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I have an engineer coming in a few weeks to certify my engine conversion.
I then have to take it over the pits for a blueslip before i can notify the RTA of my changes.

A little background for those who dont know what i have

-92 L series converted to EA82 Turbo
-Lib WAIC and Forester turbo (all installed very neatly, just missing the turbo heat shield)
-14" king wheels with 185/65r14 rubber (this im a little woried about, they stick out about 20mm each side)
-Bit of free-play in the steering (having a look at it this weekend)
-All original suspension bushes except for sway bar


Now, i have a feeling that im gonna get knocked back for something (they always find something to knock back, even just for rego)

So could i please have a few pointers of things i should check before i take it to the engineer?

Cheers

they will knock you back on the gyres for sure but its cheap and easy enough to get the guards rolled out otherwise go to a 4x4 shop and get some plastic flares but if you make it perfect before you go they will take it easier on you maybe even of you off on things but ask you to get them fixed.

I once went through the process of legally registering a Nissan FJ20 turbo engine in an 81 Bluebird (std is L20B) and it was really not that hard .

Your huge advantage is that what you've done with the EA82T in L wagon was a factory option so it literally all bolts in with factory parts . I doubt they'd even realise the turbo was non std unless the pipes are a bit wooly .
Emissions wise we had that engine in RX Turbo sedans here so no hassles there . Luckily the brakes are the same at the front and a wagon is heavier than a sedan so the power to weight ratio is lower than an RX .

So really provided it all looks factory , and it should , and all the usual no obvious fluid leaks it should sail through engine wise .
I'd have held off on the WAIC because that wasn't a factory option and won't look std . I'm sure you could rip it off and use the std pipework till it's gone past the inspection . Afterwards ...

Make sure you have the receipt for the engine and I'd get a weighbridge ticket so that you can show the RTA that the difference is trivial .

Wheels is one area where you could do worse than to fit std ones - even RX ones again temporarily . I think you should aim to have the thing look std from top to tail wherever possible .

Aside from a legal exhaust (std may fit and look innocent) it's just another inspection .

In Sinn City Blueslips are done by approved inspection stations not the RTA because they out source the tea lady these days .

I'd speak to the engineer about your conversion before he/she looks at it because they'll soon tell you if they're not happy with the idea .

Engineers report assures the RTA that the mods were done to an acceptable std , a blueslip is basically a compliance check for a vehicle not registered in its current state .

Dont get in a tizz because successful conversions go on all the time .

Cheers A .

because the waic actually says SUBARU INTERCOOLER i reckon it'll be fine- they wont know it didnt come with the ea82. unless the mounting brackets are bad.
def get your rubber flares on.
check for torque steer/alignment which no doubt it will have some. should be ok as long as its not too bad. it is fwd ahah

check balljoints- i had to do that. and then the interior bits- seatbelts retract properly, no cuts or tears in seats.

Thanks guys

So far i have come up with a few things that need attention

1. Turbo Heat shield
2. Exhaust leak between heads and headers
3. I'll swap my old 13"s back on for the inspection.
4. Check suspension bushes
5. Steering is a little sloppy/loose
6. Unidentified "clonk" on deaceleration

or while you have engineer, get the soft flares to extend your gurds so the eng can include the 14s on the cert.

make sure all your mods are certified so no doodle comes along to knock something engineer missed

have all your engine and vin recorded in nice size print and have real thing clean and visible for engineer to check- then check eng has got all detals correct - i seen a few mistakes of engineers carried through on rta papers involving numbers

intercoler is fine as long as you arent using a pod filter... 1 intake mod is aloud

...youse guys are soooo lucky

SA has THE hardest compliance regs and inspection

My last modded vehicle was rejected for a 20mm tear in the rear seat...

Dress up, don't look like a 'dude' and be sensiable...most inspectors like cars and modifying cars

goodluck

sven

Not sure if you have Clark Rubber over there but my Brother picked up enough 60mm flairing for his 4runner for only $65. Better then $180 at a 4x4 shop.

Thanks Phiz, im going to Coffs Harbour today, i'll pop into Clark while im there.

Do i need to get 14 wheels engineered? i thought i you could go up one wheel size without problems.

Keep the suggestions coming.

NSW RTA will allow a rolling tyre diameter increase of 15mm

I found there is a 5 mm difference between 175/70 13 and 185/65 13 (the shorter tyre) BUT to stick them side by side the 175 looks to be 20 taller in standing, inflated height than the the 185 - to give you an idea

It is the tyre rolling diameter or some such rule that is the concern and clearance and bodyline. And in FWD case also rim width or etra outside width
NSW RTA tech standards 1300 137 302

The book that name escapes me at the moment about the same size as a Gregories car manual is what is used to refer to to to work out what can be used, most tyre places and Blue Slip AUVIS staions need them to refer to. The actual rim diameter is not the concern. 564mm is close to the 175/70 13 tyre indicated by the tyre placard (Blue Slippers ref point)

Thanks

I went to clark rubber and got the flaring, i bought 4m of it cos i wasnt sure how much i needed and it cost me $38.

As far as tyres go, stock 175/70r13 has a diameter of 575.2mm and the new 185/65r14 have a diameter of 596.1mm

Thats 20.9mm difference, so that means i will have to swap my 13" back on.

Gotta work on my turbo heatshield now, i cut up a stainless steel kettle and will use it cos i cant find a stock one anywhere.

unless an engineer can spec the 14's with your cert - that is what I was getting at. The other is just what blue slippers and tyre merchants can refer to . An engineer may simply state that the 14's are a common allowable modifcation

From what I've heard about engineering wheels and tyres the 14" DR's are impossible to get legal because of the extra track they give. Engineers can't engineer it because its outside the rules. But maybe I'm wrong. Just get it good with the 13's and stick the 14's on it later. They don't look out of place and thats the most important thing.

I was under the impresion that the rules are for the AUVIS insectors to follow and engineers can go beyond that in circumstances. If you gogle Steve McClaren 2 door TC Cortina you may find pics of his "MONSTER' semi racing slick/ road legal engineered tyres on the rear. This is like a fully re engineered TC under the skin so may be in a better position to qualify. Nude nut spent over 200, 000 dollars on it over 13 years !!

Are there any legal ramifications if i have a crash and i have 14" wheels that aren't technically legal?

if the engineer signs them off in the report there are no legal ramifications that can come back on to you, as long as you have flairs and all that to cover the wheels you will be right. it is every thing that changes from the enginerrs cert that will void the cert.

if you dont get them done and you have an accident then they can if it is deemed fault by the tryes void all insurance meaning you cop all the costs. (but most insurance companys still cover larger tyres... just look at big 4wds getting round on 35's )

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Is a Tyre and wheel calculator, tells you how far out your speedo will be from factory after changing the sizes around.

I enquired ages ago about 14in wheels from Subaru - available at $400 a piece, so not sure what that does about "aren't technically legal" - sure theres the adr sticker on the door frame, but.......
hmm, hey if FROG about, he might like to lookup and see if there's still a part num or something.