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Getting it nicely set up for touring

Tigger wrote: Gibbo installed our Thermo Fan switch too

Is that for the radiator fans? Can you share how it was done?

Well I didn't really improve my Subie today (apart from cleaning out the Brumby's engine with a big long run) But for further Subie improvements in the future I did get this:



Securely bolted to the floor and even though it is 12 chinese tons it should be more than enough for pressing out/in wheel bearings and suspension bushings. It needs a few minor mods I think like some nylon pads between the horizontal ram and the side pillars, to make it slide nice and smooth and not rattle up and down. This press cost precisely the same amount as the labor cost for getting my last front bearing replaced on the ute. So 1 bearing fix and it's paid for itself With this and my big air compressor I can now fix pretty much anything car related

El_Freddo wrote:Equal length extractors will gain some kw at the flywheel but you will drop the subi beat - it's all about exhaust pulses. The factory Y pipe runs the left pulses into the right hand pulses hence the "thumping" sound.

By making things equal you effectively give the differing exhaust pulses a gap to fill and flow neatly like a set of gears meshing together.

So your H4 subi will now sound like a straight 4 cylinder...

2 inch from the cat back or the Y pipes back will be ample. It's more about the mufflers than the diameter. I've recently found out that 2 and a quarter inch on my EJ22 is too big for the engine for optimal performance

I've been hanging out with an awesome "old dude" that's been building exhausts for everything special since we were all in nappies...

Cheers

Bennie

Hey Bennie,

Thanks man, I got another stock exhaust header from the junkyard with a 2" straight through pipe.

Sounded and felt so much better, after driving with the equal headers for 2 days, just couldn't live with it.



Sent from my MT2L03 using Tapatalk 2

Trailered it to another mechanic.

On the Brumby: new passenger side rear wheel bearing and 2 new rear brake slave cylinders. Not bad for a mornings work

Pulled my finger out and built an intermittent wiper controller for the wagon.

Etched a pcb,


populated it, plus all the stuff I forgot when designing it, suppose thats what I get for doing it at 11pm ,


That trimpot will eventually find its way into the cab, but for now It can stay right there. Pretty happy with the result, goes from about a 3 second pause to around 30 seconds. Its just a comparator and a charge pump. I think if I were to go it again I would use a proper oscillator.

Regards

Doug

Very nice Doug it looks like the one in my brumby minus the red flashing light and the black box to cover it


TOONGA

I used a white box....not racist or nothing .

Doug

So, after 14 years of owning an l series (and about 3 years after picking up a pair of second hand hella 140s), I've finally got the driving lights which I said I'd get when I bought the car.

Two switch options, on with highbeam, and on with ignition.

Nice to see I am not the only one with a slow fruition rate
Took me seven years to fit my oil pressure gauge .

how come the second switching option, off road ?

Well, I'd been trying to work out how to do it that way to use with fog lights, thought I'd give it a go.

If I ever actually put fog lights on I can use that circuit for them and make another one with just highbeam on for the driving lights.

blended an L Series shift gator onto a Brumby console



but found due to differences, and off set centre for hole, could not select first or third positions , so back to the slightly torn cloth backed vinyl boot. Not sure even if hole was central if have enough rooom for the throw in both selctions 135 24R , so will try another time, but , wile jigsaw is out, may just cut another adaptor ....

Any good at sewing? I used a 70 year old Singer to make a new vinyl boot for my wagon once Easy to un-pick the stitching of the old one, use it as a template.

Got a big box of goodies delivered to work today, made the Friday even sweeter Complete 4 wheel disc setup off a Vortex, hubs re-done in 4x114.3, wheels were a bonus extra

Busy weekend ahead!

Rear discs will be a bonus, what are you going to do with the front disc setup?

TOONGA

What do ya think?

Much research has told me that Vortex front brakes are the same as L series, and old posts from Paul RSR have him saying L series front brakes/backing plate will bolt up to the MY steering knuckle/wheel bearing assembly. If they don't? The Vortex knuckles were also included in the deal and I will have to change to L series lower control arms. Will be a pain if they don't bolt up, I've already put all new bearings and bushes in the My knucles/control arms...but at least I would have some nice new parts to swap into the ute

All this gear was off a 4WD Turbo Vort, the one nncoolg is wrecking.

something is weird about the MY & L Series brakes. Others have managed - seen pics! but the L stuff that I compared to MY fronts...not gonna work for me. With that stuff you have I would be shoving the L hub - just the 30 splined bit with wheel studs, separated from the L disc and slap it on the MY axle and see if the caliper and stuff lines up.

Difference between L hub and MY is the 30 spline inside for starters. MY spline goes right through, L spline stops about 8mm from the inside. L and MY CV axle spline and bearing surface dimensions have corresponding differences where the L's bearing mount surface is longer, seats inside the non splined bit of the L hub. You will likely get away with the L hub bolted to MY front disc coz they do, tried that much Also suspect my 84 MY sedan had an L hub one side, MY the other, MY calipers and discs both sides.

Calipers use different mounting bolt centres and L Series caliper swing bolts are supersized.

I might be a bit anal if going this path and wanna use L CV on MY shaft just to get the spline/no spline thing matching correctly if the stuff all bolts up right the rest of the way.

Check the offset of those rims to avoid disappointment too Sam

Oh yeah, good idea on making a new boot - will try a few more fail attempts first to get the L Series NVH quality first or see if can still get the biggerXD Falcon boots, trip to the wreckers maybe

Thanks for the info Jonno, If I can get away with it I would just put the Vortex/L series splined hubs on with the MY brakes, but hopefully the whole Vortex brake/backing plate assembly will bolt up. Only one way to find out! Either way I need all 4 hubs on the car because they are 4x114.3 stud pattern, no good having two of them on the back and 2 4x140 on the front. Offset of the included wheels is also a concern i.e. I have no idea what they are. If they fit they fit, if not well I have a few more choices now with a more common stud pattern.

*Edit*

Calipers use different mounting bolt centres and L Series caliper swing bolts are supersized.

Is the bolt center difference only between 2WD and 4WD models? I think I remember an old post of yours asking this question. 2WD L series having a smaller center distance, MY and L series 4WD having the same...or it doesn't matter if you use the L series backing plate...I'm itching to get out there now, I'll report back with pics later tonight.

the offset query was just based on the look of those rims and my tidy on a Vortex 15's that tuck (that is tuck) in on my Brumby, compared to other rims.

You won't have the first MY to be wearing Vortex bits by the time you finish

The verdict is in; L series front callipers etc won't bolt up to the MY wheel bearing housing, only way to get L series front brakes is to put in the L series housing with L series lower control arms, probably needing L series drive shafts as well.

Apart from that, I got the disc rear end sorted and got the Vortex 15" alloys bolted onto the wagon with the re-drilled 4 x 114.3 hubs and man do they look sweet They sort of resemble the Scorpion rims design which is what I wanted but in alloy silver I think they look better. Was never a huge fan of white wheels. The offset seems to be alright as they don't stick out. There is "OFF 55" stamped inside the wheel so I guess that is offset +55? Everything clears on the inside and I think there will be no scrubbing inside the front guards. With a 2" lift kit there will be no problems so hopefully I can find some 25" A/T tyres to go on them. Considering I only wanted the rear discs, these wheels were a bit of a bonus in the end.

Disc brake rear!

Vortex alloys, looking good


Safely inside the guards