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Engine Removal - Tips stories and your two cents
Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:42 pm
by Backyard_Brumby
Hi Guys
Going to be removing and replacing my EA81 out of my Brumby soon (to another EA81). It is something that I think we will be able to nut out using a little common sense and some basic knowledge (and some cursing/shoving when things aren't going so well)

however I thought it would be interesting to hear anyones stories of things missed, troubles had and any tips for someone about to do an engine swap
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:42 am
by discopotato03
Take the radiator out (its empty anyway) and support the front of the gearbox .
A securely mounted chain block or engine hoist is a must , too many people injure themselves trying to doing things the hero way .
While its out do any planned maint while everything's easy to get at . Especially any obscure rubber water lines .
Inspect the front and rear crankshaft seals because this is a good opportunity to change them .
Unless the clutch and throw out bearing is fresh ie done yesterday think seriously about servicing them . I'd do the throwout bearing anyway because its a lot of work to get at it if it dies . Buy a good brand bearing .
A .
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:49 am
by bonzaman
dont forget earth strap.its something small that WILL stop engine coming out.
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:15 am
by steptoe
Degrease the old one and the bay from above and below and give it a good bath.
Speed tip : I found it is faster to pull cap off dizzy, rotor out, then pull the two wires off the module, rubber bung out watching the gasket if still there and peel away from engine to coil. faster than fiddling at coil drop the little washers or nuts or mix up wiring.
Do not need to remove starter just the long bolt at top
A cheapy heat gun is good on rubber water hoses to soften their grip on their mating pipes. Fuel hoses are an interesting thing with heat guns - do not do, mine gave off white smoke - I took as a warning and stopped
Little trolley jack under gearbox to support or use a bar across the strut tops, I use threaded rod through its middle of bar, nut and washer below holding a chain that hooks on front centre bolt of gearbox housing, another nut at top to wind up and down to suit box angle.
Buy a cheapy plastic dummy shaft to align clutch splines on refit - helps
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:34 am
by Backyard_Brumby
Cheers guys this is all good stuff, just tips that will help the job go faster, looking forward to hearing more
Also the engine going in is rebuilt so should be no problems there, we are replacing the full clutch kit and any lines as necessary. It also needs a new radiator and the air con will be serviced before put in. So hopefully we will be replacing everything that we can while it is apart and it should be a good reliable suby for a while after
Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:41 pm
by steptoe
oh, you may need to order in one of those flywheel to crank rubber disc seals - about $20 ten years ago genuine. Do not know what they seal.About same size as a round 50 cent piece. My EA81 crank from a very early EA81 did not have room for one of these seals last time around!
Have some spare fuel hose and clamps, heater hose and clamps. Got my last one out in 45 minutes from running to the concrete, 90 mins to do the opposite. Had some practice

and that dizzy trick saved me five minutes out and same going back in.