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Bugger don't you just hate it when you write up a post then hit the wrong button.
Well finally dragged my butt outa bed and thought wow a great day lets put the new decals on Scamp. Hey that looks good now do the other side ooopppsss not as good but only I will know why eheheh.
Done now what oh yeah lets have a look at that suss gunk around the water pump outlet.OOo aaahhh that don't look good now that the hose is off, lets remove the pump and put a new one on. All is going to plan then bugger that bolt is seized okay take it easy see if a little bit of to and fro ing will do the trick, nope it broke.
Oh well time to remove the radiator and all the stuff in front, then we will drill and tap. Good got all that out of the way and of course it is the top left hand one so off with the crank shaft pully that should give me a straight line to get the bit in.
I'll drill and tap tomorrow but lets have a look at the themostat housing yep same thing its corroded need to replace. Hey got that off without breaking anything eheheh:)
Now for the fun bit tomorrow first up go buy a couple of new drill bits an eaze out and a tap.
Have a great week
Hylton

Yes.. breaking a bolt or 2 is a must when ever you try and change a pump in the old girls but that's the fun of working on them Just one suggestion.. when you go to put the new pump on, put some anti-sieze on the whole bolt, not just the threaded bit.. it will reduce the corrosion between the water pump body and the bolts and hopefully help you next time

I'd be changing the coolant brand too! Those decals, spray soapy water, Cussons dishwashing liquid mixed with water onto clean dewaxe surface first, lets you slide to correct position and then squeegee soapy water and bubbles out. My experience with steel bolts in alloy stuck corroded remain that way. Drill bugger out and helicoil it. Not always in easy spots.

Aviation gasket goo#2 also good on threads as anti sieze and seal water out of thread itself

olddog642 wrote:Bugger don't you just hate it when you write up a post then hit the wrong button.
Well finally dragged my butt outa bed and thought wow a great day lets put the new decals on Scamp. Hey that looks good now do the other side ooopppsss not as good but only I will know why eheheh.
Done now what oh yeah lets have a look at that suss gunk around the water pump outlet.OOo aaahhh that don't look good now that the hose is off, lets remove the pump and put a new one on. All is going to plan then bugger that bolt is seized okay take it easy see if a little bit of to and fro ing will do the trick, nope it broke.
Oh well time to remove the radiator and all the stuff in front, then we will drill and tap. Good got all that out of the way and of course it is the top left hand one so off with the crank shaft pully that should give me a straight line to get the bit in.
I'll drill and tap tomorrow but lets have a look at the themostat housing yep same thing its corroded need to replace. Hey got that off without breaking anything eheheh:)
Now for the fun bit tomorrow first up go buy a couple of new drill bits an eaze out and a tap.
Have a great week
Hylton

If it helps, diesel is one of the best known penetrating fluids known to man, it doesnt evaporate and has fantastic searching powers.
So if you are going to try to grip and unscrew (or stud extractor) the broken screw out... try soaking with diesel first - give it time (over night preferably) and keep pumping more on. Best of luck!
Plus another tip which has worked for me in the past.... if you have the kit it can work if (especially with the pre-soak diesel treatment) you are able to weld a nut or tommy bar onto the end of the broken stud.
The ace bit here is that the intense heat from welding travels into the bit your trying to shift, 99 time outa 100 it loosens off and works a treat if you can apply this method. Plus the nut (if used) allows a socket to be used for removal. But let the welded assembly cool off sufficiant first so it doesnt twist when hot like putty!
Good luck!
Giles.

Thanks guys for the tips. I remember that years ago we used diesel as a realese agent. also we used never seize on the drill pipe when working on the oil rigs.
The soapy solution I sed but bugger me a piece of crap dropped of the roof beam just as I layed the decal on the surface yep I entrapped it ehehhe but its sorted now.

The old trick of welding a nut or even just a dab of weld to give something to grab hold of was okay when my eyes and hand didn't shake like they do now LOL notgame to aim for a 4mm dia spot these days.
Hey all is good now it is out and the thread cleaned and retapped. As Rex would say "Thank your Mother for the Rabbits"
Stay tuned I will have more reports and saga's to be for sure

Hylton

olddog642 wrote:Thanks guys for the tips. I remember that years ago we used diesel as a realese agent. also we used never seize on the drill pipe when working on the oil rigs.
The soapy solution I sed but bugger me a piece of crap dropped of the roof beam just as I layed the decal on the surface yep I entrapped it ehehhe but its sorted now.

The old trick of welding a nut or even just a dab of weld to give something to grab hold of was okay when my eyes and hand didn't shake like they do now LOL notgame to aim for a 4mm dia spot these days.
Hey all is good now it is out and the thread cleaned and retapped. As Rex would say "Thank your Mother for the Rabbits"
Stay tuned I will have more reports and saga's to be for sure

Hylton

Hey Hylton.. you mean 'dope'.. if you want some I can bring some home

Well I have just finished giving Scamp a cooling system flush and new coolant plus a carbie clean then flushed the engine put new oil and filter checked for leaks. No oil leaks but a bit of condensation coming out the tail pipe.
Bugger looks like I may have a blown head gasket which if thats the case I'll have to get somebody to replace them as healthwise I'm not up to that laying around under vehicle in my back yard
So I guess tomorrow is another day and with any sort of luck the drivers seat will be back from the upholsterer

Hylton