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The guys on the RS Liberty forum seem to like the Bosch one:

http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/sho ... plumb+back

You'll have to register to view the thread, which includes pictures.

My brother in law is looking to do a manual to auto conversion on a Brumby for an elderly friend. He wants to retain 4WD capability.

I found some posts on the USMB that indicate that the L series 4WD auto is a direct bolt - up. Is this correct?

But that doesen't matter, what I was wondering about was where did you get this intercooler craigus? I tried to search around a little but I couldn't find anything. As stated, it's one out of an early model wrx - we paid about $125 at a Jap import place, I think. hey Craigus, what piping have you u...

..should there be?

OK, I can't really keep saying the same thing over and over - check with a multimeter between pin 21 of the ECU and the negative side of the coil. If there is no connection, then the engine cannot and will not run.

no it was carby Well, then that wire won't be there unless you put it there ... Where did the ECU loom that you are using come from ? Does it have any spare wires? Where are you picking up ECU power from? the other thing i have noticed is next to the intake there is a plug that doesnt have anything...

i havent seen a grey thickish wire with a loop on it near the coil....

Was the car MPFI before the conversion?

The ECU has to know the rotation state of the motor to know when to fire the injectors. With the 3 plug ECU system, there is no crank angle sensor, so the only way the ECU knows what the engine is doing is by looking at the ignition pulses on the negative terminal of the coil. If it can't see that s...

Well, the timing has to be set correctly as well of course. Here's the ECU pinout:



Do you have a wire that comes from the ECU loom and connects to the coil?

Hmmm. Can't tell just from the picures. One of the yellow wires could simply be the tacho connection, and one must go to the distributor or you wouldn't be getting spark. I don't think you've got the "IG Pulse" connection. I'll post the pinout of the ECU (have to get out of Linux - long story) and y...

Well, are you sure the one I'm talking about is present and connected - it should connect to the negative side of the coil . I'm not sure what you mean by "(that goes under the dizzy cap)". It doesn't sound to me as if you do have it (apologies if I'm wrong here), and the engine cannot run without i...

cragius...that shielded wire from the ecu.... are you talking about where it plugs onto 4 terminals under the dizzy cap? No; that wiring is for the seperate knock control module - do you have that ? The shielded wire I'm talking about connects onto the distributor side of the coil (it has a round s...

Is the fuel pump running?

Have you got the shielded wire from the ECU connected to the distributor side of the coil? Without that, the ECU can't work out engine rotation and won't fire the injectors.

I would be strongly inclined to use the relays - the engineers put them in for a reason. You should be able to tie in the EJ22 harness just by connecting to battery, ignition, starter and earth.

Shannons seem to be excellent and they understand performance cars. They also have a low useage and ultra-low usage option for cars that are driven infrequently, which is quite a lot cheaper. They will generally also happily insure at a reasonable agreed value. What I don't know so much about though...

The plug on the top of the engine is the knock sensor. The four spade terminals connect to four corresponding points on the turbo distributor - they have to be in the right sequence to work, of course.

I usually replace them with a high tensile bolt with a deeper head. I also always use a six point air socket to undo them - there's much less chance of rounding them off.

That's the air conditioning compressor - does the noise only happen when the A/C is turned on?

Here's ours:



We didn't do anything fancy about cooling, other than fit a small bonnet scoop.

You don't really need to re-invent the wheel here, Jaycar have several kits that will do what you want, at various price points: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KA1758&CATID=25&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=347 http...

We did it this way: