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G'Day,

Can anyone tell me what the factory recomended towing capacity is for a 2000 Gen 3 MY01 Outback? I'm looking at towing a 16 foot pop top caravan weighing 1300kg's max. Does anyone else regularly tow with their outbacks and do they perform well?

Cheers
John

2.5l Outback's are rated at 1400kg's with brakes, 500kg's without brakes and 90kg's ball down force.
3.0l Outback's are rated at 1600kg's with brakes, 500kg's without brakes and 90kg's ball down force or 160kg's ball down force with a hitch.

bobbyjimmy wrote:2.5l Outback's are rated at 1400kg's with brakes, 500kg's without brakes and 90kg's ball down force.
3.0l Outback's are rated at 1600kg's with brakes, 500kg's without brakes and 90kg's ball down force or 160kg's ball down force with a hitch.

The hitch on my H6 outback 2003 model says 1400kg...

Ben wrote:The hitch on my H6 outback 2003 model says 1400kg...

Is that tow bar rating or that what the book said?
Cheers
AP

Fair call - Towbar rating.


Hayman Reese list a 1600/160 for the H6 but it is $788 compared to the 1400/90 at $373. Guess that's why the original owner ticked the 'woosy' towbar option for mine....


Do they perform well? The H6 loves it, like there is nothing there. Certainly notice it when you get 200k's down the road and start to think about where next you can fill up

Thanks guy's, the H6 would certainly be the best option for towing my van, its' more the fact that i've been given the chance to purchase a 2.5l Outback at a very cheep price, but if it won't tow the van safely it's not worth pursuing. I guess the only way to really know is to hook it up and take it for a test drive... Thanks again.

Cheers

John

Just to stir it up. 5 points to consider:

An auto Outback will be a good investment if interested in towing more often. The auto box will reduce backlash and clunking from towing and also provide an auto's torque multiplication, better parking ease etc. For normal driving, I can't stand an auto... it has to be manual for me, especially the 2.5 four cyl. which sounds glorious compared to the 3.0H6.

The difference in power between the two motors won't be quite so noticeable when you're towing since you're not going to be revving it in the region that the H6 really gets its power up. If you find you really need more power from the 2.5 then just click it into low range up those hills or when parking (on a manual only of course) since that's what it's been installed for. I think the 2.5 has better low rev torque than the H6 anyway it's just that the auto box makes up for it.

The H6 auto box needs a transmission cooler kit installed. Subaru has/had it as an option to buy as part of the towing kit.

Economy? Debatable. Consider your purchase price difference, the fact that the H6 wants premium and what about the rest of the year that you're not towing? The handling of the 2.5 is better since the front end is lighter.

One last point. As far as towing capacity is concerned. You're more than likely to go over either one of the two vehicles GVM anyway if you factor in luggage and passengers. Remember that the maximum towing capacity is affected by these as well. Take your pick.

(Can't half tell I'm biased toward the manual can you? Why not.... I used to have one)

subalex wrote: The H6 auto box needs a transmission cooler kit installed. Subaru has/had it as an option to buy as part of the towing kit.

So does the 4 cyl.