Front CASTLE nut Tension on Brumby.

Gazza01 · Post by **Gazza01** » Thu May 21, 2015 9:02 am

Can someone confirm that the FRONT Castle nut on the Brumby has to be pulled up to 194nm. I recently got back the young fellows Brumby and the front Castle nuts were just finger tight. I had weird noises in the front. I subsequently pulled them up till my tension bar ran out of tension which was no where near 194nm as my info seems to indicate. Sure no weird noises but a steady hum in the right front bearing. Maybe bearing has collapsed.

Proton mouse · Post by **Proton mouse** » Thu May 21, 2015 10:05 am

Not sure what the Nm should be, but I know it is MoFo tight.
I use an almost metre long breaker bar and have to stand/jump on it till the split pin can go through where it needs.

Gazza01 · Post by **Gazza01** » Thu May 21, 2015 2:49 pm

Yes sounds good to me. Exactly what I did the tension reading on the tension bar was over and beyond the metric/nm markings on the bar.

JP147 · Post by **JP147** » Thu May 21, 2015 6:41 pm

It is hard to get them too tight. You want them at least 194nm, tighter doesn't hurt. Like Proton Mouse said, get the torque you want and then keep going at least to the next hole.

The bearings are tough and can take a beating. I doubt they collapsed, but they will make noise when too loose.
Bearing noises will gradually get worse over time, so you will be able to tell. You can jack the wheel up and spin it and have a listen/feel, but some noises only come at speed.
Maybe take the rotor/hub off and push some grease into the outer bearing with your finger or a grease gun. Any excess will end up getting thrown out.
Also check your grease seals aren't torn.
Worst case scenario the bearing need replacing, but bearings are cheap. If you replace them, get new seals too.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Thu May 21, 2015 7:05 pm

Gazza01 wrote:Yes sounds good to me. Exactly what I did the tension reading on the tension bar was over and beyond the metric/nm markings on the bar.

You weren't jumping on your torque wrench were ya?

Yeah the hub nuts on these things must be super tight. I just use a big breaker bar and stand on it, maybe jump on it a bit to line up the pin hole. When you strip the thread on the axle is when it's too tight

I guess some people who don't know subies think there are tapered needle bearings in there and leave some slop on the axle nut. Leaving it loose can kill the bearings, but if you got it quick enough they should be fine, maybe a little noisy but then I put brand new bearings in one side of mine and they started humming like an electric motor about 1000k's later; they were "sealed" bearings but they didn't look so sealed after that short amount of time and all the lube leaked out.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu May 21, 2015 7:48 pm

This is right of passage!

Yep correct at 194 or 196nm!! I've got a 3/4 inch breaker bar specifically for this job - and I jump on it as others have mentioned.

If they've been loose for sometime your bearing health may have suffered. Prep up on bearing replacement - don't need a press, just a pin punch, hammer and some patience. Pulling the hub out of the vehicle is a great way to do it!

Cheers

Bennie

dfoyl · Post by **dfoyl** » Thu May 21, 2015 9:37 pm

If the car is running, the easiest way is to set the breaker bar against the ground and drive backward in 4wd low (this is assuming you have the stock wheels and pop off the centre cap). But yes, I have been down the path of a big breaker bar and jumping from height. It comes down to the speed of the movement rather than pure weight, the "harder" you kick it, the easier it is to do.

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:16 pm

I've never had a problem just doing them up by standing on a 600mm breaker bar. Before I had the 36mm socket I'd just use an adjustable wrench and stand on that (still no issues with that method). I'd say you're safe with 120nm+

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 1:27 am

All above are good statements and experiences. Remember though in the absence of a suitable torque wrench or experience by 'feel', that 195Nm of torque is approx 20Kgf/meter.

So if your 'extention bar' whatever that maybe is 1 meter between where you apply the force (put your foot or body weight )is to where the force is exerted (socket, shifter jaws etc) and you jump on in it with a 90kg body mass, you may actually over-tighten. E.g 90kgf/m = 900Nm - approx.

How awesome if your engine produced that much torque!

This might lead to exceeding the yield strength of the castle nut and/or axle shaft thread. Fine for the bearings and seals maybe, but not so good if you hit something while off roading or otherwise.

Also you may not be able to use the threads concerned again. because next time you R+R those bits you tighten them up again in a similar way and actually strip/destroy the threads.

Consider that the specified tightening torque for the four wheel nuts on each wheel of these older Subaru's is 95Nm. If you doubled that every time you changed a wheel (Think tyre shops and their rattle guns ) you would go through wheel studs and wheel nuts like front brake pads.

Now Ive had my rant and it was fun. Feel free to provide constructive criticism. I like to think I have

haha

J.