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Just test drove a '96 Outback ( auto, 2.5L ). It's got 130,000 miles ( 200,000km ) on it. Super clean in the engine bay and had what looked like new leads going to the coil packs. CVs/boots looked good all round. interior was pretty clean.

Heaps of power, I test drove a '02 legacy just before and it was a wet rag compared to the outback. BUT there was a pulsating noise at anything over 60km/h, but sounded clean revving right through in neutral. Also with all accessories turned on while at idle it would occasionally have a relay click and the following would happen: ABS light on, tacho to 0, radio cut out.

Price was $2950 which is a bit cheaper, but not much than average.

I'm leaning towards walking away from it and waiting for a better one to come up, but if anyone has any thoughts on the problems above I might reconsider if they seem easy to fix and/or harmless.

Pulsating noise could be the tyres too.

It does have a few km's but I guess the price tag does reflect that. What condition was the body in? What was the interior like? In relation to the abs light turning on when accesories turned on, could be a loose connection or a bad earth somewhere. A diagnostic check with a scantool may help pinpoint the problem. My rule of thumb when buying a cheaper car is get the best body your money can buy as this area tends to be the most expensive part to repair if your dealing with rust, poor accident repairs ect. And unless you have heaps of experience in the field, most DIYers make the job look even worse! Engines, gearboxes, driveline problems are easier, and can be done by most DIYers. Only drama with late model vehicles with the latest efi systems require expensive diagnostic scantools to check and clear error codes when they occur. You can buy these as reasonable prices now, especially with Aussy dollar being reasonable. I just bought a scantool from usa deliverd for $220. Covers all OBD2/EOBD/OBD systems. similar one here was $490

stinky wrote:there was a pulsating noise at anything over 60km/h, but sounded clean revving right through in neutral.

Did the noise change relative to road speed? I would say most likely tailshaft out of balance or dud uni joint or a wheel has thrown a weight.

Also with all accessories turned on while at idle it would occasionally have a relay click and the following would happen: ABS light on, tacho to 0, radio cut out.

My first check would be earth and battery connections, have seen this a few times, when the alternator isn't making enough power at idle to drive everything the battery should make up the difference, but if it's a bad connection you'll see what you're seeing now, usually worse if the headlights are on too.

Jordan.

Edit:

bobbyjimmy wrote:Pulsating noise could be the tyres too.

Good point, if it has been sitting for a while the tyres may have developed a flat spot.