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clean the forester, which was much needed
changed the brumby gearbox oil today shifts like butter now
will change motor oil and filter tomorrow

Droped the 3 inch strut tops of at the welders to add an inch on for 4 inch lift today, pretty excited to put it in. Looks good tho with the stock hight and 14" sunies and 27" buckshot mudders. Rally car style! But rubs some times

Mitchhsj wrote:Droped the 3 inch strut tops of at the welders to add an inch on for 4 inch lift today, pretty excited to put it in. Looks good tho with the stock hight and 14" sunies and 27" buckshot mudders. Rally car style! But rubs some times

what car is this on? how are the cv's going to go?

It's on an L series mate. Should be rite really it's only 1 inch higher than stock well I have put 10mm spacer on the body blocks too so it's really only 15 mm spring lift..

Mitchhsj wrote:It's on an L series mate. Should be rite really it's only 1 inch higher than stock well I have put 10mm spacer on the body blocks too so it's really only 15 mm spring lift..

ah ok i didnt realise it had body lift as well. should look great. what size tyres are you hoping to run?

I already have 27" muddies on it with sun raisers looks great.. I don't want to go any bigger or it might stuff with my steering and brakes and be really slow haha

Fitted the crossbred 2" lift kit.
PITA due to bolts shearing off in the chassis rail
All done now though once I properly tighten.

Over the past 3 weekends bit by bit worked on the L series front end and firstly regreased both the inner and outer CV's and replaced the wheel bearings/seals on the passenger side. Boots good so left them. Also found on this side the inner CV locking pin to gearbox spline was broken in 2. Very odd so found a 2nd hand spare in the bits tray and replaced it too.
This weekend just gone did the same to the drivers side but also replaced the CV boots.
The car had for the past couple of months been getting noisier under load with the usual CV "clicking and clattering" firstly around corners then all the time and I guessed it would be the drivers side inner CV as it sits so close to the exhaust. This certainly was the issue and it was nearly dry. Cleaned it out, regreased fitted the new boot and noise all gone.
Also worth noting our REPCO (same for all REPCO's maybe) have a 20% off pricing for all NRMA card holders for the month of July. Makes buying stuff a lot cheaper.

Yep.
Nrma/ raa whoever you have.
Normally 10%, selected months 20%.

My tail lights, corner lights and licence plate illuminator now work... mysteriously.
All I did was replace 15A fuses, but in this sequence; "position" first, then the "tail light illuminator."
Curiously, my spotlights don't turn on now.
But I'm happy because at least I can drive at night, legally.

I switched to thicker oil to help with my death-rattle; 40W-70 from 20W-50
The rattle is still there, but doesn't rattle as easily and the rattle sound volume is much more faint.
Hopefully this will double my EA82's remaining life expectancy.

got replacement struts, springs and strut tops, with replacement disks and hubs in the front of the Brumby on Saturday... hr and half to figure out the left side strut isntall... half hour for the second one... always the way isn't it AND I didn't break anything doing it

picked up the vortex brakes from the shop, all recoed and shiz.

replaced y pipe gaskets on the brumby no more coughing an spluttering

also ajusted my strut tops to try and get my camber in a better position

Rumbl1n wrote:replaced y pipe gaskets on the brumby no more coughing an spluttering

Another trick is to use the high temp silicone. I was a non believer but was out of options, now I swear by it. Trick is to clean both surfaces well then apply the silicone and bolt it together. Leave the car overnight if you can. If not, a short run won't hurt so long as you're not loading up the exhaust pipe, eg for putting in or out of the shed/yard. I wouldn't go for a drive before the stuff had set

Sunnie the Brumby will cop this treatment very shortly

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:Another trick is to use the high temp silicone. I was a non believer but was out of options, now I swear by it. Trick is to clean both surfaces well then apply the silicone and bolt it together. Leave the car overnight if you can. If not, a short run won't hurt so long as you're not loading up the exhaust pipe, eg for putting in or out of the shed/yard. I wouldn't go for a drive before the stuff had set

Sunnie the Brumby will cop this treatment very shortly

Cheers

Bennie

I used high temp silicone on the new gaskets just to be safe the leak was driving me crazy think its from moving stuff around so much when doing the lift

Well i dont know if its "improve" but I hope so , stripped the inside of my truck to give it a good clean and now I am trying to source some rubber bushes to fix my standard Brumby sloppy stick syndrome:shock:. Can anybody point me in the right direction for those ? thanks "MO"

I did nothing to our subis today (changed the brake pads on the triumph...). But, I did notice that the guy half a dozen houses down has a SVX in the driveway.

sholinguteman wrote:Well i dont know if its "improve" but I hope so , stripped the inside of my truck to give it a good clean and now I am trying to source some rubber bushes to fix my standard Brumby sloppy stick syndrome:shock:. Can anybody point me in the right direction for those ? thanks "MO"

Easily available OME - can either a a simple bush the size of your fingernail or the whole shifter kit.

Not all all expensive

bought some new wheels for brumby. in addition to the 15" offroad steelies haha.

you get the ******** specials ?