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What do the brakes feel like with the dual master cylinders with no booster?

Last time Supacheap had a 20% off sale I about about 3 sets of oil change gear - Hopefully should last me until the next 20% sale!

discopotato03 wrote:If anyone can tell me how an RX sedan goes with wagon springs I'm all ears

With new king spring, awful. It was hard as a rock and the damper was only about 20-30mm below full extension. I had to replace them.

I think the AUS clusters don't have the oil pressure and voltage gauges. Mine doesn't at least.

Put a new rear main seal in as well while you have the engine out, you'll curse when it leaks later on!

Hmmm after 1000km I had 4mm on the dipstick.

I noticed my EJ20G uses more oil than my other Subarus but I thought it was because it was getting smeared all under the car! Now the leaks are gone I should go have a look see.

My brother had a WRX rack in his RX Turbo with no lift and it did bind while turning. I now have the same rack in my RX Turbo with 2" lift and it works great.

Totally different, it's far easier to just graft the EJ loom+computer into the existing wiring. From memory there are only about 8 wires or so that need to be joined.

I went from an EA82T to an EJ20G with no problems.

Since the "RX Turbo" doesn't exist in most part books I just call mine a Leone/L series. All of the "Turbo" specific parts on my car come from some other model now anyway...

AndrewT wrote:EJ18 would be ideal to avoid problems at the rego inspection because it's the same capacity.

In NSW you are allowed a 15% increase in engine capacity as an owner certified mod, so there are no problems going from a 1.8 to a 2.0

If you're going to do an EJ18 you might as well do the EJ20, I believe it's all the same, and no hassles with rego either.

Just get KYB shocks and king springs for a Leone sedan. That's what I've got in mine.

Although I do find the king springs a bit too hard at times.

Ok, I assume it wasn't working for anyone else but me? oops.

Try again.

I just measured mine - the actual tube part of the front section is exactly 400mm.

I've got a late model (2004) 1.5:1 box, only requires easy mods. See showthread.php?t=7748

If the engine is firing the light should flash. The idea is that you put one end of the light on the + of the battery to supply power, and the other end of the light to the - on the coil. As the computer fires the coil it disconnects the ground which should turn off the light. But on second thoughts...

That must be heavy?

If it's as good as it should be it will be interesting to hear what Mr Clarkson has to say about this one!