MY rear brakes - metal on metal...ahhhg!

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:25 pm

Now having 2x Subies can be a good thing and a bad thing when they both deserve attention, and the old MY got my attention with that metal on metal sound when brakes applied.

Rear drums the problem, just caught in time, down low on the pads.
Had a quote for $80 for a set (4 shoes), is this what I should expect to pay around the traps? Wont get them until after the w/e

.

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 12:13 am

Paid $40 for a set (4x shoes) as the original quote by the parts interpreter stuffed up assuming they were a pair for $40. So thats now reasonable.
They are non exchange too, must be that they dont intended refurbishing an old model shoes now.

Back on the road, and test run to bed in, pulls up better, but still cant lock up the wheels? Does pull up hard though.

Noticed that these rear brakes have manual adjusters, never had to touched them before, so the initial setup clearance must be ok for life of shoes.

TIP: I noticed the leading shoe is worn the most for each side, would get more life out of these had I pulled the hubs off about a year ago, and noticed that it wears that way. You could reverse the shoes about to even up the wear and get more out of the set. That is swap the leading shoe to the trailing one.
Lubricate the adjusters, adjusting bolt and internally on their guides with anti-seize.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 12:27 am

I have a set of late povity pack 5 stud hubs c/w disks & hand brake cables here , free as well !

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 12:50 am

It's actually cheaper for brake bonding companies to purchase shoes in bulk from wrecking yards and refurbish those rather than run a returns program. So I wouldn't worry about the shoes becoming obsolete any time soon.

Personally I wouldn't bother swapping leading and trailing shoes. If you're going to the trouble of pulling it all apart you may as well replace the shoes with new ones. Fact: I've never had the drums off in my wagon. I've owned it for 5 1/2 years and have now shoehorned my EJ20G into it. The drums will be making way for discs though

.

Seagull, those 5 stud jobbies won't go onto an MY or L series any easier than a set of 5 stud discs. They don't fit, and making them fit would require custom hubs for a start.

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 1:23 am

there going in the bin then

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 2:14 am

I'll take the backing plates Seagull. Need a pair to send over to Bratgebah.

Tim wow I can't beleive you havn't had the drums apart in 5 and a half years! Mabey they're not working

tim_81coupe · Post by **tim_81coupe** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 9:29 am

seagull wrote:there going in the bin then

seagull · Post by **seagull** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 10:39 am

I pulled them out the bin for you

Hitchiker · Post by **Hitchiker** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:27 am

On the subject of L Series rear brakes, I just replaced mine (paid $50 for the set) but not sure how to readjust rears. There is a strange looking self adjuster cam there, but not sure how to reset when in place. Any ideas?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 11:50 am

Yeah Hitchiker, the L's rear end is self adjusting. To reset them you need to have the pistons pushed fully into their cylinders (slave cylinder), the cam gear will need to be manipulated to do this - I can't remember how to do it as its been a while. Once you've got the drums back on make sure you pump the brakes a few times before you try moving off anywhere

Hope this helps out

Cheers

Bennie