L series vs MY1800 buggy, what would be best

spike · Post by **spike** » Sat May 01, 2010 9:49 pm

yeah i read a lot of that stuff
but i wasnt sure if you were building it to go like brumby runner.
id leave the roof on or re-welding it after putting the cage on.
for a few designs try the cams racing manual
http://www.cams.com.au
you could build it to that spec or below. scafolding i dont think is a good idea, but its your choice, ive seen a cage made out of the old style water pipe and they tried to claim it was legal for racing.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sat May 01, 2010 10:26 pm

non its not going to be raced or anything like that, just use for some bush fun...
Yeah i don't think scaffolding is would be good but the thread is just to get all ideas so we can choose the best for our project bush basher:)

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun May 02, 2010 9:39 am

Guy.. I'd definately keep the roof on. If you want the top side of the bars welded, then I can show you a way at you can do it without cutting the roof off. As for the steel, I know it's not going to be raced so it doesn't have to meet CAMS specs but will need to safe enough, so I'd look at new steel. Cross bars won't really need to be used if the cage is pinned (welded in spots) to the pillers and the corners have gussets welded in, this means you can cut down on weight by not having to use so many cross bars.

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Mon May 03, 2010 7:25 pm

Any cage or roll protection has several basic parts, they are all there for a good reasons so I would not suggest shortcuts.
1) Main hoop - normally just behind front seats running up near b-pillars and across roofline - plates on the bottom of the legs.
2) Front legs - run from main hoop bends forward and follow A pillar down to floor pan beside feet - plates on bottom of legs
3) cross bar between front legs at top of windscreen.
4) Rear stays - from bends in main hoop (same place as front legs) straight back to rear strut tops - plate on strut tops
5) cross bar between rear strut tops.
6) diagonal between rear strut top and opposite main hoop bend.
7) side intrusion bars x4 running in a straight line from rear towers to from legs picking up the main hoop on the way.
If you cut the roof right off you will need to tie in front strut towers as well.

Link below is the build up of my car which has some pics of the cage in it - may give you some ideas.

showthread.php?t=8938

spike · Post by **spike** » Mon May 03, 2010 8:24 pm

yeah i know it wont be raced but what we use in australian racing is the best in the world, had a car the other day that failed. it raced in an internation seiries in europe.
preferably use seamless cold drawn.
build it to cams spec then if you get the urge you can go racing

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Mon May 03, 2010 9:17 pm

Well the shell is not worth much, Dont even think it could be lic for the road again:S

Here is what it look liked when i got it
vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=880

Its getting stripped to fix up two other brumbies and selling whatever i can to fund more suby mods:)

But yeah nothing has been done yet, Got some other more important project also going at the moment, Will see how it goes.

guyph_01 · Post by **guyph_01** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:55 pm

Maybe we should build something like this....
This guy builds the craziest Subaru buggy's i've seen!!!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... 61&page=22