The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

I have it, I will send it to your e-mail.

I love my '02 outback. I havn't done a head gasket yet but if it does, I will be O-ringing it and putting in coppers. The low range could be lower but I havn't been stuck yet. Driving lights are a must with the later gen as they are great for oncoming traffic but crap for you. The only thing I can g...

1&2 should show up on the timing mark, 3&4 should come up near the 180deg line. Double check your test. The electronic disty is very good when set up right, but the bushings may be worn.....
New bearings for your Alt will cost about $20.

Was the light not firing for No2? or when it fired it was on a bare spot of flywheel? Alternator bearings or the idle bearing needs replacing. Take off the belt and spin it by hand and listen for noise, or use a screwdriver aginst the lobe of your ear to listen to the bearings, just touch the alt or...

My local auto elec sells them. As long as the diodes are ok, that's all they really need. If you have been pulling big amps out of it, check the connecting wires between the top and bottom plates as they will 'unsolder' themselves. email me on [email protected] if you need pics.

Running ethenol in a fuel injected car is OK, as the computer will adjust for it. In a carby car set for petrol, the ethenol will make it run lean and hot.

I buy my reg/recs for $45 and brushes for $5

They flow better and give better response. Cleaning and reoiling is a lengthy process. I've used them, but prefer the oiled foam type as servicing is easier. Check out the O2 rush or Unifilter products.

Yes I was refering to 'arc rods'. Arc is the easiest and cheapest way to join all steels unless your in production.

The basic length is the same. The tie rod mounting can differ in the L to the MY. The main difference is the MY has a yoke at the input shaft and the L is a splined shaft. The MY are all straight ratio, but the L's got a variable ratio on some models.

If your topping up the water regularly, it may be a blown head gasket especially if the two cylinders are on the same side.

If you want to do them yourself, I will lend you the tool to undo the locking nut.

without proper preheat, around 350deg, the weld will crack. If I was going to weld one up without proper preheat, I would use 18-8 stainless steel electrodes as they will absorb a bit of shock without cracking. some 302 rods will do it well. Pour it in and hope it sticks.

Replace your pumper valve. It is the thing that pokes out of the top of the carb and is connected to the throttle by a linkage. Gasmiser do a cheap replacement.

The reason for heating the carburettor is for leaner mixtures not just cold running. Hot fuel vapourises much faster than cold fuel and has less tendancy to stick to the walls of the runners. The hotter the air/fuel mix is to the cylinder, the leaner you can run it.

Early MY were 50amp, later MY were 55amp and Lseries were 60amp. You wont know unless the sticker is still on it. 60 amp were the LR 160-137 and LR 160-138.

cameron was busy with the family......and doesn't get on net till late.

I am a welder as well. I know what happens if you do a backyard job on high carbon steel. Before you cut and shut a drive shaft, think of the possibilities when that shaft comes apart at 100Kph. I am not saying it cant be done, far from it. But unless you follow strict pre-heat and post heat the wel...

I only recently went down this path to see the possibilities of making my own shafts. The steel isn't too expensive, the heat treatment is only $50, but getting the splines cut is the worst bit. I'm a fitter and turner and with the equipment I have, it would take hours to do. If you paid a shop to d...

Your alternator has fried it's reg/rec. Common thing to do if you have large draw.