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haha yer that helps..i was kinda wondering wt the cambelt was really used for and why you were bending bolts lol..

neway have u tried a rattle gun..or if you dont have one then a breaker bar and smack it with a decent hammer to try n shock it into coming undone kinda like a rattle gun would do

get a puller then yank it off and if you break it thne guess ull have to buy a new one

i wouldve had to say that replacing the clutch to fix it is just a waste of money really..
definitely dont seem like the clutch from wt ive read seems like internals basically

Update. ....Is it normal for there to be a delay from the time i lift my foot off the accelerator and when the revs drop? Its about 2 seconds usually on the cars i drive at work..mainly newer ones u give em a rev and theyll kinda delay in coming back down to idle..it is normal but not sure if thats...

u didn't mention release bearing but im presuming u put that back on.. it doesn't really sound like uve done anything wrong but it kinda just sounds like it isn't in gear. which is all i could think that was wrong after reading that.. or the drive shafts weren't slotted in properly.. could propably ...

could be bad gear linkages ie. not tight or worn out

and replacing gear oil every 100k is way to long imo. usually is recommended every 40k i thought

my parents have a 1996 2.5l ..... its a great car with no problems as opposed to my previous post things have now changed as it has just cooked itself..which could mean head gasket has gone as all the coolant was pushed out due to overpressurising i wouldn't say that means it has head gasket proble...

ive seen a slimline sub in box behind the seats of a Chev V8 ute import at work..
and also a 15inch JB's in the middle of the seats in a triton..but it took up alot of space and wasn't very practicable

90brumby wrote:so u only care bout his car and welder not him


tristan

or any of the bystanders haha

nah i was just kinda thinkin hed be safe if he wasn't the one welding it lol

guess its gonna be alot safer to take the fuel tank out first before welding or drain it. wouldnt like anything to happen to his car or the welder

the ones for p/steering come out alot further before they have a bend..which on my car allows it to go around the p/steering reservoir bracket

so basically the shape is different

if anyone wants a free thermo housing with gasket for an EA81 then ive got one.
only catch is that its for models w/out p/steering.
i didnt know that when i bought it so ive now got this to get rid of and waiting for the new one..
if anyone form perth is interested then PM me

jono wrote:i not tried this for rack acces, but would dropping crossmember on its bolts an inch or so help ? maybe also undo engine mount bolts and lift engine a tad

that should help i would think seen as things are gettin moved away form the rack which hopefully gives more access

why dont u take the old seal in with you and see wt he says wether it is a pressure seal or not.
i would think it would hold small amounts of pressure but nothing drastic

if you do it up to the correct torque (which is bloody tight) then i cant see a spring washer doing much except gettin squashed flat lol i thought they all had a huge washer on them normally anyway which can take the torque..
they shouldnt need locktite on them to keep them in if there done up enough

should be easy to do without the alignment tool neway but thelast time i saw an alignment tool was round 50 from repcos..but this is in Perth aparently the g/boxes are easy to take out on these old subis, accordin to my boss neway who use to work on them when he was doin his apprenticeship neways go...

they did sell theres with a 'high performance' coil set of plugs and leads if that in any way makes it worth almost 200

if anyone from WA mainly is interested there is apparently a Targa Brumby in Sunday Times for $5500 something like an 1986 with 190k on it

and if anyone else wants to know the electronic EA81 dizzy on my last post had a winnind bid of $192..was initially up for $80 lol

have u ever done a clutch before mate??

if you dont have a clutch alignment tool then youll need to take some care with gettin the disc pretty central enough for the shaft on the g/box to go back in properly

better hope he doesnt tell u the flwheels screwed aswell lol or itll cost a fair bit

ive put a fair amount of clutches into cars without machining the flywheel on them. usually just inspect them then rub them down thoroughly with some sand paper.

wouldnt no how much it costs for a machine but, so depends on how thorough a job you would want to do.