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still lurking ....

there was no Outback in the Gen1, and the Gen3 had different rear suspension. If you want to use the suspension components as well, then you will have to get a Gen2.

The gearbox with the better low range that Toonga is talking about was only in the SF Forrie.

First port of call would be the CAMS rulebook and homologation papers to see what mods you are allowed for the class of racing you want to do. You might be stuck with standard headers and turbo housings, and no intercooler.

I had a pre-facelift 99 Forrie that had the later running gear - 8 bolt gearbox etc

'02 SG Forrie stock with a pod and bike on the roof would get 9.7 l/100km on 95, and 9.1 l/100km on 98 mainly highway driving.

'92 Lib with a Forrie EJ20 would get 8.6 l/100km around town.

My Brumby used to drink about 12 l/100km

I'm pretty sure the rear discs are all the same, but you will need to match the rear calipers to the front brakes that you use. The piston diameter in the Forrie calipers is bigger than the non-turbo Liberty ones as the Forrie has bigger front brakes. The brake bias will be wrong if they aren't matc...

my kit for the rear

other way around. A +35 sits 10mm further out than a +45.

TPS is not adjustable on the Foz, but it is on the G1 Lib.

Maybe that's why it worked for me.

the screw on the side of the throttle body that the throttle linkage rests on when the car is idling.

I had a problem with my Forrie bucking in stop/go traffic, but it was the transition between closed throttle idling along and just opening the throttle. I fixed it by adjusting the throttle stop to hold the throttle plate slightly open, but not too far that the IACV couldn't control the idle speed. ...

36mm on the '92 ej22, 35-36mm on '98 ej20 (Forrie). Must be a bit of carbon or the casting is a bit uneven. Castings have slightly different numbers and markings. The cams swap between the heads, but you have to change the rocker gear too. The Lib motor has HLAs and the Forrie has roller followers. ...

I saw a Fusion head unit the other day on another forum that had a shallow mounting depth. I was going to try one out myself. I had a Pioneer unit that was mechless but was still standard length. Seems to be hard to find a short one. http://www.fusionelectronics.com/car/products/head-units/ca-ml650bt

80 series cruiser I believe

looks to me like it needs to be fitted the other way around. It would be a better fit for the opening and as it is it won't seal the water jacket. Is there enough meat in the plate to file a groove to clear that hose? Is there a thick spacer between the original carb and manifold that you could use?

Hmmm. I did the swap a while ago, so I can't remember if I changed the cam pulleys. I think they were the same. I will have a look tomorrow.

BTW, mine was a 92 EJ22 into a 98 Forrie.

did you change the pulley on the crank? The one the timing belt runs on, that the crank angle sensor reads. there should be a different number of teeth if it's anything like the swap I did.

I know it's not an EA, but I have done this on my EJ22. It is an EJ22 long motor out of a '92 Lib, put in my '98 Forrie with all of the Forrie manifold and ECU etc. Was a bit gutless down low, so I advanced the cams a tooth. Much nicer to drive now.

I'm guessing that the smell comes from not having plugged up the hole where the hose goes through.

I would be concerned that the heater core has a leak if it has been bypassed.

I just replaced the front one on mine and it was a 4 wire. I got a Denso the same as the original for what I thought was a reasonable price. Mine was a 22641 AA140, it is written on the sensor, so check yours to be sure. They are listed on ebay for about $200.

BTW, my car is a 7/2002 MY03 XS Lux