What Do I Look For When Buying A 1998 To 2000 Outback?

Wraith · Post by **Wraith** » Wed May 16, 2007 4:01 pm

Hi everyone

been a while since i posted.

looking to update from my L series cars.

sold them off, and looking for a hassle free if possible transition up to an outback, 1998 to 2000 vintage.

what sort of things should i look for?? rust? wheel bearings? head gaskets? etc etc.

just the typical things that people here have had experience with.

looking to get one with 150,000km or less. what issues should i look for when i go to the yards and kick the tyres?

thanx everyone in advance.

wraith

Fatz · Post by **Fatz** » Wed May 16, 2007 5:33 pm

i think (dont quote me) that the outbacks 2.5 had some Head or Head Gasket issues?
My old man had a 98 model for 4 or so years, and he had no problems apart form a Oxy sensor.
Probably no help, but thought id chip in anyway.
Cheers

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Wed May 16, 2007 7:14 pm

Bought a '99 Outback new and it's now got 140,000km on it. Generally been trouble free but there have been a couple of little niggly things.

Head gasket. Apparently this era EJ25 has a poorly designed head gasket and mine leaked around the 100,000km mark. Had it replaced at the major service. Haven't had any other engine problems.

The centre rear seatbelt design is a love or hate item. Some people who have used it find it a pain. Other seatbelts retracting speed is slow and it's easy for the seatbelts to get caught up in the door when closing.

Headlights are crap. Definately needs a bulb upgrade. I fitted plus60 narva xenon bulbs for low beam, and 100w halogen for high beam. Helped a bit, but I still found the output unsatisfactory and ended up fitting driving lights as well.

Little door flap on the centre console is delicate and apparantly easily broken. Just treat it gentle and it should be okay. Mines still intact but I've seen a few secondhand Outbacks / Liberty's of that era with broken flaps.

EJ25 seems to respond better with 98ron fuel. Less hesitation in 3rd gear around town. Unmodified I used to get around 8.6 on the highway and 10 litres per 100km around town. Modified, I get around 10 litres everywhere now. Probably got something to do with the 3" lift, bullbar and grippy tires.

Front right quarter panel dents easily if you headbutt it.

Remote central locking. Only thing which tells you it worked is a soft clunk from the door locks. No indicator light flash or horn chirp with this model. If anyone is aware of a easy fix to make the indicators flash, I'm interested to know about it.

Radio. Rear window antenna wire is a bit directional on the AM stations, but the CD player (clarion) is pretty good. The Outbacks came with front tweeters which help sound quality.

Low range indicator light on mine is intermittent. Dunno if this is a common fault.

Headlight / indicator stalk was replaced last year. Developed an undesirable fault .... when driving at night time, indicate to turn left - headlights would switch off. Was a connection problem somewhere in the stalk. Replaced the faulty stalk with a new one.

As I said - just little niggly things.

Jack

Post by **yarney** » Wed May 16, 2007 7:36 pm

Jack that was an epic reply lol

Jan

90brumby · Post by **90brumby** » Wed May 16, 2007 9:30 pm

with that sort of k's just make sure its had its timing belts done have seen a coulple snap recently (non subaru tho)

tristan

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Wed May 16, 2007 10:20 pm

theres an easy fix for not getting any feedback when you lock the thing.

mount a 12V buzzer in the tailgate and wire it into the lock actuator so when the lock is driven it beeps.

Wraith · Post by **Wraith** » Thu May 17, 2007 10:18 am

thanx for the replies so far.

i have been told by both a mechanic at Makin and luby in Heidelberg, and also a Subaru Victoria Club member, to stay away from any sooby with a 2.5L DOHC engine, and 2.5L generally, because of the head gasket issues. Apperently they are letting go at 100k to 150k kms.

So that rules out all outbacks.

So im looking at Liberty's as well now, with the EJ22. Apperantly these are "bulletproof", as i have been told. With no head gasket issues at all.

They are also a bit cheaper than outbacks as well.

Any thoughts on the above comments.? I sure as hell dont wanna spend $20k on a 2000 model outback with 130,000kms and drive it for a year and pop a head gasket and fork out $3k on a repair.

So, any comments much appreciatted.

Thanx

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Thu May 17, 2007 2:37 pm

re '98+ outbacks, check service history if head gaskets fixed,
if it is, the fix is with improved head gaskets, so should forthwith be all good!
(well i hope so:rolleyes:)
OE shocks are probably tiered, so figure in cost to replace them.
I'm not too thrilled with all doors unlock/lock with driver door, would prefer an additional switch to do that,....might have to look into how that may be possible.
Ah!!the low range, what the f*** it there for, it makes no difference whatsoever.
I bet you'll notice that auto transmission is more commonly available too,...maybe it doesn't matter,certainly the low range is useless in manual anyway.

Jack · Post by **Jack** » Thu May 17, 2007 7:03 pm

I sure as hell dont wanna spend $20k on a 2000 model outback with 130,000kms and drive it for a year and pop a head gasket and fork out $3k on a repair.

Your repair pricing estimate is probably a tad high. When I had my head gasket replaced, I got charged $2090 and that included the 100,000km service.

