issue with an L series, any advice welcome

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 3:08 pm

We were driving our 92 L series to town today and during the 45km journey the AC suddenly stopped, the temp gauge dropped to cold and the engine ran rough at lower rpm's. When I stopped the dash lights werent working and I immediately checked the fuse and it was blown, I replaced it and when I restarted it blew again. I managed to get home but the car wont idle anymore, I cant see anything obviously wrong like broken belts etc Any ideas or suggestions appreciated

julian · Post by **julian** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:03 am

Are oil and coolant levels sufficient? Is there coolant in the oil or vice versa?

Are your front and rear lights affected by the blown fuse?

Do you have an aftermarket stereo?
If you do it would pay to check what it is drawing power from, as the sudden nature of the failure suggests electrical fault that is shorting out the dash power and causing the failure.

Give us a few more hints and we might be able to help a bit more!

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:58 am

If a fuse is blown mightn't this take out the anti run on solenoid on the carby and so not let the car idle ?
Its this way with the MY's anyway.
This is for the issue of the car not idling anyway.

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:23 am

Thanks Julian and Cliff, no blown head gasket fortunately, car never overheated, Cliff I think you are right as all the issues occurred simultaneously so Im assuming all are related. No aftermarket electrics so something has 'gone', thought it may have been the voltage regulator as it popped the spared fuse immediately on starting. Our local electrician must be related to Capt Thunderbolt so Id rather not give him Carte Blanch @ $90 an hour looking for something that may be owner fixable. You guys have the reputation of really supporting sube owners and I thank you all for that. What's my next step please?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:29 am

isolate what else runs on that circuit

a test lamp is handy or digital multi meter

when dash lights and tail lights are off same fuse is good design as no dash lights tells you have no tail lights.

If you have a tow electrical connector - they can get wet, mud and cause fuses to blow.

Keep the AC off until you find problem eh ?

Did Thunderbolt live long enough to father any children ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Captain_Thunderbolt

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 12:07 pm

Someone tell me if I am on the wrong track here but keeping on the whole "wont idle" direction only, to get the car going (and idling) I have in the past unscrewed the anti run on solenoid body and pulled the piston/needle assembly and spring out (need to remember the spring) and screwed the body only back in.
I don't know where the solenoid is located on the L series carby though and while my comments aren't really helping with the reasons for the fuse(s) blowing pulling the solenoid internals may at least get the car to idle to get it to someone to assist with repairs.
Thought at $90 an hour I imagine this may not be an option.
Others comments on tracing wiring issues are all good.
I was going to ask if you had fitted any accessories such as stereo or spot lights but you mentioned noting has been fitted so as already stated it must be something already fitted.

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:28 pm

I had another go at it today, changed the fuse, turned on the ignition, all is well, started fine, ran for about three seconds then click, engine stalls, daughter spotted a puff of smoke from the engine bay (wasnt specific though) I've checked for wear on the loom. Could the voltage regulator be at fault and where would I find it please?

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 6:09 pm

The regulator is inside the alternator, its part of the alternator.
Got a multimeter?

L-nutter · Post by **L-nutter** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:09 pm

If you have time, and a bunch of spare fuses..process of elimination is the best way...As per all the above comments...

Also, which fuse is blowing?
If it is not blowing when the ignition is on , and only when started, make sure A/C is off - as per steptoe. And any other accessories too. That would eliminate the A/C as the problem...That is a weird set of symptoms though.
I assume you could disconnect (unplug)the alternator (making sure the wires you take off are taped up and not going to touch anything else) and then start it and see if the fuse still blows...I haven't tried this, but assuming your battery is fully charged, it would run the car fine until it drained down - long enough for test purposes.
Is the car lifted or modified? it may pay to check the wiring looms around the engine bay. I've had a couple of wires 'rubbed through' against the chassis, but only on modified L's.
Might sound old school, but looking for where the smoke comes from can help you too

Hope this helps!

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:16 pm

thanks ran out of fuses so couldnt look for the smoke again, looks like the fan fuse has gone as well, all the lights blinkers work, just the dash lights fan and the rough idle

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:43 pm

wires on the idle solenoid always look dodgy near on the carby - maybe check nothing is earthing that wire out, or disconnect it at its connector and get more fuses or ciggy packet foil ....PFOOFA !!

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 5:51 pm

went through another pack of fuses, got a puff of smoke from under the carby, runs fine for a minute then 'click' and runs rough

looks like a job for the professionals, btw what electricals are under the air filter?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 10:26 pm

the idle cut solenoid as mentioned before by someone. If you take it to a professional and give them all the tips as to where, what and when, they may likely suggest the solenoid is no longer available, hit you $110 minimum and send you on your way.
Are you not able to rip the air box off on your own and have a look - look for a wire connector to a solenoidy thing mounted in the carby side ? Disconnect that, buy another fuse and see if it not blow. You may use a multimeter and find a short inside the solenoid, find a new or good second hand solenoid, test it, connect it up and see

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Fri Nov 28, 2014 11:06 pm

thanks will give it a crack tomorrow, was a little inhibited by all the pollution gear hooked up to that airbox

Nubaru · Post by **Nubaru** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:22 am

ha ! What makes you think a worker being paid 16 bucks an hour is going to know a near prehistoric L Series any better than his boss charging you heaps, will be under the pump, not have access to resources to put it all back together, maybe not care either! Came in not running, may as well leave not running ! Masking tape makes great label space for any vacuum hose and wire set. Make notes or even hey - youtube it blow by blow

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 8:11 am

thanks guys

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 11:30 am

I took the air cleaner off and had a better look. I disconnected a plug at the back of the carby that runs to several places on the carby, it worked and I reconnected the connection whilst it ran and no blow, took it for a drive all sweet, went downtown for a celebratory coffee, when I restarted 'pop' back to the drawing board. I did notice a little burnt insulation on the bowl vent valve (what ever this does) but I have to disconnect it and the idle cut-off solenoid and a line that goes to the auto-choke. Where to from here o great ones please

Nubaru · Post by **Nubaru** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 11:49 am

Well, wouldn't you say you were on top of it now? The burnt looking component, whatever you wanna call it, needs to be tested or replaced at least isolate one item from another for starters. The bowl vent likely allows bowl to vent only during engine operation and to charcoal cannister ? It is likely a necessary item for correct functioning. Can you chase a wrecker for a carby either for bits or straight swap ?. We can only hold your hand for so long ...

instal a fuse all of its own for the bowl vent - that way idle should not cut out if it is bowl vent causing short. Stick fuse right at carby using two insulated female crimp connectors of the spade type that fit direct to fuse blade male spades.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 1:23 pm

The fuel bowl vent is not strictly necessary for engine operation, it just vents the bowl to the charcoal canister so it doesn't go to atmosphere. If it has burnt insulation on it though I would say it's not doing what it should, replacement seems necessary.

Certainly sounds like you've got some funky stuff going on in that carby, I would agree with what others have said regarding the idle cut off solenoid too, could be interfering when it shouldn't. If you can get to a wreckers yard or U-pull it then a used carbie of one of these should cost peanuts, even if you only use it to swap the dodgy solenoids over.

danceswithdingoes · Post by **danceswithdingoes** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:33 pm

I think I fixed it by severing the wire going to the fuel bowl vent solenoid and the fuse popping has stopped, fingers crossed

thank you to all for your help, its been many years since I've had my hands dirty