The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Hi,
I am looking to buy a subaru liberty (mid 90's model) in manual (which is hard to find as i have found out).
At the moment i will probably get the gx awd model as they seem to be easier to find and are within budget.

Is there anything i should look out for on these cars when checking out used cars? any common problems etc.
what can you guys tell me about them in terms of reliability and such?

importantly what is maintenance costs like? i have heard that replacing cv joints/shafts is very expensive on these cars? how much would that usually cost?

and what would replacing something like a windscreen cost for example?

thanks and i hope to be an active member soon

Cheers,
gerzod

Welcome to the forum gerzod not much goes wrong with them maintenance costs aren't to bad.

cv's aren't that dear you can pick them up for no more than $140 each side if your handy with cars they are easy to fit.
Most of the time only the boot rubbers are ripped and they only cost about $15 each

Hope it helps

Jan

Welcome...
Another thing about Gen 1 Liberty that you're looking at is Airbag suspensions, most of these people upgrade them to normal struts instead of airbag, someone that I know did it on his Liberty costed him $650 all up removing old airbag to outback struts...

CVs - agreed, Sometimes they're okay - once they start clicking meaning its wearing out.

Another two things - check for rust, check for service history and a good service history is worth having!
Good Luck!
Cheers
AP

sorry, i am looking at a gen2 or gen 3 liberty (1994 and onwards). thanks for the advice though. the gen2 and gen3 liberties dont have airbag suspension do they?
also what would be the cost of a new windscreen around?

and what kind of power can i expect to get with light mods (intake headers and exhaust) on a gx 2.2L? i hear they are pretty sluggish due to the AWD and only having a 2.2NA engine (i dont want to go turbo).

cheers,
gerzod

Also timing belt. Probably the most expensive item of service (would be between $900 and $1300 to fit if you get someone to do it). HAS to be done every 100,000km

Timing Belt service can be expensive, but if you do it yourself then you save your wallet! Timing belt alone is around $90 (from Subaru), a kit is around $195 (not subaru) and If you think you can do it yourself then thats good. If not get someone do it if they do know how to change timing.

Gen 2 Liberty has EJ22 & EJ25
Gen 3 Liberty has EJ20 & EJ25 -> there is plenty of threads in here about it.

EJ22 are tough engines, nothing can go wrong with them unless you choose to abuse them, if you don't they'll look after you and go forever, mine is now 300,000kms and Ive seen a few EJ22s going upto 600,000kms or more.

EJ22 isn't ideal for power/performance upgrade and you could hurt your wallet just for small power increase, they arent sluggish engines, just the way they are! If you can go from A to B then thats important.
Cheers
AP

thanks for that! thats pretty much what i was looking for.
cheers, i am going to check out afew soon so hopefully i buy one!! i love these cars, always wanted a liberty.

Check condition of clutch - peddle free play, take up - cruise along at a consistant speed, then put the clutch in till engine revs a good 2k more than current rpm, drop clutch and car should lurch... if not dodgy clutch. Listen carefully for any sounds of rattling in the steering - do a couple of circles from stand still one turn back from full lock... if the cvs are shit you'll hear it pretty quickly. Look for grease spray on the firewall, it'll tell you if any boots have been ripped. Check radiator hoses for condition/colour and see if it has a maintaince history. If it's done 250,000 plus without any documentation of major service be sus, consider also if the heads have been re done - bonus if they have as you'll get a couple hundred more out of them. Drive with the windows down and radio off, let the revs raise when driving a bit, about 4.5-5k and listen for any pinging or strange sounds.

If buying from a dealer ask for the road worthy certificate and at least a 6 month warrenty. My lib radiator tank cracked in the first few weeks and the dealer gave me $400 toward a new radiator... good bloke actually. I heard you can also call vicroads and see if it's been in any accidents by giving the rego number - anyone confirm this?

Check tyre wear - if it's uneven the alignment might be out or cambur/toe in might be wrong.

Check for grease stains or dirty spots around p/s pump and where the p/s lines entre the steering rack. Check bottom of timing covers for oil/grease as may indicate leaking camshaft or front oil seals. Look at the sump and tranny bolts to check for any rounding, look on steering rack and bottom of tranny for any oil trips - could indicate leaking rear seal. Unless it's been used offroad, the engine bay should be fairly clean.

Dump the oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs and leads within the first few weeks of purchase. The condition of those things will tell you a fair bit about the condition of the engine overall. You'll get little improvements in power with the NAs, i find that good quality oil and filters changed/cleaned regularly - especially air - along with decent spark plugs and leads, along with decent fuel - will generally keep these engines running well. Help it breath and run smooth and you'll get it going pretty well!

Unless you're used to a v8 or v6, the 2.2s really aren't that sluggish imo. enjoy the awd as you cane anyone off in the wet for the first 50m or around corners , just drive it in the dirt like it was supposed to. Or, just drive around the 3 - 5 thou rpm mark, plenty of torque and power around that range in my experience, enough to get somewhere in a hurry. If you want more fun, just get the turboh, maaaaaate.

Owen.

thanks for the detailed reply scooby, im sure it will help alot.