new member, subaru brumby

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Sep 28, 2011 1:51 pm

I didn't think Vortices could get 4 wheel alignments but someone tells me otherwise - even got a printout from a dealer doing before and after readouts on it. maybe the brumby can too but cannot see where or how myself. Can't see it with the Vortex either

What is your bump stop meaure?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:18 pm

johnno010684 wrote:then yes i have been driving it for a few days after i put new rims on. the old tyres were really worn on the outside and still looks the same after the new shocks. can you get wheel alignments on these things?

Yes every vehicle can get a wheel alignment done. The problem with the brumby, MY and L series is that their camber is built in - aka not adjustable and this is the reason why they wear on the outside of the tyres.

If your rears are wearing on the outside I know with the L series you can undo the three bolts that hold the swing arm to the outside arm to the K frame, then you either let it drop or get a jack to jack it up, this will change the camber of the rear tyres. I'm not sure if the brumby and MYs are the same as I've a) not had to do it and b) never looked into it. I've used this trick on my L series.

The 80's subarus are considered only front wheel adjustable by all the service books. The liberty is 4 wheel adjustable as are the rest of the subarus from then on.

Cheers

Bennie

johnno010684 · Post by **johnno010684** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:48 pm

problem guys! i was driving out the road the other day on dirt not too far from home, and noticed the temp gauge getting towards the top line while i was shutting a gate. it got a little better as i drove down the road >80kmh i got home let it idle and my thermo fans were not cutting in at all. they have always worked as they sometimes stay on when i leave the ignition on so i know they were ok. i know the radiator is shagged so i straight away brought a brand new one off ebay and it just arrived today. but where do i start with the thermo fans? oh and the previous owner removed all a/c parts dont know why!

pitrack_1 · Post by **pitrack_1** » Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:56 pm

johnno010684 wrote:problem guys! i was driving out the road the other day on dirt not too far from home, and noticed the temp gauge getting towards the top line while i was shutting a gate. it got a little better as i drove down the road >80kmh i got home let it idle and my thermo fans were not cutting in at all. they have always worked as they sometimes stay on when i leave the ignition on so i know they were ok. i know the radiator is shagged so i straight away brought a brand new one off ebay and it just arrived today. but where do i start with the thermo fans?

First thing is, if the temp goes high again, you can use the heater- assuming it's still working- as a small emergency radiator. Put the temp control to hot, blower fan full, vent (not recirc), and direct the hot air out of the vehicle (windows down, etc) through the vents. Drive gently. Don't direct the blast of hot air to demist, it could crack the windscreen esp. if you've already got damage (bullseye/star/etc).

Some fan checks:
1) Check fuse(s). If it's blown, replace with correct size. If it blows again, find out why and not with a larger fuse or piece of wire!
2) Check all connections / wires. There should be a thermoswitch on/near (I assume) the thermostat somewhere. It's possible a wire/connector has come off or wires damaged somewhere? If it's on/near the radiator, perhaps a blockage is preventing it working properly.
3) Can check the fans manually by connecting 12V across their terminals, just to be sure (but not if fuse blowing).
4) Checking the operation of the thermo switch is a bit more complicated and you may need specs for it. Perhaps one of the auto electricians on here could help out? Gannon?
5) If the thermoswitch controls a relay, which controls the fans, check the relay is not stuck. Sometimes a tap with the handle of a screwdriver will free it. Otherwise, perhaps new relay e.g stuck terminals, burnt out coil.

johnno010684 wrote:oh and the previous owner removed all a/c parts dont know why!

Probably died- may have obstructed other bits e.g radiator replacement in the past. Also a waste of space and weight if not working. Possibly sold bits for money too.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:09 pm

There is an earth wire at the top of the radiator to earth on the body, think it may serve two porposes, one to earth the rad fan switch other for stray current? I kept having radiators spring leaks due to the solder going bad or something in my Brumby. I fitted a fatter earth cable and all woes fixed - about five years now. You can test the RHS fan by just earthing the wire that goes to the single pin rad switch - should activate fans with acc or IGN on - watch ya fingers and other bits

johnno010684 · Post by **johnno010684** » Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:12 pm

all sorted lads, it was the earth on the radiator! i have not seen the earth wire you talk about steptoe? however for future problems and to save my new radiator i will put a thicker earth from rad to body.

Another Update: mechanic just called today for a quote i asked for,
- new clutch + spigot bearing, oil, coolant fitted =$780
- new pass side cv joint fitted = $280
- also just bought some narva 7" blue spotties to fit on the bull bar

pitrack_1 · Post by **pitrack_1** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:37 am

Good one Steptoe, I'd forgotten about a radiator/fan sub-frame Earthing strap!

There's been a mention somewhere-or-other, perhaps the subaruforester.org forum, about currents causing troubles with radiators. Somehow I think someone possibly said it could be currents caused by slight voltage differences and proper grounding was pivotal to preventing this. Sounded exactly like what you were talking about.

johnno010684 · Post by **johnno010684** » Fri Oct 07, 2011 9:45 am

Probably died- may have obstructed other bits e.g radiator replacement in the past. Also a waste of space and weight if not working. Possibly sold bits for money too.[/QUOTE]

i still have the condenser which i have just put back in (he took it off to get more air through shagged radiator) so with a new rad it should be ok, compressor is probly stuffed, he also removed all sump guards which i have put back on. only thing missing for the air con is a hose that goes from pass side by radiator cap to condenser i think! i have to go look at one with air con so i know what bits to get.

pitrack_1 · Post by **pitrack_1** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 12:24 am

Assuming the condensor was mounted in front of the radiator, make sure it hasn't been holed and that's why the A/C wasn't working.

Also, since your vehicle is pre-mid-90's it would have worked on the 'old gas' R12, which has been superseded. The replacement R134a is more ozone friendly but less efficient and runs at higher pressure.

The trap is, R134a runs at higher pressure/less efficiency. So your A/C may/will require modifications from it's original config, this may have been done already (check for stickers). You will need a new drier and may need a new compressor+other parts to cope with the new gas anyway.

R134a is not a 'drop in' for R12 as the oils that circulate with each gas are gas-specific and non-cross-compatible, as are the properties (pressures, efficiencies).

Some history:
1) Originally gas probably R12 (freon) which was bad for the ozone layer and is now banned and no longer available. It was phased out ~mid 1990s.

2) The replacement is/was R134a, which some systems were good enough to handle with appropriate modifications. Drawbacks are reduced efficiency, higher pressure and is it's a greenhouse gas, far worse that CO2.

3) There may be a new refrigerant coming, HFO-1234YF

This is what my 1990 N13 Pulsar has gone through: it was converted from R12 to R134a on the original compressor, with reduced efficiency. When the compressor blew I needed a new one, one went the new R134a compressor and I've an even less efficient A/C now!

My other drives, 2004 Mazda 3 SP23 and 2010 Forester Diesel use R134a as standard.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:28 am

Propane (LPG) is an awesome refrigerant gas! Also, be aware AC units were installed at the dealer or after that too, and they were not all the same, same brand , same parts layout exactly etc. An eg of this is some used the short sheet trick on the glovebox, requiring the back end of the glovebox to be removed and tavcked back as a short rach glovebox, others did not touch the glovebox.

johnno010684 · Post by **johnno010684** » Sat Oct 08, 2011 11:03 am

ahh interseting, thanks for all this help guys i really appreciate it! well my brother (mechanic) had a quick look at the compressor when i was installing my new spotlights and said it is seized. i will get some photos up in the next hour of the car and engine bay.