again.

TOONGA

1 I normally take the wheel off.
2 take the split pin off
3 undo the nut
4 remove the 14mm bolt under the hub holding the hub to the ball joint on the lower arm. ( nut is on the front side on the hub not under the lower arm.)
5 Pop the ball joint out and move it to the side
6 Remove the pin on the gearbox stub
7 Cv joint should come out easy
8 Replace new cv, ensuring the teeth on the inner joint lines up with the teeth on the gearbox stud so the pin will go in easy
9 put the pin back
10 put the cv in the hub
11 pop the ball joint back in the bottom of the hub
12 put back the 14mm bolt
13 put back the cv nut and split pin
14 put back the tyre
15 put the jack down
16 pop a beer open, sit back and congratulate yourself on a great job you just did:D

p.s no need to take the caliper and disk out...

Now to remove the cv joint from the gearbox in more details.

Theres a pin that goes through the cv and stub thats sticks out from the gearbox. You nee to take it out. The easiest home made MAURITAN style tool i find to be very effective is a screw driver that has the same thickness as the pin and the flat or star tip grindered off.

Now place the 'new tool' on the pin and hit it "gently" with a hammer until the pin comes out. Make sure the tool has the same diameter as the pin, if not you will get it stuck in the hollow part of the pin and struggle to take it out.

Then the cv should slide out easy.


To put the shaft back in
You need to align the holes of the cvs to the stub. If you look at the two holes on the stud that comes out of the gearbox you will see one side has a male tooth/spline that goes in the middle of the hole and the other side it the female tooth/spline that goes in the middle of the hole. The same thing applies to the inner cv joint.

You need to make sure you put the male part of the gearbox stub with the female of the cv joint so the hole for the pin align perfectly. if its male male the holes will be offset and when you put the pin in it gonna get stuck and you will have some much fun taking it out, a nit of irony there:)


Hope that helps:)

Again thanks for all your help.

That should give me a much better idea, I just need to remove the inners off the gearbox so that I can remove the transmission and have still be able to roll the shell around. really appreciate the write up from all three of you

It was the one thing holding me up, I assumed it would just be removing that pin however I did not want to go ahead and do it without making sure it was correct.

I am about to pull apart the brake system as I have all new components to go in so the extra info is appreciated

My project write up with all the pics
showthread.php?t=18378&page=3

I'm pretty sure 1/2" drive sockets top out at 36mm though you may have to order them in to your fav tooling supplier . Breaker bars are easy to find in 1/2" drive and cheaper than 3/4" drive ones .

A .

PS I went and bought a propper punch for the inner joint roll pins .
The right tools almost always work though I have found the odd roll pin that won't push out even with the correct punch . Probably need to drill those ones out .

I scored mine from a swap meet, used and newies available and spare 36mm from SCA one time. $15 to 22 for the breaker bars in 3/4" drive.

guyph, your description undo the nut - NOT FAIR, it does not just undo at 180 foot pounds, think it is my first step for a reason

My proper size punch is still stuck in a diff sitting out in the weather

steptoe wrote: it does not just undo at 180 foot pounds, think it is my first step for a reason

That's for sure, you would never be able to undo or do up the nut with the wheel off.

ahhh so that is why it took awhile the other night. The two of us did manage to remove the nut with alot of stubborn strength and without a better idea.

Wheel was off and just used a jumbo adjustable spanner.

I just bought a 1/2" to 3/4" socket adapter which i just keep with my 36mm socket. Second part to that is a breaker extension bar which is about 1.2m long, very handy for cracking the castellan nut.

I forgot to mention why I use 3/4" drive, I broke my quality 1/2" 600mm breaker bar on this very task with extender sleeve

I use a rattle gun

Can you take the gearbox shafts off far enough to be able to get the gear box out?? Does anyone know if you can on a GEN 1 lib?