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What to look out for in an L series?

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:05 am
by marty78
Hi I'm new here and I'm looking at buying an L series sportswagon.

I'm keen to find out any problems / issues or other things to look out for good and bad for when i check a few out.

I'm aware that Cv wear seem to be a common issue. What do i look for?

Timing belts every 100thou on later models is essential is this also the case for the L series?

What are estimates of the service costs on these major items?

Lots of questions I guess and I probably have heaps more but I just appreciate any feeback and opinions at all really.

Cheers, Marty

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:17 am
by AlpineRaven
Welcome your more than welcome to ask anything.
L series are good beginners car to start off, has part time 4wd whereabouts liberty has full time 4wd.

Common problems with l series is the killer rust around front bottom windscreen area, if your a panel beater that is good! CVs is normal wear for any type of CV joints cars, do a circle at full lock and listen for cluck or click and do the same otherwat around.
Kilometres - depends how well it has been looked after, Subaru is well known to have high kms. That engine is pretty gutless but if your not gonna push it then it's a good engine.
Other option is to get early liberty instead. Liberty has better panels etc and shouldn't hAve rust (I've seen rusty ones but they weren't look after well enough/lived near the coast with salt all over)
good luck with your find and keep us updated.
cheers
AP

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:55 am
by someguy
Check the CV's/Rust around the windscreen/check when the timing belts were last changed/check for worn syncros or strange noises in the gearbox.


Other than that they are pretty bulletproof so you should be fine.

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:12 am
by justincase41
Check for blown head gaskets....... But at the end of the day, can be fixed.
As mentioned rust around front windscreen. My L series has 500,000km on the clock, body has nil rust, engine is in great condition..... They are bullet proof!

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:51 am
by RSR 555
Pretty much like people have said.. Rust around the front screen but also look for rust on the front chassis rail. I see many L's now with rust start in the rails and this is obviously like the windscreen, a structual part of the car and wouldn't pass licence inspections if ever needed.

Must say it's one of the most fun cars I've used for 4WDing and fishing... Good luck with your purchase :)

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:41 am
by marty78
Thanks everyone. I will check for the rust in the above mentioned areas and check the cv's etc.

So do the timimng belts have to be changed with these every 100K too? If so I assume thats a $1000 like it is for forester etc.

Speaking of Forester that is what I initially started looking for and have test drove a few. The non turbo is quite gutless and I don't expect anything worse from the L series in trems of power to weight. The GT is obviously very nice to drive but I'm sure they have there own issues in terms of potential abuse and service needs. I'm trying to stay under $10K and so if I can find a good L series I'm going to save quite a few dollars for other things.

The early liberties is something that I haven't considered. I'm sure they are a great car an all, but to be honest they look pretty ordinary. Personal choice i guess. I should be open to all suggestions though and I'm happy to listen to suggestions for a manual all wheel drive wagon that can handle off the bitumen when required.

Cheers, Marty

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:03 am
by timmo
standard L series will be significantly more gutless than forester. have you driven one? Timing belts should be done before 100k to safe, but wont stuff your engine if they break. most home mechanics armed with a service manual find it an easy job. Noisy hydraulic lifters (tappets) is common, the sound will drive you bannanas

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:10 am
by marty78
timmo wrote:standard L series will be significantly more gutless than forester. have you driven one?
No I haven't. I plan to check one or two out this week. I'm just considering all my options.

Maybe the non turbo forester I drove just had issues?

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:58 am
by shuffbag
a ej20 n/a forester is gutless, you are correct there.

i had a L wagon which was fine in standard form, but as soon as you go to bigger wheels..... forget about it. forever dropping down gears for small hills on the freeway to try hold the speed limit.

i then put a ej22 and its matching awd box into the L and it totally transformed it. faster than my forester? yes, but the forester is legal and has bigger (or the same) size wheels as my previous L.

L = :(
ej22'd L = :D
ej20 n/a forester = :)

i love my forester, don't get me wrong it is a great car with so many features and is more modern compaired to the L. it isn't as fast/strong as a modded L, but its a better car for day to day driving.

my L was so so so so fun to drive but i was always worried about copping a defect, of course engineering can be done but thats just more money.

forgot what the whole reason for this thread was.....

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:34 pm
by AlpineRaven
Timing belt - They are 100,000kms, I normally change them on exact 100,000kms, but if you're a low km per year driver then its less - I dont know what the year/months that needs replacing, I think something like 48 months?¿ cant remember.

Timing Service - if you're mechanically minded - you can do it yourself, the recent 300,000km service was minor service and I paid $480 all up including bearings, water pump, belts, seals, sparkplugs, oil, filters etc etc. That was for 1996 Subaru Liberty.

Cheers
AP

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 1:01 pm
by spike
also check the bushes and just about every suspension component
got mine with a blown head gasket threw another motor in it.
then found full rear suspension needed to be done, bushes, rear cvs(think) shocks.

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:57 pm
by dfoyl
Go an MY, no timing belts to worry about :)

If you really want an L-series, pick up one with a good body and then put an engineered low-km EJ20 into it with the EA82 5-speed box - best of both worlds, decent power in a light car. Good fuel economy, reliable, doesn't look like a blob on wheels. Will be way under your budget but you won't get the money back if you sell it.

Dean.