As for the OEM low range - yep, it's crap but I discovered that fitting 4.444 ratios and a Scorpion gearset noticeably improves low range performance. For better offroading capability, 2" lift kits, 1" longer springs, bullbars, sumpguards, and (soon) rear bars / wheel carriers are all available for that generation Outback.

However, as mentioned - an EJ22 Liberty would probably be cheaper to buy.

Jack

cameron · Post by **cameron** » Sun May 20, 2007 6:50 pm

I love my '02 outback. I havn't done a head gasket yet but if it does, I will be O-ringing it and putting in coppers. The low range could be lower but I havn't been stuck yet. Driving lights are a must with the later gen as they are great for oncoming traffic but crap for you. The only thing I can guarrentee to fail is the cluch hose. I have replaced mine with a ST/ST braided hose that pressure tested to 1000psi. Enough said.

seacliff · Post by **seacliff** » Tue May 29, 2007 10:01 pm

HI mate im in the same postion as you, but i own a ford falcon 94 fairmont. I am Also looking for a 1998-2001 model.

I see people are talking about the heads on the 2.5L's, it that problem on all models? eg 1998-2007 or have subaru acturly fixed it? What are the general servicing cost like on the subys? how do i tell if a subaru has had its head done, and what type of head should it be replaced with? Is it only 2.5L Outbacks with the problem heads? are the foresters and libs okay?

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Tue May 29, 2007 10:25 pm

my parents have a 1996 2.5l wiht something like 260,000 and it has never needed any head gaskets or any major engine work liek that apart from having a couple of oil leaks it is all good..
apart from the fact it has more power than the tyrtes can handle lol its a great car with no problems

i no that has nothing to do really with 1998 onwards but still it might be intersting for someone

Wraith · Post by **Wraith** » Wed May 30, 2007 10:15 am

the general trend i have found out there, is to stay away from outbacks with the 2.5, or allow for a head gasket job at some point.

once repaired with the right gasket, then there isnt any further problems.

the 2.2 on the other hand, are considered virtually bullet proof.

i have been led to believe that subaru are well aware of the head gasket issue with the 2.5, but are not admitting anything publicly. when you bring the car in for a head job, the gaskets used are completly different to the ones used originally. once repaired however, with the new type gasket, the 2.5 also become bullet proof.

this was from a mechanic mate at makin and luby in heidelberg victoria - a sooby dealer.

based on all this, and also $$$$ issues, im going with a 1998 liberty. i love the outback, but its more expensive to buy, and then to allow for a "likely" gasket job as well, really knocks it on the head for me at least.

i found a 1998 liberty wagon with all the bells and whistles, 1 owner, 120,000kms, full service history for $11,000. waiting on RACV check tomorrow. if thats all good, its mine....

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Wed May 30, 2007 12:18 pm

I have had both Gen III Liberty and Gen III Outback, and I have to say the Outback is continuously a pleasure, whereas the Liberty was 'transport'.

chriSTIan · Post by **chriSTIan** » Wed May 30, 2007 8:43 pm

The biggest problem i heard was the weird clutch system they fitted on later gen3's,dual mass f/wheel i think,stay away or be prepared to retrofit to a std set up.

seacliff · Post by **seacliff** » Wed May 30, 2007 10:06 pm

well despite the problems ive read so far, i still have my heart set on an outback althrough i havent acturly driven one yet.... Ive found one i would like to buy and i will be checking it out tomorrow arvo after. I will hopefully join up the RAA and get an inspection along as i like it! Thanks Heaps everyones for the advice its been very useful for a sobie noob like me! One last question what are the differances between a 1999 outback and a 2002 outback, asfar as machanic changes they seem pritty similar too me.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Thu May 31, 2007 9:58 am

99 the lights don't flash when you use the remote, 02 they do, but that is a moderately easy thing to rectify. Also the key fob is separate in the earlier, part of the key in the later. I also believe that the lower grey section changed from a champagne sort of grey to a blue grey around then. Probably not a great deal more, maybe minor ecu changes etc - go for the latest you can afford though.

seacliff · Post by **seacliff** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 5:14 pm

one last noob question! Im looking at a october 98 model outback with 135 km and books, but i cant tell if the head has been done or not, its not recorded, is thier another way to tell E.G part number visual sign ect.

Also wot is the Part number for the proper head gasket?

Also how long these things go for, as long as they have been maintaned and what are the typical things that fail with age? Will they make 200 plus clicks with out any problems?

What are the 0-400 meter times for a stock outback?
Thanks heaps everyone! Awsome site and when i buy my outback i will be sticking around!!

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 10:37 pm

Matatak wrote:my parents have a 1996 2.5l ..... its a great car with no problems

as opposed to my previous post things have now changed as it has just cooked itself..which could mean head gasket has gone as all the coolant was pushed out due to overpressurising
i wouldn't say that means it has head gasket problems as it is almost at 260000 but still normally last a bit longer from wt ive seen

SUBYDAZZ · Post by **SUBYDAZZ** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:32 pm

What does it actually cost just to replace the head gaskets, and any other associated things that must be replaced when the job is done. Can it be done on engine in the engine bay or does it require removing engine?