L series rear brake adjustment

v81200 · Post by **v81200** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:56 pm

just done a full service on my 94 L wagon and found rear wheel cylinders leaking (they were new 18 months ago with pads )(rear pads are still 5mm thick ) so i honed and replaced the cups now i cant seem to adjust the rears up, has a low pedal, 1 pump and they are back to top with a solid pedal( not spongey ) i have never had a brake problem with it before can anyone help on the adjustment

jims · Post by **jims** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 11:41 pm

Did you adjust the brake shoes out after fiddling around in there? If they have too far to travel before they make contact with the drum the length in your brake pedal will increase, and feel spongy. I have found you get the best pedal feel by adjusting them out until the point that you can just hear them lightly rubbing on the inside of the drum when you spin the wheel.

James

tony · Post by **tony** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:12 am

generally I wind it up till the wheel locks then back off about 3 0r 4 clicks, remember to pump the pedal in between clicks to keep the shoes centred or you will never get it right. if still too tight back off another click or 2, won't hurt and you don't want to drive around with the rear brakes rubbing. a good test is to feel the centre of the hub after driving for about 10 minutes if it feels hot they are too tight if not warm they are not tight enough

v81200 · Post by **v81200** » Sat Mar 30, 2013 11:39 am

thank you for the replies, i pulled them back off this morning and found the problem to be sticky adjusters(due to the leaking wheel cylinders and brake dust) as these work on a cam it is hard to adjust up and then back off, so i rewashed them down and put new copper grease on them and they are back to what they should be, i keep reading where people have said that the MY and L series have bad brakes i have never found a problem with these i find the biggest problem is that people buy the cheapest pads they can find,(i use ferodo material for my rear drums(as i do my own bond and rivet) and try and buy the same for the fronts, i always skim my discs and drums to remove the glassy finish that you get with organic pads every 12-18 months, i run 15'" wheels(6 stud conversion) with 215,70 A/T tyres and have never had a brake issue before

tony · Post by **tony** » Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:24 am

wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just run some wet and dry around the drums and rotors rather than machining them all the time? the glaze comes off easy enough. and you will have to be continually buying rotors and drums.

v81200 · Post by **v81200** » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:33 pm

i have my own lathe and access to a mill so it easy for me and when i say a skim it is only 0.05 of a mm at a time and i know they are round i also have a large electro magnet for crack testing as i found hair line cracks in one of my front discs last time i did this i always grab discs and drums from wreckers whenever i go there for all sorts of cars so i have plenty in stock