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according to the factory manual once you have parted the inner DOJ from the CV shaft disassembly is complete.

Huh?? and the outer joint from the shaft ?? That is weak FUJI !

I have gone further than this many times and has involved clobbering the inner face outwards to bump the CVJ off the spring clip at the end of the shaft - sometimes until nearly blue in the face !! But have got there to swap bits around, clean up and regrease etc.

Has anyone got a preferred method devised to do this job ?

some are tight some are easy to hit off.

most of them i can get off while still attached to the car but some yes need a shitload of clobbering.

theres no other real way around it either

you have to watch the circlip isnt to loose on the shaft aswell or you wont be knocking the CV back on.

Yeah,I think it is gonna be a case of too hard with these genuines. Either they are 180,000 km old or the owner had genuine for replacement like he did with the rear muffler over at Yass Motors. I do have my tester CV shaft for the Brumby to swap in to hellp with vibration diagnosis - I know it is good - it does not have the circlip on the outer CV at all !!

OEM joints are painted green and not too hard to remove generally .
I stuck a piece of wire or whatever in the ball cage to aim the joint one way ie away from me when I hold the shaft vertically (CV down) .

I try to strike one of the flats on the back of the inner ball race (inner bit the balls run on) . A short heavy knockometer like a lump hammer works well for me .

With non OEM joints its a grey area if they come off or not , success rate for me 50% on four shafts .

I go to Australian CV and Power Steering here in Sydney because for $110 inc a recoed OEM CV (RX -T shaft) joint I wouldn't bother doing it myself .

A .

I got the green joints (not the smokin' variety either) and in the past belting the outer cup has been enough but is then relying on the blow to transfer through the balls and cage. I might take the hint and jam the joint so it does not lose energy directing the joint in any direction other than off, and maybe try a press with pipe over the shaft onto the inner cage. I am trying to knock up a coupla shafts to experiment with L Series front hubs and brakes and maybe even struts to MY/ MV Brumby . If all works it will be worth getting a custom made shaft consisting of L outer, Brumby shaft and universal inner.. Thanks

discopotato03 wrote: With non OEM joints its a grey area if they come off or not , success rate for me 50% on four shafts .

Whats the joint have to do with it?
Its the Circlip that gets in the way and over time gets weak and spreads out, meaning it slips out of the groove as your trying to knock the joint off or on.