The ***ALL NEW*** AUSubaru.com.au Forums

If you want to repair this thing you need to solder. There is no avoiding it. At the moment you are assuming the relay is faulty. My suggestion is that it could be the relay, or it could be the circuitry driving the relay. I would check that the relay is being driven correctly by comparing against t...

actually before you do that.. have you verified the relay is being driven? Is there the same voltage across its coil as the other relays when it switches? The crack in the cover doesnt prove the relay is faulty. It could be the drive circuitry. swapping 2 relays would prove this pretty quickly.

had a quick look at this. see page 8 of: http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/nec/EP2-B3N3S.pdf unfortunately doesnt tell you much. N20 is a customisation code so could mean anything. Unless you can find a datasheet that explains what the N20 means you are going to have to figure it all out. I ...

how long until they rip the suspension apart.. definitely offroad only!

You will be able to repair the unit by finding an electrically equivalent relay then doing some creative wiring to attach it to the board.

Can you find specs on the OEM Relay that has failed?

If you can't i can help you work them out.

I have what looks like an epic head gasket failure on my EJ22 (coolant looks like runny peanut butter) so i'm in need of an engine stand to use while I reseal my spare engine. Anyone have a stand I can borrow / buy?? I just missed the Supercheap sale ($69!) did anyone pick one up at this price? Cheers

What is Al's opinion on all this? Have you discussed with him? He built the car.

Every H6 i have seen him do since this one has a vipec. I wonder if your issues are one of the reasons for that

i am specifically talking about slow climbs. if i get to a point where i am no longer moving forward and have diagonal wheelspin i keep the boot in and most times the rear end locks up and i move forward. if that doesnt happen i ease the brakes on to control the wheelspin then back down for another ...

and on diagonal wheel spin I also have a VLSD rear and my technique has always been to keep the boot in for a few extra seconds once i lose traction. most of the time i can feel the rear end tighten up and the car continues forward. VLSD needs to build up heat to lock up. Sounds like mega abuse but ...

i found the same thing as venom with gearing. When I converted from 4.44 auto to 3.9 manual I went from 2500rpm at 100kph to about 2900rpm at 100. I actually use less fuel now (but i put some of that down to the manual conversion) and have way better driveability as the motor is in its power band. I...

sounds like a great gearbox combo. I am interested to see how you go with it.

Be careful with gearing too tall. You might find yourself dropping back to 4th more often on the highway, especially when cruising at 100kph

these came in white also and are probably the "rally style" you remember

http://www.sunspares.com.au/sunspares_m ... SILVER.jpg

i have read a few guys say 400Nm is possible with just a tune. Thats HUGE in such a small car.
350Nm is a long was from the 180ish Nm an EJ22 dual range was intended to handle.

i dont know how well a dual range would hold up behind that much torque. you would have to be very careful with the right foot..

awesome pics mate

looks a nice clean engine. shame you will be covering it in mud!

if there is no timing belt guide then you have a motor from an auto. if you can get your hands on one fit it, but my auto motor doesn't have one and i havn't had an issue since converting to manual. (25k kms so far) s Bennie said, get rid of that plastic plate. They all fail eventually and its a mot...

if the plug is leaking replace it. if it isn't maybe don't bother. its possible to replace with the engine in anyway.

You should also check the inspection plate in the bellhousing when you do the rear main. Yours should be the early aluminium plate though and they don't seem to be prone to leaks.

just thought of 2 more i had to do.

o-ring where the oil filler neck bolts on

o-ring where PS tank bolts to the pump

if you are going to the trouble of doing all the seals then reseal the sump. i did all the seals in mine a few years ago with the engine in the car. 50k later the only place that leaks is the sump. It would also be worth doing the plug in the back of the passenger side head, the rear main, and the r...

amazing attention to detail. shame its an ea82!