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Recovery points MY question
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 12:23 pm
by TheInterceptor
Hey all
Just wondering how durable the factory tiedown/recovery points on an MY are. Have some people gotten rated recovery points welded on somwhere?
No good when you try and get snatched out and your tow/recov. point gets ripped off and flug afar...
Cheers
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:12 pm
by AndrewT
Yeah they aren't "recovery points", they are "tiedown points" mostly put there for tying the car down when shipping etc. They can be used as "tow points" too.
Definitely not designed for snatching as this put way more stress on. I've done that too, ripped the front one clean off my L series one day in the dunes.
Only real part of an L series or MY I'd really feel comfortable using for snatching would be a towbar. There really isn't anything substantial at the front end to put a rated hook on. Possibly if you got creative with a big bracket attached near the rails where a bullbar normally mounts you could come up with something useable.
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:44 pm
by TheInterceptor
Mm thought as much...thanks for your input.
Gotta get hold of a towbar then.
I have seen a splitter type thing, like a strap from one front hook to the other and then having the snatch attached to the center of the strap. This splits the load. Would doing it that way help any more?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 4:00 pm
by Alex
no, dont get tempted to use the tie down points. If you look what theyre attached to, it basically just thin sheet metal. Ive seen them rip off (read AndrewT), they become a deadly missile.
never ever snatch off a tie down point. It may work 2 or 3 times, but one day it will let go an someone could get seriously hurt.
same with tow bars, theyre fine to snatch off, just never tie directly around the tow ball. They arent designed for it and will shear off, even more dangerous.
the best way is with a bullbar, bolted thru the 'chassis rails' for the front of the car, using rated recovery hooks.
cheers
alex
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 4:27 pm
by TheInterceptor
Thanks alex.
Yep ive heard some stories of missile towballs...
Ok so for the rear a tow bar will do the job, and the front a bullbar that is bolted to the rails. Does the bumper replacement bullbar bolt up to the rails or is this a custom jobbie?
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:13 pm
by Alex
bumper replacement bars generally do bolt to the rails
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:26 pm
by TheInterceptor
Cheers

Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:53 pm
by AndrewT
lol yeah, I shoulda clarified that, thanks Alex. When I said towbar I meant the bar itself, definitely not the ball!

As a side note, make sure you put the strap close to either end of the towbar where it mounts. After quite a few big snatches with the strap closer to the middle, my towbar has actually bent out a bit.
Also, as a general rule, try not to get stuck requiring a snatch, and don't offer to snatch someone if there is somebody else there with a more suitable vehicle to do it instead. If you want your little suby to last it's best not to bend the whole car with violent things like snatches.
I think most people don't realise just how flimsy our little suby's are, particular the L series. As an example, one time Alex had his wagon parked on some really uneven ground, one wheel off the ground I think. He opened the rear tailgate to get something out and then found he couldn't close it again (the car was flexed too much). It closed fine after the car was on flattish ground again (remember that Alex??).
Another thing you can do which is a bit disturbing....drive along normally along the road with the driver's window down. Put your right hand out the window and press your finger flat over the gap between your driver's door and the rear driver's side door. As you go over bumps in the road you can normally feel the size of that gap changing quite a bit!
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:07 pm
by spike
tie down points are rated to go straight down and to be clamped that way
couple of other points would be the cross member and the actual bar on the tow bar, always use grade 8 bolts or higher though and if it helps strap a peice of old seat belt to the mount point so you can easily get to it
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 10:15 pm
by TheInterceptor
Good tips. Id have thought the tow ball would be commmon sense? Oh well..
Never planned on getting stuck though (but you do anyway...), i travel alone so i most definatly wont drive into somthing i cant drive out of.
Im now plannin on joining others on treks so of course id like to be prepared for as much as i can including snatch recoveries, hence why i started this thread.
Payed of so far!
Get bumper replacement bullbar
Get towbar, snatch from the side's nearest to the rails not from the center
Get grade 8 + bolts to secure the bars with
Thanks again gents.
Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:14 pm
by Subyroo
TheInterceptor wrote:Good tips. Id have thought the tow ball would be commmon sense? Oh well..
That is what killed the teenager in Hervey Bay in Dec 2010 and the young footballer in Tassie back in Oct 2009.
Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:00 am
by Alex
AndrewT wrote:ground again (remember that Alex??).
yes, yes i do remember that.
i also remember putting stones on the roof of my L-series and watching them go 5+cm in the air with every bass hit from the subwoofer haha.
alex
Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:19 am
by T'subaru
Id be leary of grade 8 bolts. As I understand a grade 8 bolt has a very high tensile strength but a grade 5 bolt has a very high shear strength.
Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:55 pm
by TheInterceptor
Subyroo wrote:That is what killed the teenager in Hervey Bay in Dec 2010 and the young footballer in Tassie back in Oct 2009.
I meant comon sense not to use it.
Ok so what grade bolts is the best to use?
Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:20 pm
by Alex
id go for a couple of M12 gr8.8, M10 should be okay too as the old subis dont weigh too much.
Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:31 pm
by TheInterceptor
Thanks yet again
